RVM

On the subject of oil, I've known Saitos that have run for years and years on 12% synthetic, 20% nitro glow fuel. A lot of Europeans seem to use a much lower oil content too. I think the only reason 18%++ oil content is advised is for liability reasons. I believe Powermaster has the same philosophy behind their 4 stroke fuels (not including 20/20 fuel). I don't know that I'd want to run 12% synthetic in a YS engine, considering their supercharging, but this isn't about YS engines, it is about Saitos, and they seem to do great on 12%. It also provides quite a bit extra power as well. I read somewhere that increasing methanol content by 1% yields a gain similar to increasing nitromethane by 1%.

Just some stuff worth considering.

William Robison

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Charles:

More. Don’t take the engine further apart. Get a can of spray cleaner or penetrating oil that comes with a thin plastic hose that will go in the spray nozzle. Holding the engine head down stick the thin hose all the way up the push rod tube. Squirt, and while squirting pull the plastic hose out. This will clean ant trash out that may be there. Then wash the rocker and valve spring. Do this with the other rocker box on to keep from blowing any trash into the other side. Then put it together and try it. Foolish to pull the whole engine down just for this.

The cam? Might be hammered some, but if the engine runs fine don’t worry bout it.

Bill.

r1derbike

Thanks for the tips, Bill. I'll give it a wash and see what happens!

The other rod is in fine, and those ends are exactly like the ones (well...one, now) on the pushrod(s). I'll order a bucket/pushrod for the defective side and give-it-a-go!

Thanks again!

Charles

picard1

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New Memeber Here...

I have a new saito 125 that I have run 1 1/2 gal of 20% fuel thru it. I'm using an apc 16x6 prop at an elevation of 3000'. My question is that my top rpm is 8500. I have a saito 100 with a 16x4w and it's top rpm is 9000. Looking for suggestions?


Mike

William Robison

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picard1:

Sorry sir. You aren't a member until you get a number. Number 315 is yours. Congratulations. Now you are a member, and welcome.

Other numbers. If you put the 16x4W prop on your FA-125 it should spin it around 9400-9600, and the 16x6 on the FA-100 should drop to 78-7900 rpm. If you get roughly these numbers both your engines would seem fine to me.

The FA-125 may give more rpm as it gets more fully run in, but what you posted seems fine.

Bill.

rlmcnii

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WR & R1

Last time I had the valve cover off on my .91 the cup was chipped; this was the exhaust side. Replaced the cup and haven't used the engine since. I just pulled the cover and...the exhaust pushrod is in upside down. This engine was new to me, not used. At least now I know why the cup chipped. Will do WR's squirt and clean and reinstall rod.

Might be worthwhile looking at my other Saitos. I wonder how many engines are manufactured with the pushrods in upside down.

rlmcnii

jharkin

My Feedback: (2)

I'll join the club. Have a .91 on a 5lb profile and a .72 waiting to go into a 1/5 Cub.

Definately plan to get more in the future.

r1derbike

Interesting, RLM...

My brother said my .72 never ran quite right from the start, he bought it new. Don't know if he did the pushrod flip-flop or it came like that. Bro' is very mechanically inclined, and I'd hope he wouldn't make a mistake like that, but you never know.

Will be interesting to hear if any other new Saitos suffer this...new units in the box.

Charles

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[/b]

Ex-factory with the rod in wrong. Hmm… Quality control must have slipped for a while.

It would be well for all to check their small and mid block engines for this. Mid block includes the new FA-125. The big block engines, the 120/150/180 use light alloy push rods with steel ends inserted, they will go either way up.

jharkin:

Welcome sir. Number 316 is yours now and forever.

Bill.

rlmcnii

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R1,

My .91 seems to have run fine. Maybe it will be better now. I noticed the chip in the bucket when I took the valve cover off to after-run lube it. Wiggled the rockers with my finger tips and the exhaust felt really loose. The pushrod was running against the underside of the rocker arm, not in the bucket! The engine ran fine!

I am going to check my .82s.

The .91 was new when i got it. rlmcnii

r1derbike

I couldn't get my .72 over around 8200 rpm max. Idled, transitioned, did everything well except peak past 8200 with an 13X6 APC. Very weird! Hope the new parts will cure the max rpm issue. I just couldn't believe it ran with the cup and pushrod end hammered. Wonders never cease!

