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Old 02-05-2014, 01:21 PM
  #26151  
FNQFLYER
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I found that when installing any glo / spark engine that if I offset the engine so the exhaust valve was at the bottom rather than the glo plug / spark plug as soon as I turned the engine over any accumulated oil was immediately expelled out through the exhaust system.
Old 02-05-2014, 01:56 PM
  #26152  
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Originally Posted by FNQFLYER
I found that when installing any glo / spark engine that if I offset the engine so the exhaust valve was at the bottom rather than the glo plug / spark plug as soon as I turned the engine over any accumulated oil was immediately expelled out through the exhaust system.

See my post #26151. W/a Saito that is 15° to the starboard side. That angle will still fit within most scale inline engine cowls.
Old 02-05-2014, 03:00 PM
  #26153  
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Originally Posted by Garthwood
J.........Good choice. I'm installing my 5 yr. old Saito 1.00 mounted at 45 degs. (not inverted) on an Aero-Works Yak 54 60-90 QB. I pulled it out of my GP UCANDO 60. I had it serviced at Horizon last fall. It's a great little engine. I wouldn't recommend to install this engine inverted. I had mine inverted but I installed the Sullivan on board glow driver running on a dedicated 4.8v battery, no more dead sticks after that. Very economical little powerful engine.
There are several "tricks" to mounting any engine inverted. One is to control the fuel flow to the carb when the engine is not running (I use hemostats clamped on the fuel line for that) and the other very important one is to lean out the low end enough to keep the plug hot at idle. That last one can be a challenge if you try it on a day when you are short of patience.

@Hobbsy, I have the carb off a . . OS with the remote needle. . and it is frozen solid. I soaked it in fuel, no luck. I soaked it in lemon juice (which worked on all three frozen engines - made the rust go away) and I hit it with brake and parts cleaner. It is still frozen. Got any great ideas for me? Oh, the brake and parts cleaner worked on the other 2 carbs....

What is PB Blaster and where do I get it? probably noted earlier and I forgot it...
Old 02-05-2014, 03:14 PM
  #26154  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I shot it up with PB Blaster and laid the piston on my shop heater and in about 10 minutes both the rod and the ring were completely free.
You heated PB on a heater? That stuff has some serious stink!
Old 02-05-2014, 03:26 PM
  #26155  
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Jim, I buy all that stuff at NAPA. I've been a NAPA shopper since is was 14 years old. Can't think of anything you haven't tried except the PB Blaster.

Barry, the place already stunk from the Brake Kleen, although I didn't actually spray it in my shop, the stink came in with the parts. I hit the rear bearing in the 1.00 with the PB Blaster but couldn't save it. For about 11 bucks I'll have a new engine. There aren't even any start and stop marks left by the piston.
Old 02-05-2014, 03:33 PM
  #26156  
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PB Blaster is available at almost any auto parts store.
Old 02-05-2014, 05:38 PM
  #26157  
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It's good stuff, and is one of the few chemical things I don't care to smell too much.
Old 02-05-2014, 05:53 PM
  #26158  
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Originally Posted by blw
It's good stuff, and is one of the few chemical things I don't care to smell too much.
I use it on the derailuers, cables, hand levers & such on my bicylces. Everything but the chains.
Old 02-05-2014, 07:01 PM
  #26159  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Jim, I buy all that stuff at NAPA. I've been a NAPA shopper since is was 14 years old. Can't think of anything you haven't tried except the PB Blaster.
So when I am out and about in the slush tomorrow, I will stop by the NAPA store and get some. I am desperate. Don't want to loose the deal.
Old 02-06-2014, 03:16 AM
  #26160  
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Jim, is it the carb barrel that is stuck, if so they can be a real bear if stuck because of old castor. That is one of the things I really liked about using Corrosion X as an after run, the CX didn't allow castor to set up. I keep thinking about going back to it.
Old 02-06-2014, 07:38 AM
  #26161  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Jim, is it the carb barrel that is stuck, if so they can be a real bear if stuck because of old castor. That is one of the things I really liked about using Corrosion X as an after run, the CX didn't allow castor to set up. I keep thinking about going back to it.

