Welcome to Club SAITO !
Ok got 150 with the bad crank pulled the head of of case marked with a F. It had a bigger piston then the one with an A.
Put the F head on the A case and cranck. Will try and run it this weekend and see how it does.
Put the F head on the A case and cranck. Will try and run it this weekend and see how it does.
I would expect the A crank have a longer stroke seeing as its piston is smaller. I hope you have adequate piston to valve clearance using the F cylinder and piston.
I'm gettin excited like a circuit with a tickle of current (i love ACDC!!)and all the talk about chargers dave,is that a plus or minus? even tractors are startin to look good...or have i dropped another cell?
The elbow and muffler look very clean,low time engine?? and here's a pic to inspire your paint job efforts buddy
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Cap, I think the engine you think is a 150 may in fact be a 120, it's easy to prove though. Or it could be a 180.
180 bore===1.41" stroke===1.12"
150 bore===1.33" stroke===1.08"
120 bore===1.26" stroke===0.9673" 24.8 mm
180 bore===1.41" stroke===1.12"
150 bore===1.33" stroke===1.08"
120 bore===1.26" stroke===0.9673" 24.8 mm
Last edited by Hobbsy; 03-05-2019 at 04:13 AM. Reason: Add content
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
I'm gettin excited like a circuit with a tickle of current (i love ACDC!!)and all the talk about chargers dave,is that a plus or minus? even tractors are startin to look good...or have i dropped another cell?
Nice to see a pile of saito innards,i usually spend quite a lot of time at that stage checking parts with the mk1 eyeball which can be hampered by a slow processor
The elbow and muffler look very clean,low time engine?? and here's a pic to inspire your paint job efforts buddy
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
I'm gettin excited like a circuit with a tickle of current (i love ACDC!!)and all the talk about chargers dave,is that a plus or minus? even tractors are startin to look good...or have i dropped another cell?
Nice to see a pile of saito innards,i usually spend quite a lot of time at that stage checking parts with the mk1 eyeball which can be hampered by a slow processor
The elbow and muffler look very clean,low time engine?? and here's a pic to inspire your paint job efforts buddy
Pete, the rocker cover gaskets are the blue ones, I will have jackhammer them off.
A friend of mine, (70 years as best friend) and I souped up a ford flat head, it wore Offehauser 10 to 1 heads, Power Dome pistons, Grant chrome rings, an Edmunds 2 x 2 manifold, two Stromberg 97 carbs, Mallory Mag Spark ignition, I can't remember the cam brand.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 03-05-2019 at 04:38 AM.
For home use I use a DC switching type power supply that uses adjustable voltage and current limit. I always power battery chargers of any type through a universal,fully programmable digital timer, also home made.
We used to buy the Battery Tender chargers at work in quantity lots.
Since then we have switched over to a different brand for several reasons.
BTW guess where Battery Tender gets their chargers?
Last edited by Jesse Open; 03-05-2019 at 05:02 AM.
The parts engine that got off ebay is supposed to be 150.
Thinking that was a mistake. So now i have a 150 with a short stroke. It will be fine.
I will find out this weekend when the weather warms up a little
Last edited by Captcrunch44; 03-05-2019 at 05:10 AM.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
yeah the diameter was different. But with the information that Hobbsy just gave me makes me wonder.
The parts engine that got off ebay is supposed to be 150.
Thinking that was a mistake. So now i have a 150 with a short stroke. It will be fine.
I will find out this weekend when the weather warms up a little
Mike, with the shorter stroke, is it going to have low compression? Thanks
Do you want that 150 cylinder that I posted earlier?
Last edited by Jesse Open; 03-05-2019 at 05:39 AM.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Like most things that get reviewed, most work very well in spite of the reviews. I subscribed to Consumer Mag. for one year about 30 years ago, I quickly learned that they hated all things American.
Performance varies greatly from model to model.
My Feedback: (6)
You mean there might been someone left on this thread still in possession of all his mental faculties?! Can't be we all need to be carted off the the loony bin!
My Feedback: (50)
yeah the diameter was different. But with the information that Hobbsy just gave me makes me wonder.
The parts engine that got off ebay is supposed to be 150.
Thinking that was a mistake. So now i have a 150 with a short stroke. It will be fine.
I will find out this weekend when the weather warms up a little
What crank do you think you have?
The 120 crank is 2.7mm shorter stroke than a 150.
The 180 crank is 1.1 mm longer.
The bores are 2mm from one to the next IE: the 120 is 32mm, the 150 is 34mm and the 180 is 36mm bore dia.
Timing the Large Saito? How do you guys set the timing on the larger Saito's with the lifter that has a head on it. With the smaller Saito, you can drop the lifters in after you engage the timing gears by engaging the little hole in the cam with a pin thru the lifter bore. The 180 I am working on has to have the lifters in before you mount the cam box. Just wondering if there are any techniques I am unaware of other than just a careful "eyeball" job to have the crank pin at TDC and the timing mark on the gear at the bottom as you carefully bring the gears to mesh. After you have it meshed is there a way check it other than starting it up and seeing if it runs poorly. Thanks for any input......Mike
Timing the Large Saito? How do you guys set the timing on the larger Saito's with the lifter that has a head on it. With the smaller Saito, you can drop the lifters in after you engage the timing gears by engaging the little hole in the cam with a pin thru the lifter bore. The 180 I am working on has to have the lifters in before you mount the cam box. Just wondering if there are any techniques I am unaware of other than just a careful "eyeball" job to have the crank pin at TDC and the timing mark on the gear at the bottom as you carefully bring the gears to mesh. After you have it meshed is there a way check it other than starting it up and seeing if it runs poorly. Thanks for any input......Mike
I use a little horseshoe shaped plate to hold the cam's spur gear in position. I also use a plug in the rear opening to hold the crank at TDC, some even just use a rubber band. I will try to post a pic later tonight.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 03-05-2019 at 07:53 AM.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
I muse two one inch long studs, (socket heads with the heads cut off) diagonally placed in the cam cover hold down screw holes, I then hold the cam in the correct position with an Exacto blade and lower the assembly down over the studs. Easy Peasy.