Charles

skillet92

Hey all,
I have a Saito 125 and as of the moment I am running 16x6 MAS 2 blade. I want to put a 3 blade on and want to know how do i pick a blade that will be OK for the engine?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Go to a 15-6 3 blade if you can find one.

William Robison

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Skillet:

I run a MAS 14x8 three blade on my FA-120 engines. W8YE's suggestion is about the same load, but should pull better at low speeds than the 14x8. Take your pick.

Bill.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

WR, R1, et.al.

Just checked my two .82s for upside-down pushrods. One was fine and the other had a exhaust pushrod in upside-down. No damage.The engine has not been run much.

The .91 with the pushrod in upside down had only minor scratching to the anodized surface of the pushrod (at least that is all that is visible). Most of the chips from the adjustment screw came out when the pushrod was removed and the rest were washed out using WR's spray & wash technique.

All of these engines were purchased new-in-box by me. I have no way of knowing dates of manufacture, but the .91 is probably a year older than the .82s. I had purchased all three of the engines within the last twenty months.

It would probably not be a bad idea to make pushrod inspection part of the inspection performed prior to the first start.

Time for an AD????????? rlmcnii

Kmot

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Definitely!! [:@]

kevhunt

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Since there were no follow up posts in this thread, I'm assuming that another .80 didn't materialize.[sm=tired.gif](In reference to the Twin Air .60 prototype)
I'll bet that bird would have sounded sweet with a couple of Saitos bolted on the nose!!! Kevin

Hobbsy

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Uh Oh William, my TS .90 growed an additional cylinder, a Keleo (spelling) collector ring is on the way. The big brown truck dropped it off about 4:30 this PM.

rlmcnii

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torquewrench,

You will have a lot of fun with your Flyin' King, particularly one powered with a Saito! That is a .90 three-cylinder?? Would you post some pictures of your engine installation when you get to that point?
rlmcnii

jayce69

My Feedback: (2)

My other Saito's ((2) .50, .65, .80, 1.50) moved out when I brought this one home...hard to find a starter big enough (and cheap enough) to turn it over though.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes, it's a .90, I had one with a Saito .80, I'll get pics, I'll start on the fuse tomorrow..

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

An AD on a toy airplane engine. Wonder what the FAA will say when we suggest an NPRM about the push rods. Haw.

--For those not “With it” an “AD” is an “Airworthiness Directive,” an “NPRM” is a “Notice of Proposed Rule Making.”

Kevin:

Nope. Nobody has volunteered another FA-80 for the new plane, it’s getting a pair of trusty K&B ringed 61 engines. It’s a prototype so I have to go with the maker’s specification anyway. It’s been a comedy of errors from suppliers, and unbelievable epoxy failure. See the thread for particulars. End result? I didn’t go to MoM for the second year in a row.

Dave:

Your new FA-90R3 should do a great job on the BTE plane. But you should have gotten the “Super Flyin King” and a FA-450R3 for it. In this instance though, we’ll let you slide. Isn’t that nice of us? Haw.

Jayce69:

Dang! Now I have to put another name on the Club Saito list. You’re number 317.

Unless you’d like to send that engine to TW for his Super Flyin’ King? Then I can take you off the list. Haw. Welcome to the madhouse.

Heavy starter? Why does nobody remember the days when there were no “Hobby” electric starters? We’d go to the junk yard and pick one that had the shaft out the end, bolt it to a metal frame with a shelf for a car battery, and use a couple clamps to hold a short bit of rubber garden hose on the armature. We did have to hold the plane to the starter instead of holding the starter to the plane. I still have one made with the starter from an industrial diesel engine, not much bigger than the ordinary hobby starter but it spins anything I hold up to it. Commercial hobby starters are a lot more convenient, but this is an alternate for you. And it IS cheap.

Bill.

jayce69

My Feedback: (2)

As I have said in the thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4423560/tm.htm

Going to store tomorrow to see what I can find as an alternative. When I get this bad boy fired up again, I will post video!

BTW, the Super Flying King will be on order as soon as I have enough of a house to build it in...lol Bruce wants to see the engine on it as well as my plans for a twin 4-star 40 with two saito 50's.

Thanks,
Jason

loughbd

Why doesn't anyone remember the days when there were NO starters and you handstarted engines?? I hand start all my engines with no difficulty. It's easy if the engine is set up correctly. Starting large engines by hand is easy.

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r1derbike

W8YE de KG5JJ. HW CPI, old scout? BK...

BTW, Bill:

That starter sounds like it was really "hosed"...