bob62

My Feedback: (28)

A big P-38

Rudolph Hart

Mosquito

the pope

Aerogard ????????????????????

Rudolph Hart

You'll get yours

ps a ww2 pilot once said that the quickest way to take evasive action in a p38 was to undo your staps and run around in the cockpit.

SrTelemaster150

Seems they made a boatload of Synchrospark modules in '97. All 3 of mine are dated thus.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I thought about a P-38, but counter I could never figure a way to get one to spin backwards. Now the mosquito is an interesting idea.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Yeah! No technical issues and it can be easily transported unlike the P-38.

taildragger1589

and of course.....

SrTelemaster150

Spinning a big block Saito backwards is easy. Just use a cam from the FA-300T left cylinder.

Keeping a propeller tight W/right hand threads on the prop shaft? Aye, there's the rub!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I always wanted to try this.

[email protected]

My Feedback: (29)

I'll put this one out there. Are the gas saitos as good as the glow engines they produce ?

SrTelemaster150

They are basically the same engines aside from the gas carburetors & CDI.

On the big block multi-cylinder engines, (FG-57T& FG-84R3) they put FA-180 bore cylinders W/he smaller FA-150 valves to allow more TQ at the lower power output RPM of gasoline compared to methanol.

Connecting rods, are the same part # on both the gas & glow engines.

I have my doubts that the gas engines will last as long as their glow counterparts.

taildragger1589

With the intense heat, I tend to agree, but the engines are much easier to rebuild than some of the others. (to me anyway)
So the longevity could be increased by checking the wearing parts at the end of each season.
(The connecting rod would be the chief item to watch)

I've been running my FG11 on the ground in prep for it's maiden flight this coming Tuesday, and I've noticed that (when doing the spit test) the exhaust rocker box sizzles and the intake rocker box doesn't.
I haven't gotten an IR temp gun yet so I'm not sure if that's good or bad, but that's slightly rich.
I guess when I do get it, the best place to point will be just in front of the spark plug.
BTW, I had trouble with the plug socket slowly slipping off of the RCEXCEL plug I got and as a temporary solution, I used a small automotive hose clamp at the bottom where the clip slits are located and it has been working very well.
Even after I change out the socket, I may keep the clamp in the flight box for emergencies.
But just as a follow up to the tree damage posts, The engine is running as smoothly as before.

Nick

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I have been using 3/4 hose clamps on spark plug boots for years. New or not, they give security and I really really hate it when a engine quits under load. Last 2 times that happened I ate airframes.

taildragger1589

Thanks for the confirmation!
I was sure everyone was biting their tongue to keep from remarking on the shade tree solutions.

Nick

FNQFLYER

For those interested, most of the full size aviations parts and accessories houses such as Aviall have those timing wheels. I think Aircraft and Spruce also have them.

jeffie8696

Whats the final word on the 1.00 ? I heard recently some concerns over vibrations? but again someone said he had eliminated this with a light prop or something? I ask because I am expecting one from my buddy Bruce at brucercengines.com soon , we did some horse tradin.

Rudolph Hart

Good news jeffie now look forward to some tuning advice son.. saito's don't vibrate half as much as two strokes for the most part so get your tuning ears on buddy.Hobbsy is at this very moment running his newly rebearinged 1.00 and testing a couple of props so this should give you a good indication of what you can expect out of your engine.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Jeffie- a vibrating Saito is a sure sign of being too rich, or of problems that need fixing like bearings or unbalanced props. If the engine you are getting has been broken in with a few gallons of fuel under its belt then you should look for a silky smooth engine that is probably the best running engine in your inventory. Whether the best solutions or not, you will probably find that the majority of Saito owners use APC props. You can expect idle speeds in the 2100 rpm range all day long with a little nitro. You engine could probably idle lower if you wanted it to. I have a 72 that did well idling at 1900 rpm. Saitos like nitro, but run well on as little as 5% (or none). 10% or 15% is considered the norm.

There is a lot of wisdom in Old Fart's first words there- get ready for a lesson in Saito tuning. Tuning is everything on a Saito. That means low speed needle valve tuning.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Okay, we've waited an appropriate period for that story. The natives are getting restless to hear more........

jeffie8696

Lets see, the 1.00 will make my 1,2,3,,, 5th Saito now. Cool.
I cant use APC props, personal reasons.
None of my other Saitos seem to have any unique vibration issues on any of the props I use. My most common fuel for my Saitos is SIG SynPlus 15%, now out of production but luckily I have a few gallons stashed. I am not a big fan of uber low oil content fuels, just my personal preference. I recently picked up some(like 6 gallons LOL) 15% Heli synthetic with 23% oil I will have to try that this summer. I will have to try the 1.00 on the front of my Great Planes Escapde 60, but it will have to wait its turn, I have several others in line already.

acdii

I have found the Wildcat 2&4S 15% nitro to be pretty good fuel, it comes 18% lube, and I add a bit of Klotz Castor to it for extra lube. I have noticed that I have to keep tuning the engine a bit in my OS 52 though, so not sure if its the extra oil, or if it needs a valve adjustment. I still have my Saito 100 GK that I have yet had a chance to start, and may consider swapping out the Magnum 91 in the Chipmunk with ti to see if I can get just a touch more power out of it for take off.

charlie1960

Heavy prop, say a 14x8 MA. I think its called a Classic, it has almost square tips.
And it will be sharp enough to shave with right out of that package.
A lot of guys don't like a MA, but its a great prop on the 1.00.
A heavy prop smooths out the pulses at idle and lets you screw the idle down a bit.
It will run great on 10% fuel. 18 to 20% lube is good.
As long as you get oil out that bypass tube, its all good.
But that low speed needle is very important. They aint bull****tin' ya there.

oh by the way....I wouldn't part with my 1.00

FNQFLYER

Since you asked. The Saito 50 and the crane. Place Cheras, site of the Malaysian Commonwealth Games. We had been using a site construction crane as one pylon in a day a racing and I decided to test my cub. SIG version modified with flaps and other stuff, cut the corner wings vertical but cut to short the resulting "tinkling sound" cost me SIN$85 (NTC hobby shop) for new bits. The flying through the house. It was a new one being built (on the same site but to one side) for te local district commissioner of police. It was waiting for the windows and doors to be installed and one of the expat MH pilots (who know all about flying models) got disorientated when the model was coming towards us got it turned around and inverted and managed to fit it in and out of the windows of the house. We left that site soon after because the workers on the site got sick of us landing and take models off on the corrogated roof of their dongas. It was a good place while it lasted

jeffie8696

I actually work as the service department in the local hobby store, I do a lot of carb tuning. Mostly RC cars/trucks.
Master Airscrew is my go to brand for props I think I currently have a 12X5(cant remember the series) on my Saito 50 in my Stearman, and lately JXF is looking good but I have yet to fly any. Taipan are out of production or at least not available here. I prefer something with a wide blade to utilize the 4 strokes torque and really grab some air. Here, had to share. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYIHNzYBFyo