Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

Tested as suggested, seams that two of them are toasted, only one responds when I apply power direct to them, Thanks

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

ok so, when setting up my lg 15 in rc set, I put the switch in the gear up position I want, then go to next page and set gear down position and so on, I get a error message that says there must be a minimum of 100us between end points, tried every thing I can to figure it out but just can seem to get past it. What is this trying to tell me and how can I ajust it so it will work? Sorry but, getting ready to throw this thing into the wall and forget about it, can I get some advice here, thanks

Len Todd

I use a Castle 10 Amp Voltage regulator set at 7.5 VDC for JP Retracts. Too much voltage can burn the Retract motors out. Also, there are current limiters in the LGC15. They have to be set to prevent the retract from burning out. The limiters shut off the power to the retract motors. This is why you should not try to power the retracts directly with a power source.

I just followed the book that came with the LGC15 and I did not have any problems. I also helped with several posts in this thread. I have several LGC15s, and I have gone through several other retract controllers, all of which did not work anywhere near as well as the LGC15. The only landing gear controller that really works well is the LGC 15. I just push the slider on the transmitter up fully and all my planes come to a smooth straight stop. The second one you get can use the same basic program with just minor adjustment. It take about a minute to swap the program with the Sd card. Well worth the effort to figure out the LGC 15's programming.

Read this entire thread. Then re-read the book. Set the retracts and controller up on the bench and figure out what the book is telling you. Then do the install. Also, I am not sure the current version of JP gear handles 2S lip. I do know they will handle 7.5 VDC. Do not try to power the retracts directly w/o a controller.

Afterburners

I'm not sure if you've watched the video but IMO, it makes things a bit clearer than certain parts of the manual.

Gaspar

This just mean that the signal that the LGC15 receives from the RX don't change when you flip the switch. Connect a servo in place of the LGC15 and check that it is moving from end to end when you flip the retracts switch.

gaspar

Len Todd

The video is based on the GS200 which is matched to the Electron gear. Its program does not address the current limit settings for the gear operators that you need to set with a LGC15 that has NOT been match to a particular set of gear. Also, in my case, the JP gear does not like 2S LiPo voltages. The JPs typical operate good at 7.5 volts and burn out at 8.4. There is no voltage regulator in the LGC15.

Now JP may have fixed the voltage thing in their new gear. Mine was one of their first set of gear. So, 2s lipo created an issue. We also have had some folks burn up their gear with 2s lipo direct into the controller. Again, there is no voltage regulator in the LCG15. If using an unmatched LGC15, you need to consider the voltage your gear can handle. Several of us ended up using a castle 10 amp voltage regulator prior to the LGC15.

Also, with an unmatched LGC 15, you need to set the current limits so that the gear does not burn out. (The GS 200 and matched LGC15s do not even show this menu option.) These limiters in the LCG15 turn the gear motors off. The default limits in the unmatched LGC15 are set low. I ended up setting the gear setup on the bench and ultimately added more current to the limit settings after the install. But you need to make sure you have a high enough setting before you fly. It is best to ask the gear manufacturer what the current and voltage limits are. But most of these supplier jokers do not reply with answers. So, you have to either ask around or do a lot of testing, etc.

I got my unmatched LCG15 from PacificRC. Also my retracts were one of the first electric sets out there from JP. At the time, there was no video. I got mine set up from the book and this thread. Like I said before, I went thru several other brake controllers before getting the LGC15 and this is the only one that really works! It is well worth the effort to figure it out on the bench and then do the install. Once you have it tweaked to fit your model's weight and landing surface, I'd bet a steak dinner that you will never go to any other electric gear controller.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Actually for the limits on the JP just lookup Shane Yang on FB and send him a message.....he will give the limits for your gear....and a disclaimer saying his controller are better 😂 say thank you and move ON....

camss69

My Feedback: (46)

I’m in the process of setting up my LG15 with Electron retracts for my T1. Last night is the first time I’ve plugged in the retracts into the LG15 so I can reverse the trunion’s. I used the manual mode to command the retracts, first to extend them which worked fine but then when I went to retract them I couldn’t get them to go back the other way. I thought I had screwed something up with the reversing procedure and removed the trunion all together and it did not make any difference. If I reverse the polarity plugged into the LG15 several times and command the gear to extend and retract they will eventually go the other way so the motors on the retracts aren’t burned up or anything like that. I can’t seem to figure out why they just don’t extend and retract when commanded with the manual buttons. I’ve tried increasing the current cutoff up to 1amp, doesn’t seem to make a difference. Sometimes they will start to move and then stop, almost like they are binding but both the mains are doing the same thing, one I reversed the trunion the other I haven’t touched out of the box.

What’s the current firmware for the unlocked version of the LG15? I bought mine from PRCJ and it’s showing FW version 11H. I also don’t see anywhere on the xicoy page to download any FW updates.

