conchohoncho

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Hi Bill,
I see that you have the same problem that I have. The hair turns gray and then it falls out.
Conch #260

William Robison

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TC:

I am a long standing radial nut. My last one, if you recall our earlier talking, was an OS 5R300 in the same plane you have gotten. The OS was both heavier and lower powered than the FA-325R5d, yours should fly with “More Spirit” than mine did.

What would you think of a seven cylinder radial with each cylinder being an 0.020 cid size? I’m still, after some five years, waiting for Technopower to make me a pair of their 7A radials, total displacement 1.35 cid, for my Bridi Tigercat. Maybe someday. Or maybe I’ll give up and use different engines. A hard dream to give up – just think of the look and sound of two seven cylinder radials running together. Wow.

[email protected]:

Phil:

The clicking is perfectly normal, and not to worry about. By careful assembly, and selection of the thickness of the cam box gasket, it can be minimized. The supplied gasket is 0.007” uncompressed, usually compressed thickness is right on 0.005” and I’ve had them come in at 0.002” with minimum gear lash. I do not do this with other people’s engines unless I’m begged, it just takes too long to make the measurements and find the right thickness gasket paper. But I’ve just put my FA-72 back together, you have to listen very closely to hear the click. Its gasket is 0.003” at final assembly.

And [email protected] is in Club Saito as member number 333. Welcome to the world of Saito.

Concho:

Not just my hair. Sam likes the airplanes too, and gets protective of his favorites.

Haw.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

TCrafty:

I'm not actually in Mary Esther, that's just my mailing address. I'm about 15 miles west of ME, and 40 miles east of Pensacola.

Bill.

McEntyre

My Feedback: (77)

thanks bill that just what i wanted thanks Donnie

[email protected]

Bill Robison:

Thanks for your response.

I've examined the cam box on my 30 with a magnifier. It appears no gasket is used there (must be cost cutting with lower margins on smaller engines). When I get motivated enough, I will mill off a few thousands to reduce the backlash.

Philip

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The current 30's do not have a gasket under the cam cover.

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Is that you in the picture WR ?

I never pictured you having a beard... Especially a long one. It seems like it would be an occupacional hazard in your profession, you get in to close for a look at the lathe and it would not be pretty [X(]

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

JP:

It'x me. This picture is from a day we were giving the local Cub Sprouts some stick time.

The lathe? I'm always careful not to get too close. You're right. It would not be pretty.

Bill.

N3OKI

Well I guess I am an official Saito junky....... Jus ordered 2 more engines, a .91 and a 2.20. Those on top of the FA-40, FA-72, FA-125 and the FA-150........hmmmmm 6 Saitos in less than 6 months............worse than drugs..LOL

top242

i need help for break- in the saito 65 Thanzs!

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

I know Saito recommends 20 % oil, but Omega fuel is sold everywhere and has about 18 % oil in it... I dont want to start having to mix fuels and add oil, is it ok to run straight Omega fuel in Saitos, is the 18 % oil close enough ?

JettPilot

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

My "Standard" fuel for Saito as well as all my other engines (except 1/2A) is Omega 15%. No trouble. Take it for what it's worth.

Bill.

whaturi

maybe william can help me?

i am ready to throw my 150 in the trash.

i am not able to get the engine to die by opening up the high needle. when flown, the enigne surges and overheats. it is not getting enough fuel. i tried a perry oscillating pump, would not die rich. i tried 1\8" fuel tubing, same thing. the needle really seems in effective. its nothing like my saito 100 was. i have the carb apart on my desk and there is no dirt in it. i can blow through it fine. the low end is perfect and responds to needle changes. i am at wits end with this.

15% S&W fuel. worked great in my 100. APC 17-6 prop. also had an APC 16-6.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Whaturi:

Of course I’ll help you, you should know that by now. I will remove your pain quickly, to the tune of twenty-five cents on the dollar. Just tell me where to send the $100 for the engine, you can send it to me instead of tossing it in the trash. Haw.

Down to business. You have to have a fault in the carb, restricting the fuel flow if even the pump wont make it go rich.

The 120/150/180 running muffler pressure usually end up with the HS needle 4½ to 5 turns open. If not there’s a fuel delivery problem.

With the history you’ve posted of the problem I think you’ve eliminated everything except the carb.

First, let’s talk about air leakage at the carb. I don’t think it’s likely since you should have seen fuel leaking outside the carb using the pump, but we’ll cover it anyway.

Take the HS needle out. In the end of the nubbin it screws into there’s an o-ring for sealing the neele itself. Get a strong magnifying glass, inspect carefully. Any visible damage, replace it.

Next, the fuel fitting itself can leak where it screws into the needle carrier. Uncommon to leak there, but possible.

