Skygate C-ARF L39 build thread and virtual manual
#76
MJ
Couple of points. The AB kit is an option that your kit came with, so it not cut out in the factory as some may not chose the option. Again not everyone wants the various ducts and openings.
Your kit was a Silver unpainted kit version, so usually chosen by people wanting to build a full scale JWM type. The various ducts are painted to match if like Simon you chose the factory painted ARTF version.
Can you explain your tailpipe problems, its not clear where the problem is. I have not heard of any others.
Yes I agree there should be more cockpit information...
Dave
Couple of points. The AB kit is an option that your kit came with, so it not cut out in the factory as some may not chose the option. Again not everyone wants the various ducts and openings.
Your kit was a Silver unpainted kit version, so usually chosen by people wanting to build a full scale JWM type. The various ducts are painted to match if like Simon you chose the factory painted ARTF version.
Can you explain your tailpipe problems, its not clear where the problem is. I have not heard of any others.
Yes I agree there should be more cockpit information...
Dave
#77
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Dave
The big L39 from Fei Bau is more complete and has all the items I commented on and yet it is less than half the pice of the CARF kit. Hopefully the manufacturer will take note of customer feedback and implement the improvements for the benefit of future customers. Otherwise I have no commercial vested interest.
The turbine cowl rear end will not fit the thrust tube no matter how much you sand it. My solution was to spline the tube to enable bolting on the duct. The outer casing of the thrust tube will not fit the tail end fairing no matter how much I took of it. Again I sliced the pipe outer casing to fit in the end fairing. See pictures.
I am still battling with fitting the aileron servos and the linkage to the aileron without cutting into the wing skin. I will let you know my solution.
Mssa
The big L39 from Fei Bau is more complete and has all the items I commented on and yet it is less than half the pice of the CARF kit. Hopefully the manufacturer will take note of customer feedback and implement the improvements for the benefit of future customers. Otherwise I have no commercial vested interest.
The turbine cowl rear end will not fit the thrust tube no matter how much you sand it. My solution was to spline the tube to enable bolting on the duct. The outer casing of the thrust tube will not fit the tail end fairing no matter how much I took of it. Again I sliced the pipe outer casing to fit in the end fairing. See pictures.
I am still battling with fitting the aileron servos and the linkage to the aileron without cutting into the wing skin. I will let you know my solution.
Mssa
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I can generally figure most things out, but I have to say how to get the aileron linkage installed on the L-39 has me stumped. I have the servo and linkage setup as per the photo. Have to have it set up at this end first as if you insert the pushrod from the aileron end there is no access or means to attach it to the servo with the reverse mounted servo. This way though there is no way to get the push rod out through the opening to where the horn on the aileron is. The manual seems to show the aileron as removable, and that would certainly make it easier, but from what I can see it is thoroughly glued in at the factory. Would love to know how others have done it!!
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I can generally figure most things out, but I have to say how to get the aileron linkage installed on the L-39 has me stumped. I have the servo and linkage setup as per the photo. Have to have it set up at this end first as if you insert the pushrod from the aileron end there is no access or means to attach it to the servo with the reverse mounted servo. This way though there is no way to get the push rod out through the opening to where the horn on the aileron is. The manual seems to show the aileron as removable, and that would certainly make it easier, but from what I can see it is thoroughly glued in at the factory. Would love to know how others have done it!!
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I thought perhaps it was one of those (many) instances on kits where the manual had not been updated to reflect changed production. I see it now, and it is in a quite difficult to access area of the wing, but subsequently have managed to get the aileron servo installed without removing the aileron. Took a bit of fiddling though! As for getting that screw in to secure the rod... now I am going to need to find a 2ft long phillips head screw driver to get it in through the wing root as it's too far towards the trailing edge to get at it through the aileron servo hatch. All part of modelling :-)
#83
I've made up a special tool for these jobs which I mainly use for the outer servos on Comp arf 3m Extra / Sukhoi wings to avoid cutting a hatch but it came in handy on the L39. I used the carbon tube tail drive from an Xcell helicopter and made a fitting to go on the output shaft that can then take whatever driver bit is required.
#84
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Not really, use a small but long screw driver and tighten them through the servo cover opening. That's how i did mine and that's why I think Philips screws are amazing since you can tighten them at an angle.
