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03-03-2014, 05:00 PM
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I've seen plenty of gas & diesel engines blow black smoke but never an engine burning glow fuel.
Of course I've never run one that was in very poor mechanical condition either.
Of course I've never run one that was in very poor mechanical condition either.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 03-04-2014 at 03:28 PM.
03-03-2014, 11:45 PM
I've always smiled when i hear the term "the engine self-destructed".It's like..what happened? did the engine suddenly grow a long muscular arm,quickly reach over to your workshop bench top and grab the largest hammer there and then enthusiastically beat itself to death,or there abouts? guess that rules the operator out 
03-04-2014, 02:53 PM
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No old fart, one they weren't my engines (most important point) and in both cases they came apart in the air. One was a dual plug 120 that lost the prop, and the resultant over speed did the rest, (The owner advanced the throttle as the a/c lost airspeed) the other I forget the circumstances. The best (for me) self destruct was a McCoy 60 on steroids with a pacifer (dummy here in Oz) fuel tank in duration. It launched and at about 50ft the cylinder parted company with the crankcase, in the process the conrod destroyed what remained og the crank case. I beat the guy (first time ever) made all the sweeter because I was using a Saito 65 (on steroids) which he rubbished the hell out of
03-05-2014, 03:34 AM
Senior Member
Open Up a Can of Whoop Aaarrzz, FA220 Vs FA180HC CDI
Lets open a can of woop aaarrzz here.. i'll run my 220 at 10% nitro with a mas 20x8 classic against your 180 hdbbcxyl on the same prop.Would be good fun,now i understand what barry was saying re smooth throttle applications in a vertical climb,nice rolling prop torque too.
No but I might just get 1 when I place my next order. Only a little over $12.
Interpolation says that it should swing a 20 X 8 about 7450 on 15%, 7750 on 30%. The 18x8 is a bit small, the 20x8 should get the engine into a good torque RPM.
I have 22x8 Zinger & a 22X10 Xoar
Interpolation says that it should swing a 20 X 8 about 7450 on 15%, 7750 on 30%. The 18x8 is a bit small, the 20x8 should get the engine into a good torque RPM.
I have 22x8 Zinger & a 22X10 Xoar
Hey Old Fart, I picked up a MAS Classic 20 X 10 a while back, but it’s been below 0°F for months W/no immediate relief in sight.
Hopefully the frozen tundra will thaw soon & your hot temperatures will moderate @ the same time giving each of us a somewhat level playing field.
How about we shoot for sometime around the vernal equinox or @ a time when the ambient temperatures are somewhat equal for both of us.
In addition to maximum RPM, I think we should consider fuel consumption as a performance factor. That way, if the engines are somewhat equal in power, fuel consumption will determine the winner.
Here is what I propose. 1[SUP]st[/SUP] of all we should start a dedicated thread in the Glow Engines forum, perhaps “Open Up a Can of Whoop Aaarrzz, FA220 Vs FA180HC CDI”.
Both of us will start W/8oz of fuel, preferable in the same Sullivan 8oz tank. Fill until the vent line overflows, start the engine & stop watch, then run @ high idle for 30 seconds, then go WOT. At the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] sign of surging, stop the stopwatch & shut the engine down.
Here’s how I propose the scoring:
Score 10 point for every 100 RPM of sustained maximum. Example: 7450 RPM will be given 745 points.
Score 10 points for every minute of run time. Example: 6 minutes 45 seconds would score (10X 6.75) 67.5 points.
This will give about 8% weight on fuel economy & 92% for maximum sustained RPM in this particular instance.
What do ya think?.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 03-05-2014 at 03:36 AM.
03-05-2014, 10:21 AM
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I've always smiled when i hear the term "the engine self-destructed".It's like..what happened? did the engine suddenly grow a long muscular arm,quickly reach over to your workshop bench top and grab the largest hammer there and then enthusiastically beat itself to death,or there abouts? guess that rules the operator out
03-05-2014, 11:11 AM
At the moment that strikes me as the funniest thing I've heard in a very long time, it made my day... I was going to post a question about how to obtain/replace the prop driver on an old FA 120 I'm having a stare down with, but I think I'll just offer it a large hammer.