Loosen the nut that holds the clicker spring, unscrew the needle carrier from the side of the carb. This is the most probable point for an air leak.

Now let’s consider a restriction.

Strangest one I’ve seen is the needle itself being loose in its knob. Grab the needle with a pair of pliers (gently please, don’t scratch it) and see if it’s loose. I have seen this only one time, but you could be the second.

Put a short length of fuel hose on the spray bar nipple, be sure there’s no restriction there.

Pull the throttle barrel out of the carb body. Don’t lose the barrel spring. You should now have a clear view through the needle carrier and the main spray bar.

If you have the old style carb with a tapered LS needle your eyeball can see anything stuck to it, if yours is the later sleeve type a wire should go in about ÂĽ inch. You can clean it with a small drill bit, be sure not to make the inside diameter any larger.

When you put it back together the throttle barrel installation is straightforward. The small end of the barrel spring goes in first. Be careful when putting the retainer screw (some have two) back in, don’t turn it hard against the barrel, be sure you have it in its groove before you tighten it.

Run the lock nut all the way up on the needle carrier, put the clicker spring on and add a VERY small dab of RTV to the carrier thread. Don’t let any get inside. Turn the carrier down as far as it will go, then back it out only as far as needed to get the fuel nipple where you want it. The latest big block carbs have the same tiny o-ring to seal the needle carrier I showed in an earlier post on the mid block carb. Don’t try to reuse it. If you have a carb gasket kit put a new one on in place of the RTV, else just use the RTV.

Reinstall the carb, run the engine and see what happens. Don’t forget my offer. Haw again.

Bill.

PS: Pictures to follow. wr.

whaturi

ok william, just did everything you said to, put it back on the showtime and same exact problem. i put super short fuel and pressure lines on it just for the test. the low end is easily adjustable, from sloppy rich to to lean to advance. once i get to full throttle, i can literally unscrew the needle (which i did) and plug up where the needle goes with my finger, allowing FULL fuel flow and still it does not go rich. i think i hear detonation also. i am getting ready to say the hell with this and get a ys 110 for the plane. $100 huh?

the only thing i have not mentioned so far is that i put an elbow with a pressure tap on it instead of a muffler.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

What;

If you were running ONLY the elbow and tap that could be the problem. And maybe your shaker pump wasn't giving enough fuel flow.

There still has to be a reason for its going lean. How high is the tank?

$100. Haw.

Bill.

whaturi

the tank is mounted so that the center of it is even with the carb spray bar. and i have had it running filled up at all different levels.

whaturi

i think it is fixed. i mounted the engine sideways so that the pitts muffler i have for it actually fits. just ran it like that and happy to say it would get VERY rich and the sweet spot was right around 3 turns out at 9100 with an APC 17-6. starting to seem like an engine now. i was not able to kill it with the richest setting, but it sputtered and rpms dropped to 6500 and lots of smoke.

thanks as always, william. and sorry our "deal" didn't work out.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

For those of you who have been brave enough to fly in this heat wave that most of the US has been under, have you noticed any power/performance issues? For me, density altitude and heat have been formidable!

My SSE/Saito 82 combo normally has the power to climb out of a hover with authority, but in the 100 degree heat, she will barely hover at all!

w4stp

Hi Guy's
Bought my first Saito .56 and installed it on a Sig Four Star 40 talk about sweet! plenty of power and it swings a APC 12/6 I love it
and will never own a 2 stroke again!
Would like to join the 4 stroke crew too!

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

welcome to the fun, w4stp!

w4stp

Thanks the site has a lot of good info on Saito's me being a new owner of one just doing homework going to buy a FA-100 and put it on a Funtana S-90 should have the Funtana by wed. !

Thunderchild

The Tigercat has got to be one of my all time favourite subjects. What a magic choice. I have not ever seen a Technopower engine. Seven cylinders! Outstanding. Now a pair of those on song would be a treat.

If it gets too much (five years IS an awful long time to wait) why not a pair of Saito's three cylinder beasties?

If and when you do manage to extract the ironworks from Technopower, you have just got to post pictures. I guess these will be in the Everything Radial thread?

TC

blw

My Feedback: (3)

w4stp- have you thought about the Saito 1.25 instead? That may be a better choice for the Funtana 90 for the right amouint of power. We have one flying at the field with an OS 1.20 Surpass. I've always noticed how well it flies with that extra bit of power over something like a FA-100. Just a suggestion......

Glad to hear that the .56 is a good engine for the 4*40. I have one on a Kavalier. I have the 4*40 kit and am wondering about a .72 or .82 for it.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

w4stp:

Welcome to the sanity of recognizing Saito engines as just about the best available. You are now in Club Saito as number 334.

Bill.