TomCrump

I run 645s in almost every model that I build and fly. All but one, are larger, and use more powerful engines, than this Spacewalker. I have never encountered any difficulties, or reliability problems.

What do you base your torque requirements on ?

Here are pics of the 2 two Spacewalkers that I have built. One is 84". with a 1.60 twin. The other is 104", with a Sachs 4.2. Both have 645s and all flight control surfaces.

AA5BY

RJ..... If a gas engine starts balking... my first reaction is to rebuild the carb. One can save a lot of money doing so by buying just the pump and metering diaphragms online for about 75 cents per. The last carb kit bought locally was abt $16. I got a half dozen of each of the two common pumps and half dozen metering diaphragms for about what the carb kit would cost. I just did a search and bought from some chain saw supplier in Wisconsin. If you rebuild, go with the teflon pump... it is beige colored. The bluish acetate looking pumps don't perform as well and the traditional black don't last as long with modern fuels.

Most times I don't do anything but change out the pump and metering diaphragm and the problems are solved.

TunnelBill

My Feedback: (58)

Hi,

I am looking into building the SW with a YS110S. What do you guys think? Will the motor be enough if I keep the place lite?

Thanks,
Bill

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Very nice looking birds. I'm glad the 645s are working for you. They would not have been my choice for the 84" or 104". At approx. 100 oz inches of torque they are too light in my opinion. However, we need to remember that opinions are like elbows, everyone has at least two.

To answer your question ....I base my choice of servos on the size of the plane, size of the control surfaces, speed and weight of the plane, engine size, and experience. Itry to use enough torque to overcome "blow back" (or whatever it's officially called). I don't want the force of the airstream overcoming the servo. I chose the Corona 558s for my bird because they yield 130oz inches (at 4.8 volts), are ALLmetal gear, and the price is right.

Merry Christmas,
RJ

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the tip. I've been considering that. I have nothing to loose by trying. A new carb is about $40 shipped from BPhobbies.

Merry Christmas,
RJ

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

There's a fella on this thread who is using a 20cc gas engine to power his bird and they put out a bit over 2 hp. If your engine will do at least that, you should be good to go. I wouldn't expect unlimited vertical though. Your choice of prop will be important too.

I've witnessed how this bird flys with a 26cc gas engine and that's why I chose a 26cc for mine. The extra 1/2 hp makes a nice difference.

FYI....HK USA has a 26cc gas engine w/rear mounted carb for $127.

Merry Christmas,
RJ

Bund34

Hi. Spacewalker 84 inch  Wingspan plan drawing, in any format? Thanks for help. email: [email protected]

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Hi-

Can someone who has a Seagull Spacewalker 2 120 tell me what the size of the wings are?

Interested in overall length, width at fuse and width at wingtip.

I have the plane on order but saw some wing bags on sale that might fit and want to grab them if the wings will fit in but they may be gone by the time I receive the plane.

Thanks-

Larry

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

The specs for this bird are on the Horizon Hobby web site. Just do a search for the plane.

RJ

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks RJ

BUT I have read the specsI need the size of each wing-

Larry


Not on any web site I know of

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Perhaps you should be more specific. Usually "size" refers to wing span. Which dimensions, exactly, do you need?

RJ

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

OK RJ-

Perhaps this will help

This is for carrying purposes only (for a wing bag)

I need the dimension of one of the two wings not mounted.

I would like the dimension from the wing tip to the edge of the wing where it meets the fuselage.

I would like the dimension of the wing at the fuselage side from wing leading edge to wing trailing edge.

I would like the dimension of the wing at the tip from wing leading edge to wing trailing edge.

I do not need precise dimensions within 1/2 inch would be fine.

Thanks-

Larry

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Wish you had said that to start with. The fuselage is 6 inches wide. Subtract that from the total wing span (82.7), then divide by 2, and you've got your answer (approx. 38.35" each).

RJ

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Forgot to mention ...if you're looking for well made affordable wing bags take a look at the Hobby Pak web site. I'll think you'll like them. I have 3 of their bags and will be ordering more as I finish building my birds.

RJ

phakur

My Feedback: (13)

Hi guys-

Just got the box Kind of interesting made in Vietnam-weird for those of us who grew up in the 60's!!!But have to admit that the kit is very well built, the covering is in excellent shape.

A couple of quick questions.

This kit uses CA hinges-for this plane perhaps unusual-I would prefer to use Robart hinge points, but other than the ailerons, there doesn't appear to be enough "wood" to hold a Robart. What have you done?

Second I am going to be using a DLE engine-I have only seen one pic here showing how the throttle servo was mounted. Anything anyone can add? Any pics would be helpful.

Thanks-

Larry

AA5BY

Larry, one choice is to stay with a flat pinned hinge such as nylon Dubros. I don't have the Great Planes hinge tool, but I do have a multi-tool which does a very fine job of cutting ideal slots or opening the current CA slots to the proper thickness for the nylon hinges.

Cutting these used to be a real pain likely why CA hinges were invented but CA hinges I've discovered are not suitable for planes this size. A multi-tool or hinge slot machine ends that pain. I don't freehand this however, I lay the wing or surface on the work bench and in front of it lay a piece of wood that will hold the cutting tool to the proper height for centering. Then just rest the cutting tool on the strip of wood and insert to the needed depth. The depth I mark on the cutting tool using masking tape on the top surface.

