Rudolph Hart

Rule number one don't don't say sorry and do what dave say's,first time i saw an fa300 nitro twin bench run i wanted to stand back as far as i could,they got an uneven mean bark that can bite.Wind the low speed screw out at least a turn.Treat it like tuning a saito single and lean on the main needle when you peak the rpm.Don't hesitate to go lean and drop 3 or 400 rpm,i have a saito that gains rpm two clicks leaner after that,you won't seize a cyl that drops out it's still getting enough fuel/oil.If that goes ok and transition is good but you still drop a cyl during taxi out try an old ducati bevel gear tuning trick.At idle they used to hold the palms of their hands over the exhaust ends on a twin and fine tune the idle then.Use your finger tips about an inch away from the ends on both pipes and feel the exhaust pulses,which is stronger? they swing a big prop and instant transition can be a handicap at low and slow aeroplane speeds,ya get my drift??

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

There are two versions of the 3.00T On one of them the 3.00T is followed by an (L). The engine code for the 3.00T is V and for the 3.00T (L) is Z. You can't rotate the carb pictures to see if both have low speed needles. I suspect both have low speed needles as I can't see an air bleed screw on either. Clarence Lee did not test a 3.00, he stopped at the 2.70. If this is the case, set the LS needle with the HS needle fully peaked or you'll end chasing the settings around the moon and back The HS needle seat is fixed, so peaking it eliminates it from altering the mixture while setting the LS needle, honest.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SAI...oke_Manual.pdf

Manual

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Thanks everyone, for the information and your suggestions. Hopefully the weather is going to clear out for tomorrow in NYC and I'll try then,. Stay tuned

blw

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[QUOTE=JPal101;12373727]JPal- if you are going to enjoy your Saito you need to know that they all have certain idiosyncrasies that have a large impact on how they run. One is valve clearances. Another major item is adjusting the low speed needle valve properly....with heavy emphasis on the word properly and not like "my OS engines", or "like Magnums", etc. It's a Saito and will run, or not run like any Saito.

blw

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Pete- I've gone through this wondering process before. I would miss the S 2000 too much. It's a tradeoff really. How much would I miss having the expensive H2 that looks to be the ride of a lifetime vs how much would I miss that little S 2000 if I were to sell it. So, it's a gamble since Ninja H2's aren't lying around all over the place to just take one out on the road for a road test.

Rudolph Hart

The only shortcut i can think of is to test ride a kawasaki zx10,more performance than most people will ever tap on the road unless you want to get into ok corral territory.The H2 is a huge step up from there and generally bought by ex superbike riders who have the skill to wring H2's neck safely.I think they cost about 28,000 usd.Just to whet your whistle the next step up is the H2R track only version that comes with slicks only.Ready to ride fully fuelled wet weight is 475 pounds,they make 310 horsepower (230 kw) at 14,000 rpm and top out around 250 mph,rules open faced helmets out but seriously...with a few mates once a year we hire 175 lambretta scooters and slipstream each other around the back streets and maybe down a freeway fully tapped out,big grins and nobody loses their licence.

ps if you loved motorcycles as a kid it never lets go.Marriage and kids may stop you for a while but you always go back,or want to.If you do,buy a mid range something and ease back in gently,good luck friend.

pps jpal good luck settling in with the 300 twin,they sound awesome,specially if it's mounted in a scale aircraft.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

I took the engine apart (partially) and soaked it in denatured alky for 2 days. It still would not rotate a complete revolution. The 2 valve lifters on one of the cylinders were frozen binding on the cam. I used some Kroil penetrant, let it sit for a while, then started working the lifters in and out accessing them from both sides of the engine block. Eventually I was able to get them out of the sleeves. I polished them with some 600 grit Emery cloth then reassembled the engine adding some home made after run oil during reassembly. I mounted the engine to my Spacewalker and took it out back from the house and gave it a go. Started right up and after a little carb returning it returned to the beautiful idle it once had.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I looked and I found, Thanks much, Dave

Woops, I didn't intend to,have the Yuengling in the picture.

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

[QUOTE=blw;12374018]Last night I adjusted the valve clearances,they were a little loose but not out of range of adjustment. I adjusted using the gauge that was supplied and the engine ran much better today. I had 3 flights, one was a dead stick landing and the other two were fine. I adjusted the high end to lean to a point were it started to slow down then backed off to about 2.5 turns out. I have not touched the low end yet and that could be the reason for the dead stick. You say that the low end must be adjusted "properly", please explain the proper procedure.

acdii

Good! I was wondering if it would make it on time.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks again, those little no leak gaskets will,be nice on my older FA .40a.

