JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

My new Saito 56 GK for my new project arrived from Horizon Hobbies the other day It seems like a crime to throw away the box it came in, its more like a jewelry case than an engine box ! The engine itself is such a good looking engine with the black finish and gold valve cover, I am temped to frame it and display it somewhere But I need it to power my newest plane so it is destined for an oily, castor encrusted existance. Attached are some pictures of this really neat little Saito.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Nice looking .56. I wasn't aware that they came with a stack but they look good on yours.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Jett:

Definitely pretty. Now all you need is the air cleaner.

Bill.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

WR & JP,

In what parameters is the VP-30 superior to the VP-20. The power to drive the pumps is derived from the engine through different pathways, but does the VP-30 deliver superior results? Just another thought.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

rimcnii:

Functionally the VP-20 and the VP-30 do the same thing. The VP-20 “Shaker� pump uses the engine vibration, and the VP-30 uses the pulses from the crank case vent.

The shaker VP-20? I’ve just never been able to reconcile myself to using the engine vibration to run the pump. I do all I can to eliminate it, and then admitting I can’t get rid of it? I’ve never used one, so a lot of what follows is purely speculation.

With the engine running at speed I’ve no doubt there’s enough shake rattle and roll to keep the pressure up, but what happens at idle? The engine slows down, the roughness goes away, it’s as smooth as a Swiss watch. No vibration, no pumping, no fuel. OK, the engine gets rough from going lean, shakes the pump, pressure comes back up, the engine smoothes out, the pump stops, and the cycle repeats. As I said I don’t KNOW this, it just seems likely.

Anyway, that’s the basis for my preferring the VP-30. Perhaps some who have used the VP-20 will comment?

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

It is a beautiful work of metal art, isn't it!

dfkroft

What would one use for an aircleaner on a Saito FA 90T?

dfkroft

What would one use for an aircleaner on a Saito FA 90T?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

You would have to use two, and it might be a bear to keep them on. Bru-Line - several suppliers stock them.

Bill.

1080tommy

I just put a SAITO 1.25 in a Hangar 9 Corsair and have run about three tankfuls of gas through it. For break in, I ran two tanks of gas through it at five turns out per the manual. After adjusting the high speed needle I seem to be getting about 8500 rpm. Since this is my first 4-stroke I'm wondering if it is adjusted ok. The manual says the rpm range is from 2,000 - 11,000 rpm. The engine transitions smooth from full throttle to idle without dieing out and pulls like hell at full throtle. I'm using a 15X8 two blade Master Airscrew Prop and using 15% glow fuel. Can someone with some experience please let me know if this seems ok. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I seem to get the 8,300- 8,500 at about two turns out and I live in Mt. Prospect Il so I am not at any elevation. Thanks.

Tom

EMVIN

Mr. Robinson, I have been reading along in reguards to the perry pump issue and I have spoke with you on this topic in the past not sure how many pages back. I too have been having tuning issues with the low end and will apply the same technique for tuning as well.. Thanks....

OK I have a saito 180 with about 7-8" of tubing from the fuel tank to the carb. It runs reliably, but, using the same set up as on another plane 18X6 Pro Zinger and 30% cool Power I am at a loss of RPM. Its currently runing at 8,000-8,200 RPM opposed to the prior set up were the fuel tank was set up at the fire wall with probably less than half the length of tubing. The prior set up RPM was 8700 - 9,000+/- RPM. The engine is currently running hot as well. Here is the question. Do you think a simple check valve will cure this issue or am I in need of a pump? Thanks ....EMVIN .....Club Saito member #237.....

dfkroft

Yeah, I can see there would be a problem. The 'choke' and other things.
Thanks anyway.
Dave

mstcitabria

WR,
Should I remove the factory prop nuts from the crankshaft when using a heavy hub? Or should use the nuts and heavy hub together, on a Satio 100?
mstcitabria

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Wow. Looks like everybody wants an answer at once. And here I am getting several planes (all twins) for a fly-in this weekend – Multis over McDonough. Hopefully I’ll have the Tiggerkitty, AMD 061 engines, the C-3/10 with its Magnum XL 46s, and a new prototype which is supposed to come in the door any minute. It’s the one that will take the time, and it will have K&B ringed 61 engines when it’s ready. Why no Saito power? I have only one twin with Saitos, they are FA-120s, and the plane is just too big to take along with the others. I’m sharing a ride, and the other two going want to take some planes also. Enough.

1080tommy:

The 15x8 prop is right on the top end for your engine, so you aren’t going to get r4eally high rpm with it. So long as it pulls well and runs fine don’t worry about the engine speed. I’ll guess you’re still running the tank dry quickly, be careful, but start leaning the LS and the economy will go up. And, (broken record?) add a stack and an air filter.

And I’ve added you to Club Saito as number 313. Welcome.

EMVIN:

I suspect you might be down on power because the engine just can’t reliably pull the fuel that far. The high cylinder temperature would tend to confirm.

A check valve in the muffler pressure line would result in too much pressure. At best you would stay ‘way rich, at worst the engine would flood and quit. If you use a Cline or Iron Bay regulator the check valve would be necessary. Alternately a Perry pump would work if you can’t move the tank up closer.

Dave:

If your FA-65 has a choke installed there’s a good probability it has the older cam grind. Still a strong engine, and it idles better than it would with the hot cam. And you can install the SAI50GK93 stack, the flange of the stack replaces the original retainer for the choke plate.

Mstc:

If you have room on the threads you can use both the original locking nut set and the heavy hub at the same time, but it’s not necessary. So long as you have the inner nut against the prop washer, then tighten the heavy hub against it, all should be well. You do want to have at least two nuts, tightened one against the other

Bill.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

WR- Have fun at the fly-in! Post some pics when you return.[8D]

1080tommy

Thanks for the info William I appreciate it. This helps and I need to lean the LS needle because I have only turned it 1/4 turn in and most guys are saying that as much as 2 turns may be needed.

Tom

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

Maybe even more than that. The initial setting is really rich.

Bill.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

MSTC,

http://members.aol.com/harryhig/EngineAccessories1.htm

Take a look at these prop-locking nuts. I have used them with great success. They are manufactured in aluminum (if you need no extra weight), or brass (if you do). They function as a second nut and a prop washer.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

WR,

A pump that does not rely on vibration certainly is more aesthetically pleasing, isn't it?

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Bill,

Time to put the sign on the front door and take a break and relax for yourself. Have a great time!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks all, for the good wishes.

Here’s the new plane, got here a little over two hours ago, it took me that long to get it unpacked. Just stuck together in the front yard, nothing in it yet. Somebody want to send me another FA-80 really quick?

Haw.

Bill.

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
It looks kinda like a Twin-Aire.
Is it?
JLK

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

That delta on the vertical fin looks reminiscent of the Goldberg logo.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

John:

That's a meter stick on the left wing in the pictures. Have you ever seen a Twin-Air with an 84" wing span?

Bill.

PS: I wont say who sent it, but look at the logo on the vertical fin. wr.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

OK folks, John is showing it on his web site now. got to [link=http://www.ne-aero.com/]Northeast Aerodynamics[/link] and see it on the first page. It is the Twin-Air 60.

Bill.