Yeah, that is exactly what the problem is. The previous user did not use any after run that I can tell.
Old 02-06-2014, 08:04 AM
  #26162  
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Hi Hobbsy,
Regarding your comment about Corrosion X, did you ever notice any downside to using it? Did the motors start easily after a 'treatment'? I presume that you're talking about the spray CX,

Thanks for any comments,

Bob
Old 02-06-2014, 08:29 AM
  #26163  
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Jim,

Have you tried heat after an overnight soaking in glow fuel? Either a heat gun or in an oven?
Old 02-06-2014, 08:53 AM
  #26164  
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Hey Bob, two strokes would emit a puff of grayish/white smoke and then just run normally, Fourstrokes, there was nothing noticeable since none could get into the combustion chamber. If there were previously dried castor in the crankcase of a fourstroke it would be gone after the first run when CX had been injected into the vent.
Old 02-06-2014, 09:18 AM
  #26165  
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Dave, it would also get mixed with fuel when hand priming, right? You would throw most out the exhaust too if using an electric starter before the engine fired.
Old 02-06-2014, 09:25 AM
  #26166  
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True enough, Diesel engines have a habit of getting glued by the castor in Diesel fuel, the Corrosion X won't let that happen. I have found that NAPA Fogging oil works pretty well and is considerably cheaper thAN the CX. Although a 16OZ can of CX will last a really long time.
Old 02-06-2014, 12:29 PM
  #26167  
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Thanks for the reply, Hobbsy,

Bob
Old 02-06-2014, 03:48 PM
  #26168  
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Hi dave am i missing something here?

How would corrosion x or any other after run oil help jim with his stuck throttle barrel in the normal run of things?

cheers pete
Old 02-06-2014, 04:03 PM
  #26169  
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It would have prevented it. How ya doin Pete? .I picked up a Saito 100 for my BTE Flyin King. I've got about six weeks to cover it.
Old 02-06-2014, 06:27 PM
  #26170  
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Good news on the 100 dave,should be like brand new with a new set of bearings.I never try and save front or rear if one looks or feels a bit dodgey.
Old 02-06-2014, 06:34 PM
  #26171  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
I use it on the derailuers, cables, hand levers & such on my bicylces. Everything but the chains.
I'm hoping you are not one of the lycra clad crowd of racing pushbike riders who seem to clog up the curvy hillside roads east of here..and man do they stink when you find a crowd of them at your favourite hillside early morning breakfast cafe'...not to mention the clatter they make in those shoes.Ducati's handle well as you know but dodging these people can get quite exciting.Is there a commercial bait you can lay down to thin them out a bit?
Old 02-06-2014, 06:50 PM
  #26172  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
I'm hoping you are not one of the lycra clad crowd of racing pushbike riders who seem to clog up the curvy hillside roads east of here..and man do they stink when you find a crowd of them at your favourite hillside early morning breakfast cafe'...not to mention the clatter they make in those shoes.Ducati's handle well as you know but dodging these people can get quite exciting.Is there a commercial bait you can lay down to thin them out a bit?
Full sized posters of Hustler girls visible just after fully committed to very sharp curves seems to be the best I know of.....
Old 02-06-2014, 06:51 PM
  #26173  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
I'm hoping you are not one of the lycra clad crowd of racing pushbike riders who seem to clog up the curvy hillside roads east of here..and man do they stink when you find a crowd of them at your favourite hillside early morning breakfast cafe'...not to mention the clatter they make in those shoes.Ducati's handle well as you know but dodging these people can get quite exciting.Is there a commercial bait you can lay down to thin them out a bit?

I do as much as my riding off pavment as I can. I even used my full suspension bike to access some backcountry in the Adirondacks hunting Black Bear after encountering one on a trail during a ride with my wife.


Most of my riding is on a "Hybrid" that runs on semi-slick tires that are at home on both the pavement & moderate trails.

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-06-2014 at 06:54 PM.
Old 02-06-2014, 07:11 PM
  #26174  
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Looks like a girls bike . Is there a place at the front for a basket ? Cheers the pope
Old 02-07-2014, 11:02 AM
  #26175  
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I find a manure spreader helps then stay to one side of the road and not run 4-6 abreast and blocking highway traffic.

Nothing uglier than coming over the top of a hill doing 55 MPH and have a gaggle these goofy looking turds in their body speedos hogging the road.

Now when they have to avoid running through a layer of Poop, they tend to stay to one side or the other Got to love country living.

I winder how my Saito 100 will work in the SIG 1/5th Cub.


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