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Giant Model Products Introduces a 50cc GeeBee R3 ARF

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Giant Model Products Introduces a 50cc GeeBee R3 ARF

Old 06-11-2014, 07:43 PM
  #426  
gjhinshaw
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EASY there Vic!! Some of us are trying to help! I don't see any reason to blast anyone! I have "experience" in almost ALL sizes of the R3. Meaning.... 20cc, 30cc, 50cc, 100cc and now working on the 150cc GB R3. I gave you some places to go check and also to see where Jason Cowl tested them and said they were a "HANDFULL" to fly! The plane flies as GOOD as YOU set up the wheel pants on this plane!! You just can't slap it together like every other plane that you might fly or put together, this one will bite you if you do!! Enough said..... at this point!



Originally Posted by iFLYrc_Vic
Condor, you are the first person who has fessed up and agreed that this plane flies like no other plane out there. The 3-rudder explanation is probably "spot on" with respect to the reason she flies like she does. Misalignment will certainly be a factor in its unorthodox flight. I am grateful to you and thank you very much for providing a solution from experience with the same model. I have gotten very upset with all of the "back seat drivers" who derive solutions for this plane but have absolutely no real time experience with flying it and imply that we lack adequate piloting skills. Some of them mean well, but others just try to toot their own horns. Like the guy who suggest flying a 20cc plane on a 4S power system (good luck).

You have given me reason to put the motor back in it and give it one more try after wheel pant alignment. I might try it without the wheel pants but it is a royal pain to take them off.
Thanks everyone for your comments and help.
Vic
Old 06-12-2014, 05:44 AM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by iFLYrc_Vic
Retired my R3 ....... she is an official HANGER QUEEN....
I bet that Sportsman #7 is a hanger queen I love the way mine flys.
Old 06-12-2014, 05:57 AM
  #428  
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I might have gotten a little rude in my comments and apologize to all who may have been offended. I really appreciate the help from all of you.

As for the Gee Bee Sportster #7, it is the best flying plane I have in my hangar (14 planes). What a joy to fly! Definitely not a hanger queen - lots of flights.
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:04 AM
  #429  
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I've got a 30cc and mine flies great. I did notice the yawing at first when flying straight but after reading the thread I made sure the wheel pants were aligned and things got better. When I fly I am always using rudder for every turn no matter what plane I'm flying. Of course when I started flying RC I was only using ailerons to turn like most but when I got interested in 3D flying I forced myself do coordinated turns so now I don't even think about it. I also have a full scale decathlon and, again, you have to use rudder to turn. If you don't it feels all sorts of weird.
If you're not using rudder this airplane will probably not fly well for you for the reason discussed above
Old 06-12-2014, 07:58 AM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by pc2209
I've got a 30cc and mine flies great. I did notice the yawing at first when flying straight but after reading the thread I made sure the wheel pants were aligned and things got better. When I fly I am always using rudder for every turn no matter what plane I'm flying. Of course when I started flying RC I was only using ailerons to turn like most but when I got interested in 3D flying I forced myself do coordinated turns so now I don't even think about it. I also have a full scale decathlon and, again, you have to use rudder to turn. If you don't it feels all sorts of weird.
If you're not using rudder this airplane will probably not fly well for you for the reason discussed above
Thanks for the reply. It seems that the major issue here is with the alignment of the wheel pants and use of rudder for turns. I have 14 RC models in all types of configurations (Extra 260 to B-25). I often have to use rudder to make turns and sometimes try to make "flat" turns using rudder and opposite ailerons.

I used the rudder to turn this model and it kind of did a side slip instead of turn. I think that was due to misaligned wheel pants as discussed previously.

One other thing that may contribute to my plane's awkward flight is that I purposely mounted my wheel pants loosely with only one screw in the front and one in the back. I thought this would prevent damage to the wheel pants on a bad landing. This allows them to move from side-to-side and may accentuate the flight issues.

This is definitely a "bird of a different feather" and requires attention to the wheel pant mounting and some mental attention during flight.

Thanks again for your input.
Vic

Last edited by iFLYrc_Vic; 06-12-2014 at 08:07 AM.
Old 06-12-2014, 10:52 AM
  #431  
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Sorry I was interrupted by my wife and didn't proof read my post before hitting the post button

