MarkF

There rated to 2 amps, That means you can pull a little more. But there only rated to 2 amps .Fine for your RX but I wouldn't trust it for much else.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

‘Well been using them for a few years on the Retract and lights....works fine

MarkF

If a connector isn't up to the task, it will get warm or hot to the touch. That's the only real way to tell unless you measure the amp draw. It's funny when i see a gyro with 2 ec3 plugs coming out of it, I think, that looks over kill. lol

klaasgesk

Hi All,
I would like to understand where exactly do we need to be carfull with in terms of voltage. I plan to connect the unit to JP er-120 retracts and was wondering if I should be carfull with the battery directly connected to the unit (Jeti Power Ion 3100 Mah) or the current coming from my box (Smooth Flite 16) to gear IN port? I can tell that my box provides exactly 7.4v. I want to make sure not to burn my retract motors (Of course the motor setup is already done on the unit).

Afterburners

According to this, the 120's look good for 2S but please don't take my word for it. Check the chart halfway down the page that I link and come to your own conclusion or contact JP through the site to confirm.

https://www.jphobby.eu/en/retract-ge...-optional.html

klaasgesk

Hi All,

Does someone know the LG15 motors setup for the JP ER-150 retracts?

I have the correct settings for the JP ER-120:
Nose (Amp): 0.5
Mains (Amp): 0.5
Max. Time: 7
Unload. T.: 0.10

Agrav8ed

Per Shane when I contacted him
ER-150: 1.25A ER-200: 1.8A for cut off amps. The max time and unload factors are up to you but I would keep them short.
Tone

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Humm....150 would be T-1 size...if so this what I got from Shane he’s the dude for JP retract....

The retract of our ER-150 start max current is about 1.2A. the working current is about 0.8A.
not suggest to use with other brand controller

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

‘Now that’s funny, I still got his message.....I copy and paste to my post.....

demolish

Any insight to what I'm doing wrong here would be greatly appreciated.

I'm trying to get my new LGC 15 working right but I'm wondering if the gyro is borked or something.

On the main screen, when I apply brakes, you can see that one brake is applied significantly harder then the other. This occurs on startup, after plugging in the power and no yawing has occurred. I've been very careful to make sure I don't move the plane at all. The brake limit on both sides is the same.

Also, heading hold or proportional doesn't appear to change the behavior, I would have thought HH would try to return the plane to a heading but it does not, just applies the brake for a second and reverts to the previous state vs holding in that state until the plane is back on the heading. That's not how HH works on my helis. So maybe I have two problems, I don't know.

If I set the brake gyro to 0, of course it shows the bars even. It's like gyro is not re-centering.

Len Todd

I attached a file that lists what I used initially to set the the LGC15 initially in my Ultra Flash. Once I got out to the field I did some minor tweaking. But this setup worked just fine.

You may want to consider resetting it and starting from scratch. Your gains and nose wheel directions could be different.

I think I wound up with it set to proportional. I will check that tomorrow at the field and get back to you.

Also attached are the final setting for my T-1

demolish

double post

demolish

Thanks.

I did not see a factory reset option anywhere. But I did go over it one screen at a time.

You'll see in the below video how the brake gyro appears to be thinking there is yaw but there is not. Right before the video, I literally just plugged it in. I also go through the config.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/M3V4M1rR8TFEqhB98

demolish

Here is a little bit better video since that last one was terrible. Notice HH mode on.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PZyRFzZrejQVWAfD9

Len Todd

This one is a bit different from mine. I have one that was not programmed for a specific model. But they basically work the same. There are just some extra features that are allowed when you get one that is not programmed for a specific set of gear. However, ...

The gyro is working. As you change the orientation of the deck, you can see the LGC trying to steer using the brakes. That is what it is supposed to do. Also, once the unit is initialized, it looks like the braking signal is dropping back to zero.

Have you monitored the Brake PWM signal coming from the Rxer into the LGC? It would be interesting to know what the PWM signal was when you see the LCG responding unexpectedly. But, once it is on, the Gyro is controlling the braking as you turn the deck. That is what you want. I did notice that one time it looked like you had so much brake on the one side that the brake would probably have locked up. I took mine out to the field and run it up and down the runway to get the brakes adjusted so that they did not lock up. I have found that each plane's brakes are a little different and it take some final tweaking to get it right for each plane. But once the LGC gets dialed in, all I do is push the slider all the way forward and the plane comes to a nice smooth stop all by it self. No more brake dancing and it is a nice straight stop. Time to take that plane out to a straight runway and do some tweaking.

demolish

I agree, it is supposed to attempt to steer, however it's attempting to steer before I even move the deck. Also, after I move the deck, it is not performing as if HH mode is on. As in attempting to correct until the correction is made. It attempts sometimes, sometimes it holds it, sometimes it doesn't. I would expect it to behave like this one: . Notice how it attempts to hold the correction until the correction is made. Mine is just randomly doing whatever it wants.

**Editing because I linked the wrong time in the video **

demolish

So I decided to do some taxi testing just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind, it wants to make left circles any time the gyro and the brakes is on. I can get somewhat straight braking without the gryo. That matches what I see in the LGC screen where it is always applying more brake on the left. I'm guessing the MEMS gyro is just borked and always sensing a turn to the right and it's trying to always correct.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Just a taught, I did that mistake once…..I had my cortex pro fighting the GS-200……was doing something similar, (I taught the CP wasn’t set for the Steering)

demolish

I don't have any other gyro in the plane.

I really appreciate your guys' help. I may just have to replace it.

Len Todd

I would contact Gaspar or Dirk, if that LGC actually came with a T-One.

jvaliensi

My Feedback: (1)

Hi,
Does the LGC-15 make the brakes of JP gear perform better, as in a bit modulation?

Afterburners

Yes, it pulses the brakes like an anti lock system and has gyroscopic control to keep the plane straight when braking.

Len Todd

I have used both. the LGC15 is by far better!

demolish

Replaced the LGC. The new one seems to be acting right.

Do you guys run the "serv. off" setting to keep the door servo's from getting hot? Do your doors come open in flight if you do?

When the nose door servo holds the door closed, it gets hots, 130 degrees in 10 minutes to be exact. There is no binding, its simply holding the door up. I can actually push the door closed a bit more with my hand and the servo shuts up and cools off. Cycle that door again though and its back to egg frying time. I've looked over this thing for about 6 hours, its literally just the tiny bit of weight from that door. I got the Accutorq 110 on it.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

Either the servo is not up to part, meaning might be defective or the torque mention by the factory is not really true…..or the arm is too long, I normally try to get the highest resolution (sometime difficult for doors depending on geometry)