chandley43231

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Here some pics

mikes68charger

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These are old pics right? You got to much tow out on your main wheels. You want aright or a tiny tow in

chandley43231

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Yea I did adjust this I adjusted it to set even hopefully will get piston ring Saturday and get this baby up beforehand operation

Robert_Ellis

I saw you had the 30cc and 50cc struts in. Any idea when the 100cc will be available?

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Well guys a said day for sure. I sold my 30cc GeeBee to my boy and got the 50cc with zdz80

well on my 3rd flight to day the plane wet out of control. Killed the motor thinking it was interfearance but it made it worse.

So I got a almost new. They were not on the plane wheel paints and the new struts along with a perfict rudder and elevators.

Hit me up mike

gjhinshaw

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OH NO MIKE!!!! That sucks!!! Is it really really bad?

mikes68charger

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Ya the glitching made it go down in some big trees broke wings cowl and cover

bigphil

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RIP Mike! Bummer for sure. I had a near catastrophe yesterday with my 30 cc too. It seemed a bit "funny" feeling on the 3rd flight of the day so I decided to come in and check it out. Was all over the place when I got on the ground. I must have had some rudder flutter, the rudder servo was loose in the mount and the rudder servo horn had the splines all worn out of it. The rudder would swing freely about 30 degrees total. Wow, no wonder it felt funny. Other than not being able to steer it back to the pits once it was on the ground, there was no other ill effects or damage to the plane. Whew!

pschulte

Well after reading these posts and watching the builds I just can't get the retract version of the gee bee out of my head. It is probably one of the sexiest planes I have seen. So yesterday my retracts arrived and today I am measuring and proping the plane up on boxes to see how it will sit with the retracts. They are a little shorter than the stock struts. The flight report from my friend that I talked it out of was very good. He says that as long as the wheel pants are perfectly straight it flies like its on rails. He was putting flying wires on the landing gear when I got it in my hands. It is the 50cc version with a evolution 58.

pschulte

I put it on boxes to approximate the hight the retracts will put it at. The boxes are about an inch shorter than the retracts. Now to get brave enough to cut a good set of wings up.

pschulte

Once I started cutting I couldn't stop. II have 1/8th ply rib doublers for the ribs I butchered and going to put 1/8th sheer webs in before sheeting the wing. Had to go flying today so that slowed my progress a lot.

EQ1

Retracts are a nice idea for this plane, I had the same some time ago. What stopped me doing this is the really large height of the undercarriage. This needs some real strengthening for side forces, which definitely occure during every day landing. I actually had one broken wire (flying wires, holding the gear) after only a slight sideways touch-down ... wonder whether you are thinking in this direction.

pschulte

Thats a good point. I took the extreme height into consideration. The retracts are shorter than the gear they are replacing. That should help with the landing loads. I am going to lower the tail wheel also to get a little of the positive angle of attack back. The ground stance will be like that of a ww2 warbird and not nose to the sky like a typical gee bee.

Bob Paris

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Hay Guys,
I know that this is a R3, 30cc build thread, but I just started the 20cc size model and wonder if I made a serious mistake getting involved buying this model. I was not able to find a 20cc build thread for a 20cc R3...or any R3, until I bought and started building my R3.

I now have the left wing finished, with landing gear installed. To be honest...this landing gear scares me for its really long and see little give to the design. One bad landing and its some serious damage (...was it ever fun getting all four screws tight on the landing gear...crazy way of attaching the landing gear). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to improve the landing gear and wheel pants, on the 20cc R3 ?

To be honest I wish I had found the build threads on the 30cc R3, for I would have bought the Robart landing gear with the 30cc kit. But I now have the 20cc model to deal with and will finish the build.

I've a RCG 20cc gas engine that is well broken in and running very strong. It turns a Xoar 17x6 at near 9K and will pull a 10# model vertical with a vengeance. This should pull this R3 with lots of speed.

For some reason the R3 just grabs me and love how it looks.