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Loving this kit though - the detail on the exterior is excellent. Definitely will be a model to be proud of.
Appreciate the input guys :-)
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Dave
The turbine cowl rear end will not fit the thrust tube no matter how much you sand it. My solution was to spline the tube to enable bolting on the duct. The outer casing of the thrust tube will not fit the tail end fairing no matter how much I took of it. Again I sliced the pipe outer casing to fit in the end fairing. See pictures.
I am still battling with fitting the aileron servos and the linkage to the aileron without cutting into the wing skin. I will let you know my solution.
Mssa
The turbine cowl rear end will not fit the thrust tube no matter how much you sand it. My solution was to spline the tube to enable bolting on the duct. The outer casing of the thrust tube will not fit the tail end fairing no matter how much I took of it. Again I sliced the pipe outer casing to fit in the end fairing. See pictures.
I am still battling with fitting the aileron servos and the linkage to the aileron without cutting into the wing skin. I will let you know my solution.
Mssa
Airleron linkage were fiddly, but I did get them in properly in the end, and without taking the aileron hinge out. The servo arm has to be WAY shorter than in the manual though, or in my photo a couple of posts back (which I originally did based on the manual). I ended up with it on a new hole drilled inside the inner hole on the arm. For the recommended throws I now use about 90% of TX range, rather than about 15% with the arm size shown in the manual.
#88
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Test flew my second L39 yesterday. I cannot believe it has been 4 years since I started this thread.
I have now sold my older L39 and the new owner is loving it.
This new L39 is built lighter, converted gear to electric and used Actuonix linear motor actuators and a full UNILight light set.
Flies great, is is 44lbs on the dot, 5L of fuel puts it at 51.7lbs wet and with the Behotec 220, what an amazing combination.
I do not have a video yet of any flights, but have a electric gear/door video and some picturess.
https://youtu.be/ckw3RTQNCC4
I have now sold my older L39 and the new owner is loving it.
This new L39 is built lighter, converted gear to electric and used Actuonix linear motor actuators and a full UNILight light set.
Flies great, is is 44lbs on the dot, 5L of fuel puts it at 51.7lbs wet and with the Behotec 220, what an amazing combination.
I do not have a video yet of any flights, but have a electric gear/door video and some picturess.
https://youtu.be/ckw3RTQNCC4
Last edited by Peter A; 10-15-2016 at 11:18 AM.
#95
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No, it comes as a pile of bits. It looks like it will be a decent cokpit when done, but still seems way over priced. I bought it because the time and effort to do it manually is too much. I deleted the post as when I looked back in the thread there were quite a few posts where people had photos of the cockpit assembled. Still... I'd be very interested to hear any details of how people have done it, what parts left removable, what parts fixed in the fuse etc., any traps or things people wish they had done differently...
#98
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Hey guys
first of all I would like to thank you for useful thread
This is my new L-39 and It's ready for maiden flight
Please I need CG confirmation
the Nose weight 1.94 kg (4.27lb)
my CG at the leading edge of wing tube but its little tail heavy without any extra weight !
when i add 100g it well be straight !
As you see it's 19.90 kg and I would like to be under 20 kg
any suggestion !?
Meshari
first of all I would like to thank you for useful thread
This is my new L-39 and It's ready for maiden flight
Please I need CG confirmation
the Nose weight 1.94 kg (4.27lb)
my CG at the leading edge of wing tube but its little tail heavy without any extra weight !
when i add 100g it well be straight !
As you see it's 19.90 kg and I would like to be under 20 kg
any suggestion !?
Meshari
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Mine is 52 lbs with Smoke, same balance point, Control setup as listed in manual and it flys great. Has a P200 which is a good power match for this model. You will enjoy this plane, its a trainer...
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Cg at the leading edge of the wing tube or a bit behind is good. 1.9Kg of weight in the nose it not good. Forget the CG meter, make a small jig and test the CG the old fashioned way, as long as you put the batteries in the nose you should need no weight at all. I have built 2 of these so far and the location of the CG is what I stated and never used any weight. Also i use Behotec 220 which is a light engine, not sure what engine you are using and how much it weighs, but still 1.9Kgs seems a lot of weight.
Last edited by Peter A; 03-10-2017 at 08:43 PM.