gjeffers

blwblw is right, a little castor holds mine real nice, just warm the engine and tighten

Harleyflyer

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks guys for the info on the muffler!

I have one other basic setup question. I see how the carburetor nipple would go to the line attached to the clunk in the fuel tank. However, what does the vent line go to? I see a nipple on the back of my Saito 100 and then there is a nipple on the muffler. I am not sure how this works. My previous experience has only been with a Thunder Tiger 46 and the vent line just goes to the muffler nipple.

Thanks in advance...I appreciate everyone's responses,
Keith

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The one on the crankcase gets a piece of fuel line about 4 inches long that hangs in the breeze. It is a vent.

Harleyflyer

My Feedback: (9)

Great...thanks torque wrench!! [8D]

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Ok, I'll chime in here. I have a 72, (2) 100's and a new 82. Do I get a number now???. As for Horizon service. Top notch! I sent out one of my 100's to them on a friday and received it back the next friday, 7 day turn around. I was getting lower than normal rpm readings. They put new bearings in it and readjusted the valves. They said my 100 had the bearings with the black seal in them??? Also said they have had problems with that type of bearing. My 100 is only a year old. I wonder if my other 100 has the same bearings as I bought them both around the same time. Guess time will tell. I just dont understand why they would put in a sealed bearing in a motor that gets its lube internally. I'm no Saito mechanic , maybe you guys can explain. Thanks

r1derbike

Welp, I only have one Saito .72. Won't mention my 6 other engines but they span from .46 to 50cc. Can't seem to get any more than 8200 or so rpm static with a 13X6 apc prop, with 10% fuel. Guess I just haven't breathed on it right, yet! ;-}

Running this engine on a .46-.52 style 3D aerobat, does nicely, but wouldn't call it overpowered.

Charles

r1derbike

Kaos:

What does your .72 tach with a 13X6 APC? How do you know the bearings are dragging, causing the rpm drop? (See my post above...)

I'm having lower than normal rpms on my .72. It is a late '05 model. I just got a tach today and its calibration is perfect, and I was a bit disgruntled to finally get to tach the Saito. []

Charles

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]Jett:

VP-20 or VP-30.

The VP-20 “Shaker” pump just fastens on, nothing to add, works. But it wont pump up a prime with hand flipping. Sometimes works with an electric starter.

The VP-30, once plumbed, will pump the prime with hand flipping or an electric starter. To prime by hand you need to plug the crankcase vent hose temporarily. The electric starter doesn’t need this.

You can’t use the plugged exhaust pipe for priming with either of them, the tank has to be vented to the atmosphere – no muffler pressure.

I always work to eliminate vibration, it just doesn’t seem right to use a pump that requires the vibration to be there. All I have used have been the VP-30 unit.

Speak true, they seem to work equally well, use whichever is easier for you.

Stubshaft:

You are in as member number 306.

ConchoHoncho:

Number 160? Almost right, you’re number TWO-sixty. Just missed one digit.

Kaos Krazy:

You are Club Saito member number 307.

RiderBike:

And you are number 308. I can tell you are a happy rider – in your avatar I see the bugs on your teeth. Try a 13x6 prop on your FA-72, or possibly a 14x6. The 6” pitch just seems to work best on 3D flight.

And finally, welcome to you three new members.

Bill.

r1derbike

Thanks for the welcome, Will! Been flying RC for 20 years, riding motorcycles for 35.

Piccie website below with my bikes (and other stuff) and Flight-Sim screenshots (G3). Just click on RC Aircraft - Realflight G3 Simulator!

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v402/r1derbike/

Charles

jbrcflyer

OK....I have 3 Saitos'....10 year old 150....still goin strong, new 50(NIB...never run yet).....but.....had a problem with a 91.
This engine, although 8 years old, does not have a ton of hours on it....I have it in my Stearman..PT-17....(can see a pic of it in My Gallery)...I only fly it 2 - 3 times a year at scale events. Took it out of winter storage.....fueled it up.....fired it up....got about 1/2 tank of fuel through it at "normal" operation mostly 1/2 throttle...to check it out for the season. Engine sputtered....and died....."Hummmm"...Fired it up again.....Idled ok.....advanced throttle....it sputtered and died....Light bulb in my head made me think to pull the valve covers ...and....I was surprised to see one of the two "lobes" that is cast into the head and holds the exhaust rocker arm....had "broken off". Valve clearance was and had been fine.....I think I adjusted the valves ONCE...early in its life.

I thought it was a strange failure, thought I would ask to see if anyone else has had this occur, and what they feel may have caused it. I have ruled out valve adjustment, as when I hold in proper position, seems to have correct clearance...certainly nothing excessive. I leaning towards "poor quality casting or weak casting" at that point.
I have returned it to Horizon for estimate / repair...(only paid $200 at WRAM Show years ago)

Any input??

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

jbrcflyer:

I have added you to the list as Club Saito member number 309. The more the merrier. Guess so, anywy.

Your broken rocker pedestal just about has to be a casting fault if you’ve never dorked the engine. I doubt yu’ll get any “Consideration” since the engine, as you said, is eight years old.

At the same time I can’t see the engine consistently running the tank halfway out before it quits. The broken pedestal should affect the engine run from the start. Your symptom makes me think more likely you have a pin hole in the clunk line, or maybe the clunk has just gotten disconnected inside the tank. How long since you’ve replaced the hoses?