I meant to write "I bet that Sportsman #7 is not a hanger queen I love the way mine flys."
Old 06-12-2014, 07:42 PM
  #432  
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Vic....I don't know if when you say you "apply rudder it does a side slip" you mean that you are only applying rudder and not aileron along with it, but a side slip, ie yaw, is exactly what you would expect for rudder only. Ailerons only bank the airplane and the lower wing loses lift and the plane will start to fall in the direction of the downward wing but this action does not turn the nose of the aircraft towards the turn... As a matter of fact "adverse yaw" tends to turn the nose in the opposite direction of the turn so the rudder is really needed. . As I said in the earlier posting when you're flying full scale it is usually pretty noticeable because if you don't use rudder you feel like you're going to fall our of the side of the plane. If you "coordinate" the turn and get it just right the sum vector of the forces is directly down to your seat and it feels very secure even if the plane is hard turning in a 90 degree bank and directly on it's side. If I'm telling you something you already know so if I am don't be offended...Maybe this plane just needs more rudder or aileron than you are used to with your other planes.
...I would keep trying and experimenting with it's flight characteristics. The airplane is truly unique and brings a lot of comments when you take it to a fly-in. So it's worth it
Old 06-13-2014, 03:44 AM
  #433  
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pc2209, I appreciate your replies to help with this plane. You have nailed it as for the use of the rudder on turns. I do use the rudder for coordinated turns sometimes to keep the plane relatively flat to make my scale planes look scale in the turns. However, I do get lazy and bank-and-yank most of the time. I suppose I should strive to do coordinated turns as a rule.

I have a lot of planes and try to fly most of them several times a season. Each plane has its own flight characteristics but most respond to control inputs in a similar fashion. The major difference is landing (some float, some need speed, some need to be flown to the runway). As such, it takes a flight or two to "get back in the saddle" for each plane. Therefore I try to fly each for a few weeks, then move to another. I think putting this plane in that rotation would take more time to get it right when it comes up in the rotation - it takes a concentrated effort to fly it properly - practice, practice, practice.

I am just a guy who likes to fly good looking planes and enjoy the experience. Flying this plane will be stressful. I don't need stress when I go flying.

Thanks again for your expert input to the way to fly this plane. They will help me and others "get it right".
Old 08-04-2014, 04:20 AM
  #434  
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I decided to pull the wheel pants off and give it another try. It flew just fine! I did a couple of flights to test for the yawing action and it was nearly gone - just yawed a little on turns. On the 3rd flight, I did a few rolls and loops. I then did a Humpty Bump and when I came out of the downward vertical and leveled off, I lost all power. The battery Velcro restraints came loose and the battery slid backwards and disconnected. The plane glided autonomously for the length of the field and finally lost air speed and went in on the nose for a relatively soft crash. The damage was mainly cosmetic but some internal wing tube braces were broken. It is easily repairable and I ordered a new cowl.

With the discovery of the return to normal flight characteristic with the removal of the wheel pants, I will make the necessary repairs and start looking at landing gear modifications. I may even install some retracts I have from a previous project!

Condor, how did your retracts work out on the 50cc model?
Vic
Old 08-08-2014, 05:35 PM
  #435  
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Did anyone else have tight wheels? Mine barely spin on the 'axle'. (not I have the 30cc version) I cant pull the wheel off w/o breaking the pant. How are you guys replacing the wheels?? I'm considering dremeling off the 'axle' and putting a Dubro EZ Axle on...but that would also require me to dremel off a portion of the 2nd wire thats braised/soldered to the long one. Oy! Help please!
Old 08-12-2014, 03:48 AM
  #436  
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Hi hornetnz, just unpacked my 50cc version to make a start, been sitting there too long, same thing with wheels, would like to remove them to re-inforce the inside of the spats with glass or carbon, can anyone tell me where the spats weak areas are please.
Old 08-12-2014, 03:55 AM
  #437  
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Have noticed that the spats should NOT be fixed parallel with the end of the wing panels, they would be miles out if you did. Just received my gas conversion kit for the Saito 450 radial i,ll be putting in the bird, had to Dremmel out the cowl just for the rocker covers, love that 4 stroke triple radial sound.
I,ll be splitting some glo fuel tubing along one side & slipping over the rim of the top of the wheel pants where they sit against the wing panels for a smidge of cushioning.
Old 08-12-2014, 04:27 AM
  #438  
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To my ears at least, Saito Radials, sound awesome, especially the 450. 75cc,s of 4 stroke, in 3 cylinders, no mufflers, music to the ears.

Last edited by BANK N YANK; 08-12-2014 at 04:41 AM. Reason: duplicated same post twice.
Old 08-12-2014, 04:36 AM
  #439  
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Quick, accurate, way to align the spats. Measure the fuselage width where the wings pass thru it, the width between the plywood wing seats, of the fuselage, through the actual fuselage. On the 50cc size, mine is close to 40mm wider at the front, leading edge than the rear, trailing edge. Then put a fine pen line on the underside of the wing panel from the leading edge wing root, back to the trailing edge, BUT 20mm in from the wing root, at the TRAILING edge. You now have a line marked parallel with the fuselage centre line to work from, to align the spats with. Easy as.
Old 08-12-2014, 05:13 AM
  #440  
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Good idea for marking a parallel line. Could you take a picture or illustrate? Not sure I'm clear how you're measuring where to mark the line.