The other issue is getting epoxy into the slot. What works for me is to make a tool out of some ridge plastic (I use windscreen acetate) slightly thinner than the thickness of the hinges. Make it the shape of the hinge plus a tang that will mount into a hobby knife handle. Drill several holes in the paddle to carry the glue into the slot. Between the glue paddle and the multi-tool... hinge slotting is now a piece of cake. Of course before inserting the hinge, apply a drop of oil to the hinge pin and after the epoxy starts to set, I take an eye dropper and apply one drop of lacquer thinner to the hinge and work it.

The last issue with flat pinned nylon hinges is they are ideal for a control surface such as a rudder that has to be removed to repair a tail wheel. Prior to gluing in the hinges, using dikes, cut the flat spot off the hinge pin. After the glue is dried, remove the hinge pins and install a solid hinge pin using a small music wire. On the end of the wire, make a 90 deg bend perhaps 3/16 long, which will be pressed into the stab to hold the pin in place. I sometimes use a solid hinge pin on all control surfaces as it sure makes removing the surface for repairs simple.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

+1 on the Dubro hinges. Much stronger for this size bird.

RJ

AA5BY

RJ... I've started work on a Spacewalker. After repairs were finished on an AT-6, a project was needed on the boards. Another was in mind, a scratch built for a longer winter effort but I've been informed that several job site projects are coming up and at my age after a day of construction trades, I'm too tired to build models so decided the scratch build will better suit another time. Perhaps I should get priorities straight and fully retire... but I like staying in the game.

Seemingly everything needed for the build is here except a pitts style muffler. After fitting a Zenoah G-26 ei, it became apparent that a side mounted muffler doesn't clear the cowl.

I'm not a fast builder any more and don't care if ten minutes or several hours a day are expended. I recall those early years of being hell bent to build a project and get it flying... no more of that here.

Interestingly, I've spent a few sessions at the flight simulator getting a feel for the Spacewalker and she floats with the best of them. With no head wind, one has to get low and slow on final unless flying the plane to the runway and that is not my style. I'll do just about anything to avoid giving down elevator on a landing approach. After you get some flight time in, tell me about how the Spacewalker does on those no wind days without any head wind on landings. Any one else with observations?

I might consider rigging the flap switch for spoilerons to kill some lift... then again, the Seagull Spacewalker might not fly like the one in the flight sim.

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

OK, will do.
I still have to work on the carb. I need to pull it, disassemble, and clean it and then re-install. I'm hoping that there's some junk in it and it just needs cleaning but, I'm planning on a new carb because I'm a bit of a pessimist.
I'll probably have the Yak finished before Iget around to the Space-cadet. Heck, you'll probably have yours finished and flying before Iget"round toit".

RJ

AA5BY

Not very fast here anymore about getting projects done. Guess more enjoyment is taken in the getting there.

The muffler won't be here for a couple of weeks or so as Jtec are not building anything up until after the first of the year. I did email back a few minutes ago and added snufflers to the order. It seemed to me that keeping this bird quieter better fits its more lazy character.

bikerbc

Thats the way these carbs return to idle Rowdyjoe..I dontknow why but mine is the same on my DLE 20..It take a few seconds to return to idle..You have to back off on your throtle early to compensate..Its no problem when you get used to it...There is a forum on here somwhere explaing it.. I cant rember where I read it but if you want I can try and find it for you...Its not 30 seconds but maybe more like 5 to 10..I thought there was somthing wrong too...My little Dle 20 is the perfect motor for the walker..It has lot of power..I would say more than a 120 for sure..I hardly ever run mine wide open...One other thing I found is that the biggest throttle response is on the first 1/2 of the stick..The second 1/2 dosent do much...You can adjust your throttle curve with your transmitter if it bothers you..If you have a computer radio...I have flowen my Walker all summer and have really enjoyed it...I am thinking about putting a set of skis on it for the winter..We dont have much snow yet..I am waiting for a nice dump to try out my Northstar...I havent flowen one yet and just finished it ..I am hopeing to fly it on our annual Newyears day funfly...I have a Saratoga on skis for a backup...Anyway these little gassers take some getting used to...There are a couple of the guys at my club that are switching over to the DLE20 and DLE 30 now after watching the success I have been having..I am interested to see how much more power the DLE 30 will have..My bud is putting on on his 1/4 scale Super Cub...Good luck

bikerbc

I have been buying cheap sleeping bags from wall mart to use for wing bags..They are working great for my 1/3 cub..My walker..My Tiger 60 my 125 pulse and a few others..They dont fit perfect but they are cheap..You can even sort of match colours...Just a thought...

SkyPilot101

On the slow throttle down on the DLE-20, the low end circut is too lean, richen it up very slightly, like a 1/16 of a turn or less. Don't overdue it, it just need's to be slightly richer. Idle down should improve afterward. It's a pretty fine line on the low speed screw to achieve the right ballance of smooth transition & quick idle down. The engine should be at operating temp while doing this, best to adjust while flying at your field than in the driveway, it's one of those tweek & fly things!

rowdyjoe

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the tips on the carb issue guys but, Ihave two other gas engines (DLE 55CC and RCGF20CC) and they both come down to idle a LOTquicker than the 26CC. The problem is difficult to describe in a typed message so, let's just say it's obviously abnormal.

Merry Christmas,
RJ

SkyPilot101

One more thing to check is the throttle plate inside the carb throat, DLE-20's were reported to lossen up, becomming mis-alligned & causing bad idle issues. Other than that it's the usual culprits, mixture, dirt, gum, air leaks, pump diaphram & on & on.