Anyway, welcome to the club.

Bill.

Bone

Hello Gang,

I have been reading this thread with great interest about intake stacks on the Saito engines & the improvement in fuel economy that is obtainable. My engine is the 45S with the downward facing carb. This carb is flat across the opening & there does not appear to be any (obvious) way of affixing a stack. Having said that though, is there an intake stack for this carb & if so, how can it be firmly attached to my carb ?

From my observations, the 45 carb is the same as used on the Saito 50 engine.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bone:

You want the SAI50GK93 stack. Here's a bare picture of one from the Horizon site, a batch I just got, and a picture of one installed.

You will have to seal the gap at the sides of the mounting flange, I think the pictures will answer the rest of your questions.

Bill.

MaxStanford

Nice fingernails you have there William

Bone

Thank you Bill for the info - as they say, "a picture tells a thousand words".

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bone:

You're welcome.
-----------------------------
Max:

You are supposed to look at the stack, not my fingernails.

Haw.

Going to send me your cylinder head? Haw again.

Bill.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I have a Saito .72 that runs on Omega 15%, OS F, and turns an APC 13x6 around 10,600. I usually set it for 10,200.

cadconversions

My Feedback: (21)

Hey guys, I have a 1.50 and am only getting about a 4 1/2 minute run on a 500 cc (16.91 oz) tanks on 20/20 fuel. Is that normal? What's the best way to adjust the needles. My first 4-stroke.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

cadconversions:

Your 4½ minutes on almost 17 ounces with an FA-150 is definitely not normal for a properly adjusted engine. With 15% fuel you should get a few seconds over 11 minutes at full throttle. Using the 20% nitro it will be somewhat less, but I’ve never run any tests with fuel other than 15% so I can’t say how much less, but certainly more than you’re getting.

Two excerpts from Saito Notes:

Pinch test method
The pinch test is valid for getting close to the correct IDLE mixture, but doesn’t work well for the HS setting.

At idle a pinch of the fuel hose will give a slight rpm rise before the engine falls off. The final adjustment has to be done by checking how the engine comes off idle when the throttle is opened.

The HS needle must be adjusted with the throttle full open, slowly leaned until peak rpm is reached and then opened to get 300-500 rpm drop.

With experience and a lot of patience you can adjust both the HS and LS needles without a tachometer, but the delay in response of the engine makes it hard for many. So long as you take your time, waiting 10 seconds or so between adjustments, and make them just a little at a time, the engine can be tuned by ear.

The HS needle has no effect at idle if it is open far enough to run at full throttle, and almost no effect until you get Âľ open throttle. Since the LS has such an effect you have to go back and forth between the LS and HS adjustments to get everything right.

And the second:

Carb adjust
The flush initial setting of the LS needle was with the metal throttle lever. With the later plastic lever the flat of the LS adjuster is roughly 1/16" down at the factory setting - the thickness of the plastic at that point.

With the engine on the stand (if you can) peak the HS and drop to as low an idle as you can hold. then just start turning the LS in SLOWLY as the engine will take 5-7 seconds to respond. As you lean it the rpm will rise when you're getting close to optimum, lower the idle trim to keep it down. When you think you have it pinch the fuel line to check. The rpm should stay steady momentarily, then fall. If the "Rs" fall immediately you've gone too lean, and if the rpm rises before it falls you're still on the rich side.

When you think you have it, open the HS needle about one turn and go to full throttle. Peak the HS, then go rich to get your 300-400 rpm drop, and check transition in the normal way, trimming the LS to get it right.

Now you should have an engine that idles a lot smoother, and burns less fuel, with no decrease in power available.

PM or email me your email address, I’ll send you the complete current version of Saito Notes

And I put you in as member number 310 in our Saito aggregation.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

WRman, I for one do not use the pinch test, I use the blip method. I peak the top end then get the LS needle as close as I can to a good idle, I then blip the throttle open a little very quickly, if it immediately stumbles and threatens to quit it is too lean, if it stumbles and smokes it is too rich, quite often the best transition and best idle are not the same setting. Having the best idle at 1,900 rpm can lead to a rich rich midrange where as the best idle setting at 2,200 usually has a leaner transition and therefore better fuel ecomomy, just a couple of my thoughts.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

Please note that I said "The pinch test is valid for getting close... ...final adjustment has to be done by checking how the engine comes off idle when the throttle is opened."

You have explained in more detail how to get the last bit. We do not disagree. I was just too lazy to write it all out.

Bill.

cadconversions

My Feedback: (21)

Thanks William. That should get me going for now. I have two of them (1.50) now in new planes that I purchased.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sorry W, I didn't mean to say my way is better, for some reason I just never tried the pinch test way so it never became part of my routine so to speak. As always the engine gets the final word.

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Good to see you back Will Robinson This thread almost died the couple days you were gone, I saw it go down almost to the second page[:@]

My Perry 30 and Saito 56 are on the way

Thanks for all the help in making the right equipment choices !

JettPilot

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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If they have half a brain at the warranty center, they'll replace the necessary parts for free, along with free labor. As you said, if there has been no trauma induced to the engine, this is definitely a manufacturing flaw - out of warranty or not. I bet they'll cover it. Any takers?