This build thread has helped me understand what I'm up against. I'm looking forward to the first flights, and our club field has a hard surfaced runway.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

pschulte

I was told that the wheel pants have to be straight or the plane will be unstable in the yaw axis. That is part of the reason I am going with retracts. A good way to keep them straight and help with the side loads is to put flying wires on it. I would build hard points in the wing that way they can stay hooked up when transporting. I elected to put on retracts. install is going well so far.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Pschulte,
Thanks for the input and to be honest...I like your retract idea. What length struts are you using...and what electric retracts ?
Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

pschulte

I am using a set I got from Hobby King. I think they are 10" struts. quite a bit shorter than the originals. I am also going to lower the tail. I have to go for a ten hour drive tomorrow so no building but will hopefully get things fastened down on sunday. unless weather is good. Then I will be flying.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Pschulte,
Thanks for the information...and I am starting to look at my kit's wings for retracts. I may just fly it stock, until I damage my landing gear...then go for the retracts. I've a set of Lado's I can install and I'll call Robart and see what will fit, that they can sell me. I've had real good luck with Robart and Sierra landing gear...the latter the best. But I like Robarts struts and I've used them on all my .60 size WWII models.

I really like the looks of the stock R3 airframe and landing gear...but giving it a good profile with retracts will take some thought. I'm thinking of installing my tail wheel into the rudder...its big enough to hold a tail wheel and not difficult to make. But making the moveable rudder's hinges strong enough to handle the landing loads is another story. The rudder is wide and deep and using Robart large hinge points just might work.

I'm really trying to buy one more set of landing gear wires and wheel pants for the 20cc R3...anyone have any forsale?

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

iFLYrc_Vic

My Feedback: (6)

Bob, I have the 20CC R3 but mine is electric powered. That should not affect the flight characteristics on take off, in the air or landing since the CG should be the same. You can see a boat load of information in a long thread on RCGroups at http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1501402 .

In summary, I had the same issues with mounting the landing gear - very tedious and awkward to install the straps. I made modifications to the landing gear wires (installed springs) and few other mods. I have a few flights on the plane and, in the air, it flies somewhat different than any other model. I do have yaw issues and that may be because one of my landing gear wheel pants is not exactly straight. I love the looks of the plane with the wheel pants. It is quite intimidating to fly and is not an everyday flyer.

Vic

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

Some are putting blocks in the wheel pants to keep the wire gear from moving. I have also got emails from customers that have put silicon on the pants instead of using screws. I have oleo struts for sale, I also have the 20cc GB wires landing gear. I just sold my last set of wheel pants.....

iFLYrc_Vic

My Feedback: (6)

It is a BAD idea to attach the wire gear to the wheel pants. I have two Gee Bees and I really like the BIG wheel pants. But I have learned from experience, that you sould allow the wheel pants to "float" to minimize damage that may result from a not-so-smooth landing. I just attach the wheel pants with one screw in the front and one in the back with a rubber pad between the wheel pant and the wing. This way, the wheel pant will move freely if a ground strike should occur.

gjhinshaw

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I really like that Idea!! I used silicone so it can move and give a little like yours.... A big glob does the pants good, I say...haha

iFLYrc_Vic

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In my opinion, I think the unusual yaw tendency of this model when using the rudder during level flight is partially due to the size, weight and vertical position of the very large wheel pants. Its like having a weight on a string hanging down below the plane. As you add rudder, the plane tends to turn left or right with minimal input of the rudder but does not change headings sharply - it skids or crabs.

On the other hand, knife edge flight is performed with very little rudder input. I think the wheel pant struts become airfoils and provide some lift in the knife edge configuration.

Large models may not be affected as much due to the ratio of the weight and size of the wheel pants to the total weight and size of the plane.

Just a layman's explanation of the yaw issues with the plane.
Vic

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

iFlyrc-Vic,
Nice idea about the thin rubber under the wheel pants. I'm going to do the same...and just use two screws. I have built up my left wing (I just started my build), but I can modify mine real easy...I just need to find some thin rubber and after this is installed, just use two screws to install them like you did...I may use clear silicone...not sure yet.

Hay gjhinshaw,
I would like to buy your 20cc wire for the landing gear, for my R3. Just let me know how much and where to send the funds.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Hey I got the Robart style struts and almost new wheel paints for the 50cc size for $110 shipped US