blw

My Feedback: (3)

The .56 should be okay with a 12" prop, right?

TimC

blw, I use a 12x6 on my .56 with good results.

solafein

If you look at your lubricants closely you should find what is in them. Anything paraffin based is bad for our little friends, ie.. STP, Penzoil, Quaker State, White Lightning... Pariffin based means that there is wax in the mix. ATF is about the best after run oil you can use. It has 0 or 5 weight oil, rust inhibitors, detergents, viscosity stabilizers, flow enhancers, either synthetic or petrol based friction modifiers and the list goes on. You can even use it in your air tools, I do, that's why I have so much Snap On IM6 oil around. Dextron is simply a minimum standard and control for the finished product, Mercon III is just as good. Just stay away from synthetic type, all you get are the different friction modifiers and a $12 price tag.

loughbd

Paraffin does not mean there is wax in the oil. Paraffin as it relates to motor oil is an organic chemistry term that has nothing to do with paraffin waxes. It has to do with the bonding of the hydrogen atoms. Using a motor oil will not hurt a model engine. Marvel mystery oil or air tool oil are just as good an after run oil and they have the added benefit of being slighty flammable which makes starting easier if you load an engine up with it.

SaCCaL72

My Feedback: (1)

I have a Saito question guys:

I have a Saito 100 which only has about 3/4 of a gallon of fuel (30% Heli) through it and has been flown once for about 10 minutes. Other than that, it has been ran on the ground or on a stand. About a few months ago I was taking off for my Second flight (Texan) and without going into detail, the plane left the ground straight up and instantly cartwheeled onto the wing and nose of the plane at about 3/4 throttle. I was worried that there may have been engine damage so I took the plane back to the pits and started the engine back up. It seemed to run ok, no odd vibrations that I could see at idle or full throttle. I was relieved. BUT, and there always is a but, the other day I put the engine on a test stand to run it again and it seemed to vibrate a lot at an idle. Now my test stand wasn't bolted down but I had a cinder block on it. Could the drive shaft be bent or do you think it may of just been my test setup? How can I test for damage? What do I look for? Thanks in advance...

Brunito

My Feedback: (10)

Guys I am sorry for asking this question but is too many pages to read and I am sure somebody else ask this question already. I need to know what is the best aiplane for a Saito 91 thanks for your response and comments

Edge3644

My 2 Saitos 180AAc have about 50 hrs running time each. So far no problem. Only exaust valves on both engines were sticky
but initially I used castor oil mixed with synthetic mixed 1:5. Currently on synthetic oil only, both engines run perfectly.
Comparing to YS140FZ, Saitos 180 are enormous shakers, but definetely Saitos have more power.

johnS555

My Feedback: (27)

Brunito:

Any plane in the 2 stroke 60 class, 7 to 9 pounds......or a little each way.....Good Luck.........

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

Brunito,
What type of airplane do you prefer? Pattern, 3-D, sport, scale.....?

loughbd

Of course a saito 180 has more power than a TS140. It's over 25% bigger. That's like saying a a Ford 427 is more powerful than a Chevy 350. I would hope so.

Brunito

My Feedback: (10)

3D I just to have a Funatana 40 but after I crashed learnig how to do rool in circles so I am looking for something else

mstcitabria

Brunito,
Check out the TOC Aviation Yak Pro, perfect for the Saito .91. Really nice 3D plane and real good quality. Got a new Saito 1.00 in mine and doing the first flights with it this weekend..................
mstcitabria

blw

My Feedback: (3)

TimC,

I have used the same prop myself. I think that I originally started out with a MA 11x7 a couple of years ago and changed to an APC 12x6 shortly afterwards.

MoNKEyZQ8

My Feedback: (2)

Soon.. the powerplant and the fuse.

LEEMCCRORY

ive a 220 on my sebart 140 funtana, It rocks big time! it sounds like a petrol as it howls overhead. Its a serious engine for low huckin, I trust it completely.

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Hi William Robinson,

I have been reading alot about 4 storke engines backfiring and kicking props off [X(] Is there any way to prevent this ? One guy said he installed a spring pin so that the screws would not come off the crankshaft thread if it happened. Do you have any suggestions on how to prevent my prop from flying off ?

