FenderBean

Hey Gun where did you put your vent or vents on the first one?

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

I have brass tubes pressed into some ply. I then glued that over the vent screens on the belly. That way the vents cant be seen. If you use a taxi tank that wont work for you though. I never use them so it works for me. I hate seeing vents and don't like getting fuel all over my self or spotter every flight.

I will probably install them tonight to show you. One thing I did learn is to use the rear vent screen. On my first one I used the forward one and fuel that was vented out would blow into the screen behind it.

FenderBean

Yeah hate the eye sore so trying to find a place that doesnt show them.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Sorry for the delay had some other stuff to get done. But I’m back on it now.

Here is the screen shot from my Xicoy balancer.

The official CG is 285MM back from the leading edge on the wing to fuselage joint. This CG felt great for me and I am not a fan of tail heavy aircraft so might have room to move it back but I liked it at 285.

the factory will say 255 to 265 and that is crazy nose heavy. If your doing twins you will need lots of lead in the nose. If you use the factory cg you might as well stick a bowling ball in it.

FenderBean

Hey Gun can you explain the light controller? Mine has three leads on it, one say gear signal, one says switch, and the third says control signal for nozzle lamp.
The controller has three large, what appears to be voltage regs and each has two leads/plugs coming from it. So do u plug the slime lights into the voltage regulator leads and the reds/green/landing lights into the pins on the controller?

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

to funny. I am working on that as we speak lol

i laid it all out on the floor and got it.

yes the nav lights landing lights plug right into the controller. Some of the outputs blink and some are on all the time.

the slime lights run on a different voltage so they have the big resistor and wires.

switch goes to the receiver.
AB goes to throttle. The AB output is the one lead on the output side all alone. It’s spaced out one connection away from the rest.

landing light connection goes to receiver.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

After having so many issues with the old light controller T1 made a new one. They made it very simple no frills but it’s supposed to be very reliable.

the rings are 95mm AirPower rings from Dreamworks . They work great with the stock controller. I did extend the end points and it will need to be on its own channel.

FenderBean

I have the same controller but mine is different from yours, I managed to figure it out. The one I have is simple once you figure it out, I plugged gear signal into gear channel, the switch is plugged into an aux channel or a switch. I plugged it into an aux channel and the formation lights come on, I guess the last plug is for afterburner rings.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

The new controller will work from 4.5 volts up to a 3 cell LIFE. So no need to use lipos anymore. That was the biggest complaint of mine. I hate having a separate little Lipo just for the lights.

do not use a 3 cell Lipo that will be to much. 3 cell Life is the max.

FenderBean

Thanks for the info, I was told higher so I was going to use a 11.1, I have a 7.4 I will use.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

The only thing using more power will do is cause the controller to get hot as it now needs to regulate a higher power to bleed off. The lights are very bright lights and don’t get brighter with more power.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Busy night.

got the rear end wired up and joined at the fuselage.

I will be filling the joint so it’s not going to come apart again after this. So really got to think ahead and get everything installed before it’s joined. Pipe must go in before it’s joined. So all the alignment must be done prior too.

pics are not loading. Will try tomorrow

FenderBean

Yelp, I and the low number of lights I want have to worry about voltage drop with the a lower voltage either. I have everything in mine and doing final setup/running wires, should be done by this weekend!

flejter1

This controller will easily handle a fully charged 3S LIFE and a 3S LIPO will push it to its limits. The controller will produce the same intensity from a 4.8V to 9.9V. The small button on top is to set the AB ring end point to turn on the light. I am told you move the throttle stick to the position you want the AB ring to come on and press the button. That should set the end point. Also depending on your radio system, if your landing lights are reversed you need to remove the jumper on the controller on the reverse side where the wires come out.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Ok guys. Talked to the factory this morning and got the issue with the rudders figured out. So when assembling the rudders I would assume they did all the right ones in a batch. They ran out of the splined shafts so they got a new batch of them. When doing a batch for left rudders they are slightly undersized. The factory will come up with a fix and send new parts to Dirk to send out to all of us. I would imagine it would be pressing out the smaller T shaft and pressing in the correct size shaft. Its going to be a little while until they can get back to work though because they are not allowed to work right now because of the virus outbreak. Hopefully in a few weeks something might be in the works. Thanks everyone for bringing this to our attention.

FenderBean

Glad to help

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

I used three layer of aluminum tape to fill in the gap, the rudder in nice and tight with no free play.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

I will do the same for now until the new parts come. I might even see if my prototype had the correct size and press it out and use it

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Doing the pain in the butt part now. Getting all these wires ran to the front. Got both sides done and tested the lightning system installed. It all works so moving forward.

the AB system on the light controller puts out what ever it receives so it’s not regulated like the other lights. So after some testing the 3cell LIFE does the ring best with no overheating of the bulbs. So will make a harness and tap lights off the ECU battery.

also started fitting the equipment. Was going to reuse the panels from the prototype but the internals on this production version are different so need to do some trimming and other fitting.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

For the main fuel tank. I think David was asking how to secure it. When I get a little further I will show how I did it. Basically though I have a service panel in the engine bay for charging , air and other things. That panel gets screwed into some wood I hysol to each saddle tank and the main tank.

David Jackson

My Feedback: (15)

I made a simple tray with a couple of wood blocks and a zip which was glued in place. The main tank easily slips under the zip and is held firmly in place. A simple, but effective solution.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Got one of the parts I was dreading done last night. Both missile ejector racks are done and working. Next up will be the dreaded gun door.

if you look at videos of the F22 there is a ton of detail inside the side ordinance bays. I have a friend sending my 3D printed scale parts for these areas. It is going to look good when done. After I try them out I’ll post pics and give out the contact info and pricing.

FenderBean

Hey Kris you mentioned using an inline restrictor on the mains to get the unlock to work properly. Did you just put the restrictor after the unlock T so the main cylinders fill slower, I tried that not work for me so far.
I was considering just adding another valve, the xicoy V1.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

I can’t remember. I had restrictors I see on my main up gear lines near the actuators. But I also see an extra one way valve i took out of the plane. I can’t remember if I used that or not. I’ve built so many planes since then lol.

im almost to the point of swinging the gear. I only have the restrictors so I’ll let you know

FenderBean

Thanks