Tip22v

I would like to echo this comment, I burned up three motors before figuring out that the JP brake controller limited the output voltage to 7.5v, since then I have installed a 10 AMP Castle BEC on the input side of my LGC-15 set to 7.5v and have not had a problems. I have two of these units in two T1 minis, both running the JP Gear. I also have a GS 200 with Electron gear, don't need the BEC with the GS200 and Electron gear, 2S lipo straight in is fine. -Tom

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Yap he’s right ⬆️

Agrav8ed

I contacted Shane Young on facebook and he told me that his controller passes through straight voltage. Whatever it receives, it sends. There is no regulation. I tested this with a voltage tester plugged into both sides of the controller and it was indeed the same 8.30v battery input and 8.28 battery output to the retracts. I also asked him if the controllers are all the same or different based on the size. He told me that they were. However, I am using larger retracts, not the ones for the T1 mini. I am using ER150 and ER200. According to Shane, the cut off voltage for these is:
ER-150: 1.25A ER-200: 1.8A

Tone

Tip22v

Tone,
I have three JP controllers that came with the retracts on the three minis I've purchased, all three of them limit the output voltage to 7.5v (verified with a volt meter, posted photos showing the 7.5v output in this forum a while back). I suspect that there are different versions of these controllers that behave differently. I also suspect there is variation in the manufacture of the motors because the very first set that I got (on my first mini) worked fine on a 2S Lipo with no regulator, but the second mini I got burned up three motors within the first couple of cycles of the gear, so that's when I investigated with my voltmeter and found the output limited to 7.5v on the JP Controller (others here have verified this behavior). On my third Mini, I did not want to take any chances so I just went with a BEC right from the start. Now, I bought my last mini about 2 years ago so I have no idea what JP has being doing since. However, since someone else has recently reported burning up their motors it's possible the problem is still around (although this person could have burned up the motors by not properly setting the cutoff amperage in the LGC-15) - Tom

Agrav8ed

I agree, there very likely could be different version of the controller. Also, as I said, I using much bigger retracts than the ones on the mini, so that also could be a pertinent factor.
Tone

Len Todd

The simple thing to do is measure voltage output on the OEM controller that comes with the gear. Then you know what voltage you have to provide.

For my setups I have found that the higher voltage just makes them run faster and it is the current limit is the critical setting. But, I also found out that the higher the voltage the more critical it is not to have the current limit set too high. Like I said before. Test on the bench, install in the plane and test again. Bump up the current limits as needed. Then once you have them working fine in the plane on the bench, then I bumped the limit up a couple tenths of an amp to make sure they work when flying. This way if you bang up the gear, typically they just won't go up when flying. Then it is time to inspect the gear to find out what you did to it or maybe lube it, etc.

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

I received my LG-15 and have been trying to get it set up. Followed the online guide done by martin pickering. the controller is showing gear up, gear down and so on. I hooked up regular servos to the gear out on the controller to test it but the servos don't move when I flip the gear switch, I also tried a retract, and still nothing. I have voltage coming out, but when I flip to amps on the voltage checker there is no reading for amps when I flip the gear switch, any Idea's on what I'm doing wrong or what I should check.

Len Todd

A servo clearly will not work. Servos have three wires. Landing gear operators have two. On my prolink gear operator, the ground is in pin 1 and the power wire is in pin 3 (i.e. normally where the signal wire is). The gear operator's connector may be configured wrong if its connector has a wire in the center position of the connector. If the gear operator's wires are in Pin 1 and 3 then plug the connector in so that the wires are reversed. Or if the wires are correct in the gear operator's connector. It could be trying to drive the gear operator against the stop and the current limit is being reached. Also, the current limit setting may need to be increased enough to drive the gear. Again, a servo will not work as there is no signal being sent to it.

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

OK Thanks, I'll mess with it later tonight and see what happens, cant test with retracts as I burned out the last set trying to set it up,, new motors should be here tonight. I will need a voltage regulator I guess as the controller is putting out 8.4 volts to the retracts and the jp retracts must still only handle 7.4

Len Todd

If you tried to run the Gear operator with a battery directly connected to the operator, then you can burn the operator up as the current limiters are in the controller versus the gear operators. No current limit typically = burned out operator.

The default current limits in the controller are set fairly low. I had to bump mine up to get the gear working. Or, ... If you changed the limits, maybe the maybe they are set too high causing the gear controller to stall at the gear operator's endpoint?

I set the voltage to 7.5 VDC with a voltage regulator prior to the controller. Then on the bench raised the current limits enough to get the gear to operate fully. Then I added a couple increments of current limit setting to ensure they worked in the air. Then, ... I installed the gear. It is much easier to figure things out on the bench before installing gear and operator in the plane.

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

Ok, So i'm in the middle of programing LG, How do the steps go for the gear in the controller for the T-1 mini. When I power up the LG-15 It says check switch, I have it set to cycle gear switch to activate, so I flip it gear down, gear up, now its ready to program the steps for gear, question is how many steps do you use for the t-1? I have Step 1-front gear door open, step 2, gear down, door open, where do I go from here, do I need more steps or just when I flip the switch again, will it gear up, door closed. if someone could send me there sequence of steps, that would be great, Thanks.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

It need to do all the step....but for the mini you don’t need them all so pass over them

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

Yup, Realize that, but question is how many and what orientation due I use? ie:Step 1 Door open, Step 2 gear down with door open, step 3 gear up with door open, step 4 door close and so on?

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

OK, so I'm back at it with this controller, everything seems to be working in the controller, IE when I flip the gear switch it goes through the steps from gear up through gear down and back again, BUT, I get no action out of the retracts, Hook my voltage meter up to one of the gear out connections and I have no volts or amps coming out the gear side, OK on the servo side, but nothing coming out for gear, Whats up with that, I have the amps up in the controller???????????

Len Todd

measure the voltage across pin 1 and 3 of the controllers output. Standard servo connections have the power on pins 1 and 2. My retracts are set up to power the operators vis pins 1 and 3.

Big Sky

My Feedback: (4)

No, sorry, Still not getting any power, I think Dirk At PRC Jets set me a bad one, Sure its not his fault, but wouldn't be the first time I got something new and it didn't work, we've all been there.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Is the gear moving with original JP controller?

I'm wondering if connecting servo into gear port would do damage???