Evan-rcu came up with a wood U block to trap the wire gear against the pants right where the flying wires attach. Check out the last few pages of the 30cc thread.

Someone said a drop of oil will loosen up the wheel, but they've also said the 'axle' will keep bending and get softer as you repeatedly bend it back. I'm considering cutting mine off and using a dubro ez axle.
Old 08-12-2014, 12:57 PM
  #441  
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Don't forget that the wires go both ways on the spats! outer wing to spats, inner spats to opposite side of fuselage. Understand??



Originally Posted by BANK N YANK
Have noticed that the spats should NOT be fixed parallel with the end of the wing panels, they would be miles out if you did. Just received my gas conversion kit for the Saito 450 radial i,ll be putting in the bird, had to Dremmel out the cowl just for the rocker covers, love that 4 stroke triple radial sound.
I,ll be splitting some glo fuel tubing along one side & slipping over the rim of the top of the wheel pants where they sit against the wing panels for a smidge of cushioning.
Old 08-13-2014, 01:47 AM
  #442  
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Attempting to load in a couple of photos for you hornetnz, a first for me.

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Old 08-13-2014, 01:59 AM
  #443  
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I,m thinking the U/C wire legs will need to be able to flex inside the spats for landings, a little. So after re inforcing the insides of the spats with extra glass, i think plumbers type pipe insulation packed inside the legs will allow some movement, but will also give some cushioning effect, i.e. not directly transfer the side loads on a less than perfect landing directly to the spats.
re. the spat bracing wires, i,m going to attach them THROUGH the spats, directly to the wire legs & include some small, but strongish springs, in the attachments to allow a little give.
Old 08-13-2014, 04:38 AM
  #444  
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AHHH! Now I get it. thank you!

Originally Posted by BANK N YANK
Attempting to load in a couple of photos for you hornetnz, a first for me.

Old 08-25-2014, 10:48 AM
  #445  
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So I did last week what I really didn't want to, but had no choice. I cut a panel in the wheel pant to allow me to get the wheel off, and do the cutting & reinforcement that I needed to do. I used a balsa saw for the vertical cuts and a thin dremel cut-off wheel for the long cut. Once the wheel was out of the way, I cut off the fau-axle and started cutting the doubled up part in half so I can get my dubro axles on. I made a quick wood jig to hold the wire up and tight so it didn't move while dremeling, which is working wonderfully. Now my issue is I cant get the dremel wheel parallel to the doubled up joint to separate it. Might try my household side cutter.
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:47 AM
  #446  
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Just to let you guys know something about Gerry Henshaw at Giant Model products before you have dealings with him. Recently I ordered a replacement cowl for another airplane from him. The cowling came damaged although the shipping box itself was in perfect condition. See photo. I immediately contacted Gerry and sent him pics of the cowl and the box. Notice in the picture that the cowling is sitting on a counter top and there are office papers in the background. This is because I opened the box at my office [I am a physician] in front of two witnesses and never took the cowling home. Gerry tried to explain the fact that he had shipped me a damaged cowl by saying he had not inspected the cowling before sending it. Then later in another email, Gerry mentioned that he had "filed a claim against Fed Ex" [even though he knew for certain that the shipping box had not been damaged because I had told him ] Because most shippers would normally inspect before shipping, this led me to believe that he had purposely shipped me the damaged cowl so that when I shipped it back he could file against Fed Ex and get paid for the cowl. I contacted Fed Ex and explained to them that their box was not damaged and I didn't think the damage could have resulted from the shipping. Currently , from what I can gather, Fed Ex is probably balking at paying for the cowl so Gerry has CHANGED HIS STORY and now says he did inspect the cowling before shipping and he's ACCUSING ME of damaging the cowling. He also has REFUSED TO REFUND my Visa credit card. I have contacted Visa and explained to them what happened and , fortunately, I believe they will refund me. This is not the first time I have had problems dealing with Gerry but this is the first time that it was so obvious that he is a scammer. You can deal with him if you want but personally I think he is a small time operator with a limited budget and he as shown himself to be dishonest and willing to screw his customers if it is in his best interest.
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Old 09-01-2014, 04:16 AM
  #447  
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I am having a similar issue with another vendor. I feel your pain and frustration. I may post an informative message about my situation when I get it resolved.
Old 02-21-2015, 10:29 AM
  #448  
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ok how much for the r3 call me soon!!!
Old 02-22-2015, 03:16 PM
  #449  
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I have a 50cc GMP R-3 with Robart gear I will be selling soon. Only work done is the control surfaces have been installed.
Old 05-10-2021, 07:24 PM
  #450  
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Capt Midnight
I picked up from Gerry probably the last of the arfs recently ex canopy. The CD that came with it did not work or had nothing on it. Is there ay chance I can get a copy from you. Ill pay you whatever it costs.

Thank you

Rafeek
Saint John, IN

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