Ken
03-05-2014, 04:40 PM
I thought about your post for a few minutes wondering how to respond.I think the seperate thread and the name is quite a funny idea and would probably need to be refereed by the moderators in the interests of harmony.Equinox is a couple of weeks away or next september i think,but as far as people here are concerned they may have to change the dates as our summers are getting later and later,and with more humidity.
I'm mostly laid back (read lazy) in my approach to modelling and am more into flying them as opposed to bench running or experimentation tho your proposition is interesting.The americas cup defence team should have had someone like you writing the rules back in the 70's and 80's when they were trying to keep the cup.Dennis connor would have welcomed you with open arms.
I'm mostly laid back (read lazy) in my approach to modelling and am more into flying them as opposed to bench running or experimentation tho your proposition is interesting.The americas cup defence team should have had someone like you writing the rules back in the 70's and 80's when they were trying to keep the cup.Dennis connor would have welcomed you with open arms.
03-05-2014, 05:01 PM
Senior Member
It's going to -20°F here tonight, but since we are @ 45° N latitude, spring will come in a rush. Usually by mid April we have moderated temperature & the trout fishing is picking up.
I don't see the moderators having a problem W/a sperate thread in the Glow Engines forum. I thiink this is all in fun & it would be interesting. I would be very gratified if I could make similar power to your FA220. I think the results will be very close either way. You have the displacement advantage while I have migher compression & stable, adjustable ignition timing that will allow more precise tuning.
Perhaps BLW will chime in as far as this being acceptable & "harmonious"..
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 03-05-2014 at 05:11 PM.
03-06-2014, 02:06 AM
Senior Member
03-06-2014, 04:30 PM
Dan, I think most of the arguments against castor are from the old days when people ran 100% castor, and FAI rules. But there is no argument that castor prevents rust and protects better above something like 475 F lean runs. Of course you are going to get some build up using too much and running engines smoking rich all the time. So, pick your poison. Some build up if you run too rich with 100% castor, or burnt up engines and rust if you run too lean with 100% synthetics.
If you go with the Cool Power "Pro Pattern" your up to 20% Nitro....$$$$
http://morganfuel.com/coolpower_performance_detail
The only down side to not using Cool Power is you don't get to take your engines apart and take pictures of all the parts to post on the forums.....
03-06-2014, 04:44 PM
Senior Member
Cool Power only has 17% lube. All the Saito instruction manuals tell you to use a fuel with 20% lube. Morgan just came out with a new Cool Power "MV" Muti Viscosity that's 18% lube.
If you go with the Cool Power "Pro Pattern" your up to 20% Nitro....$$$$
http://morganfuel.com/coolpower_performance_detail
The only down side to not using Cool Power is you don't get to take your engines apart and take pictures of all the parts to post on the forums.....
If you go with the Cool Power "Pro Pattern" your up to 20% Nitro....$$$$
http://morganfuel.com/coolpower_performance_detail
The only down side to not using Cool Power is you don't get to take your engines apart and take pictures of all the parts to post on the forums.....
The up side of running synthetic lube is that you don't have to dismantle & clean the castor varnish as so many castorholics advocate.
The upside to running CDI is that you need about 1/2 as much lube as when running W/the unstable ignition timing of glow ignition.
I am currently looking for a cost effective way to reduce the lube to 10%.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 03-06-2014 at 04:47 PM.
03-06-2014, 07:27 PM
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The instruction manuals also state that if you can't get 20% lube, a good 2-stroke fuel can be used & Cool Power has been spec'ed as acceptable since I bought my 1st FA150 in 1996. I have never had a fuel related failure & again you are not paying attention to what I post.
The up side of running synthetic lube is that you don't have to dismantle & clean the castor varnish as so many castorholics advocate.
The upside to running CDI is that you need about 1/2 as much lube as when running W/the unstable ignition timing of glow ignition.
I am currently looking for a cost effective way to reduce the lube to 10%.