Pal, the best procedure is to peak the engine and leave it peaked temporarily, then reduce the throttle to near idle. Then lean the LS needle about 1/8th turn,if the idle improves reduce the throttle some more and repeat. When you down to about 2,000 see if it will idle for a few minutes, then test the transition. Always choose the best transition over the slowest idle. Lastly enrichen the HS needle about 200 rpm and test it all out. Idling at 2,000 will guarantee that it will idle well at 2,200 for flying.

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Thank you, similar to the procedure I use on my gassers

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My way may seem a little booky or rigid, but if you don't have a plan then you'll be allover the place, so I come up plans. You hear so often where someone says, "I screwed around with the needles and got nowhere" with a plan you get where you want to go. That's my take anyway.

Rudolph Hart

Yes we do and with your help and others i gradually got over it,there are so many variations from the bench run to the setup you use in a flying installation.I've never had the good fortune to peak a saito on the bench and have that tune carry through to the aeroplane when you want to fly it.With the bigger saito's you carry a lot more fuel and the tank height increases so tuning for that inflight usually involves tuning the engine about 500rpm or more down on peak revs so that at the end of a ten or more minute flight it's not so lean that it quits on approach where you need it most.That last five minutes is the most fun to fly.What brand of lager is that in the background?

ps barry when we hired the scooters you always get one or two that run slightly better so rule number one was that at rest breaks you must leave the key to your scooter in the ignition.When someone said ok lets go it turned into a le mans start with people diving for the first or second quickest scooter.You woud'nt call it a fight but it was'nt far off a scuffle and all grudges settled over a few beers after

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Pete, that's a Yuengling, made in Pottsville, Pa.one of best there is. https://www.yuengling.com/

If using a regulator the move from the test stand to the plane is a zero change and doesn't require any rich needle for flying. A nice thing in my book.

Rudolph Hart

Jeez mate i thought it was bad when you were pushing boca bearings and marvel mystery oil for after run but this is the pits! chinese beer?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

You in your cups again Fart? Yuengling is a German style beer heck the name is an Anglicized version for the German word for "young person". Since the brand came up at I'll mention at the VFW (Stands for "Veterans of Foreign Wars" Fart) National convention I attended this year Yuengling was giving the Veterans free beer everyday. I didn't get to try it I was working and I don't abide while on the job.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

If you get down to all the details the way you and I break in Saitos is pretty much by the manual. Saito leaves a lot out in the way of instructions but common sense and universal engine practices pretty leave little to wonder about. You seem to be a bit more procedure oriented than I am whereas I will sometimes vary things more from time to time. When all is said and done, it all tastes like chicken.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Pete- the ZX10 is the sensible choice but it was nice to dream a bit for a few days over the H2 line. This all reminded me today when my dad got his first Mach III. He hadn't rode bikes since I was a little kid so he was quite out of practice. I grew up knowing him to stomp gas and brake pedals in everything he drove. Seeing him being careful for months with the Mach III was like having a new dad. But, he never laid one down. I guess I always considered him a bit too reckless having a kid like me around with his way of racing around but I've found some new respect for his ways after thinking how bad it's going to be when I get back on a bike. When the Mach IIIs flooded the market over here it didn't take long for all of them to have scraped engine covers, pegs, handlebars, etc. It sounds like you guys know how to have a blast over there with nice motorcycles and scooters. Doesn't anyone make decent radar detectors for the bands the Aussie police radar uses?

I don't run anything much over the limit without one of these: Radar and Laser Detectors | Valentine One | Radar Detectors. They are making them now to support a lot of the European camera and car radar bands.

Rudolph Hart

Nope i was sober and pulling dave's leg he should be laughing but if not let me know and i'll come up with something better.That was good of the beer company to do.

Good point about fuel regulators dave i have two but not used them yet.

Rudolph Hart

Barry i remember you talking about those radar detectors,and like regulators for big fuel tank saito's are a good idea i never get round to it.Your Dad deserves huge kudos for not firing the old kawasaki mach 111 down the road as everyone i knew did,more than once.They made triumph and bsa twins and triples look dead slow and i had to have one cause you could thrash them all day and they hardly ever blew up.I'll post a pic of an early H1A but mine was candy blue,well the first one was till i found out japanese drum brakes were worse than triumph bonneville one's in the rain.The radical port timing did'nt help either.Nothing much till you got to 4800 rpm then it was like...come to god.You never forget what feels like a grenade going off.So,i wish you well if you take it up again,you'll handle it easy peasy and the smile will crack your face

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Those H bikes had $10.00 engines and .50 cent brakes and handling. They had non dampened forks and pogo stick shocks.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Don't hold back tell us how you really feel about them!

acdii

I did a hundred+ in my F150 yesterday, does that count?