Thanks,

JettPilot

bfreee

Help guys, I have a saito 180, does anyone have on that runs good without a pump? No matter what i do the engine runs lean with the nose straight up. The engine is inverted in a QQ 73s, runs fine until I try to hang on the prop. Have checked all the basics a dozen times & replaced the whole fuel system twice. Tank is in front of cg slightly about 4-5 inches of fuel line to travel up when hovering. Does anyone have a similiar setup where a 180 runs fine off of muffller pressure alone. Saito says it should not need a pump. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

JettPilot,
I am no WR. However, in my limited experience, I have been able to eliminate the prop-loosening detonation in my Saitos by making certain that the HS needle is rich enough to accept full-throttle. This assumes no tankage, plumbing,or mechanical issues with the installation or engine.

loughbd

Don't run them lean.

LordSirOb

I guess you can add me to the club, I just maidened my MOJO with a brand new saito 72. I ran 4 10 oz tanks of Omega 15% (the pink stuff) and MAS 13X6 K prop on a test stand. First 10 minutes with the HS needle 5 turns out, glow igniter on, and rpms < 4K. 10 minutes between tanks and the rest of the runs I gradually leaned the HS alternating between WOT to idle to 1/2 throttle, etc. Lots of gunk on the test stand when all was said and done.

Once the motor was mounted on the plane, I peaked the motor (~ 8500) and backed off about 400 rpms, then I leaned out the LS needle for smoother transitions. After the first flight I noticed a definite improvement in compression. Over the next two flights the compression got much better, and the motor seems to be coming up stronger. But top rpms still seem to be on the low side for almost 3/4 gallons through it. I still have the saito glow plug in the motor, I meant to replace it with an OS F but forgot. Also, I plan on using 15% coolpower Heli fuel (based on LHS recommendations)

My question is this: About how many more tanks/gallons are needed before the motor will peak around 9500+ rpms with this prop? I was hoping to swing a 14X4W APC with this motor, but now I am not sure the motor will be up to it...

bfreee

By the way, please count me in as a member, I have a 100, 125, & a 180, but I might not be a 180 owner much longer if I can't figure out why this thing wont run right. Anyone that knows anything about a 180 please see post #3001. Any help, advice or shoulder to cry on would be appreciated.

bfreee

Lord, I'm no expert, but I've used the advice that i've heard time & time again. If you want maximum power from a Saito, run 30% heli fuel in it.
That's all I've used in mine since they were new & they run great. (100 & 125). Hope it helps.

BobPhx

Howdy-
Mine runs fine off of muffler pressure (slimline pits), below is a pic of the install.. Sorry I don't have any big ideas, sounds like you have tried what I would suggest, but here is a brain dump anyway:
1- no restrictions in fuel lines or clunks
2- no restrictions in pressure tap on muffler
3- I have had success with slimline pitts and stock mufflers. Can't speak for anything else
4- no intake manifold leaks
5- low and high speed needles properly set (yes they affect each other)
6- 16x8 prop is what I have had success with
7- Have had good luck with 30% heli and 20% four-stroke fuels
8- Always use OSF glow plug (better idle IMHE)
9- on mine I can go a half-turn or better rich from peak RPM and only drop 2-300 rpm from peak.. maybe richen up the high end a bit?
10 - I am at 1200 feet above sea level

Don't give up. I struggled a lot with a different problem (I didn't think the motor was running rich enough, too long to relay here) but once I got it figured out I love the engine.


http://www.goflyrc.com/projects/25Cap/P2110093.jpg

Good luck!
Bob

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Catchj-up time again.

First, new members:

278 jason35
279 SaCCaL72
280 Edge3644
281 LEEMCCRORY
282 JettPilot
283 bfreee
284 LordSirOb
285 BobPhx

More later.

Bill.

pilotpete2

Bill,
Thanks for the suggestion, the welding shop up the road was able to tig weld (stainless steel/argon gas) my cracked pipe for 5 bucks, also turns out the owner has been wanting to get into R/C for some time[8D] test ran the engine and all is well. I'm running it a little rich and getting 10,300 with a MAS K series 13-6, does that sound typical?
Thanks for the advice and regards to all in club Saito,
Pete