The up side of running synthetic lube is that you don't have to dismantle & clean the castor varnish as so many castorholics advocate.
The upside to running CDI is that you need about 1/2 as much lube as when running W/the unstable ignition timing of glow ignition.
I am currently looking for a cost effective way to reduce the lube to 10%.
03-06-2014, 08:23 PM
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What the heck is a "carboy"?
03-06-2014, 10:17 PM
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Snt Tele, you could do like the smart arses do and dry sump your engines means you can run down to about a notional 10% oil. BTB I assume that all know that "20% oil" means 20% by volume, the viscosity has nothing to do with it. Me I use the Cool Power heli oil "good stuff"
03-07-2014, 10:42 AM
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Hey blw, what do you tnink about the "Open Up a Can of Whoop Aaarrzz, FA220 Vs FA180HC CDI" thread in the glow engines forums. There's a post above #26282 & Old Farts response a few posts down.
Just a friendly challenge by Old Fart & I accepted it, even invested in a 20 X 8 MAS Classic propeller.
PM me if you don't want to put out here on the forum.
Just a friendly challenge by Old Fart & I accepted it, even invested in a 20 X 8 MAS Classic propeller.
PM me if you don't want to put out here on the forum.
03-07-2014, 11:02 AM
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03-07-2014, 11:05 AM
Ken
03-07-2014, 12:30 PM
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Dan, if you don't mind my answering that, if it concerns Saitos, go for it, I do comparo's every now and then. I may do one tomorrow using the 1.00 and a 14x7 ZOAR, a 15x6 ZOAR and with and without a TurboHeader. I am down to only one kind of fuel though, WildCat 15% Premium Extra.
03-07-2014, 03:29 PM
Hey blw, what do you tnink about the "Open Up a Can of Whoop Aaarrzz, FA220 Vs FA180HC CDI" thread in the glow engines forums. There's a post above #26282 & Old Farts response a few posts down.
Just a friendly challenge by Old Fart & I accepted it, even invested in a 20 X 8 MAS Classic propeller.
PM me if you don't want to put out here on the forum.
Just a friendly challenge by Old Fart & I accepted it, even invested in a 20 X 8 MAS Classic propeller.
PM me if you don't want to put out here on the forum.
It should be an APC prop though.......just saying..........
03-07-2014, 04:02 PM
The instruction manuals also state that if you can't get 20% lube, a good 2-stroke fuel can be used & Cool Power has been spec'ed as acceptable since I bought my 1st FA150 in 1996. I have never had a fuel related failure & again you are not paying attention to what I post.The up side of running synthetic lube is that you don't have to dismantle & clean the castor varnish as so many castorholics advocate.
The upside to running CDI is that you need about 1/2 as much lube as when running W/the unstable ignition timing of glow ignition.
I am currently looking for a cost effective way to reduce the lube to 10%.
The upside to running CDI is that you need about 1/2 as much lube as when running W/the unstable ignition timing of glow ignition.
I am currently looking for a cost effective way to reduce the lube to 10%.
You could probably get away with it if you used Castor Oil.....
03-07-2014, 04:06 PM
Cool Power only has 17% lube. All the Saito instruction manuals tell you to use a fuel with 20% lube. Morgan just came out with a new Cool Power "MV" Muti Viscosity that's 18% lube.
If you go with the Cool Power "Pro Pattern" your up to 20% Nitro....$$$$
http://morganfuel.com/coolpower_performance_detail
The only down side to not using Cool Power is you don't get to take your engines apart and take pictures of all the parts to post on the forums.....
If you go with the Cool Power "Pro Pattern" your up to 20% Nitro....$$$$
http://morganfuel.com/coolpower_performance_detail
The only down side to not using Cool Power is you don't get to take your engines apart and take pictures of all the parts to post on the forums.....
I have been running all my engines on Wildcat, and they all are running perfectly. Its the only one that lists the oil content on the bottle when I was shopping for fuel. I run 15%. When I looked at Cool Power it doesnt list oil content, so I did not want to take a chance with it. The Wildcat is also $2 less expensive.