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10-25-2019, 03:07 PM
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I didn't do it, honest.
I mixed up a new batch of fuel for the FG 11 using the Klotz at 20 to 1. Everything inside the FG 11 is blue from the Mercury Quicksilver oil, I guess it will all turn red now.
Gary, the FG 11 instructions say to gap the plug at .4 mm to .5 mm, that doesn't seem like much.
Excerpt: SAITO SP-1 spark plug is the standard equipment. Dimensions are as follows; Hexagon width: 8mm Screw size: UNEF 1/4-32 Reach (with a washer): 5.5mm Spark-gap: 0.4-0.5mm For replacement, please specify “SAITO SP-1”.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-25-2019 at 03:13 PM. Reason: Correction.
10-26-2019, 12:24 AM
Dave likes to use the standard saito feeler gauge which is 1mm i think, i've thrown mine out because if i remember right, and feel free to correct and/or elaborate the old cast iron car engines had big valve lash set as standard because the valve gap CLOSED as the engine came up to proper operating temps. From what i've read here in the past our single piece barrel/head aluminium saito engines expand (get taller) in the opposite direction when the come up to proper operating temp, so the valve gap GROWS. I've never had a burnt valve yet while setting the gap with a cigarette paper, or if you like feeler gauges .002 when cold. Anybodies thoughts welcome also.
ps dave did you get that rod sorted out for the fa82?
ps dave did you get that rod sorted out for the fa82?
10-26-2019, 12:43 AM
Last edited by Captcrunch44; 10-26-2019 at 12:55 AM.
10-26-2019, 02:04 AM
10-26-2019, 02:16 AM
My Feedback: (102)
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Dave likes to use the standard saito feeler gauge which is 1mm i think, i've thrown mine out because if i remember right, and feel free to correct and/or elaborate the old cast iron car engines had big valve lash set as standard because the valve gap CLOSED as the engine came up to proper operating temps. From what i've read here in the past our single piece barrel/head aluminium saito engines expand (get taller) in the opposite direction when the come up to proper operating temp, so the valve gap GROWS. I've never had a burnt valve yet while setting the gap with a cigarette paper, or if you like feeler gauges .002 when cold. Anybodies thoughts welcome also.
ps dave did you get that rod sorted out for the fa82?
ps dave did you get that rod sorted out for the fa82?
One .10mm Feeler Gauge (.004 in)
One 1.5mm Hex Key
One 5mm Wrench
One Plastic Carrying Case
The one I received did not contain the .10 mm gauge.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-26-2019 at 02:21 AM. Reason: Add content
10-26-2019, 03:25 AM
10-26-2019, 03:34 AM
10-26-2019, 04:26 AM
I don't think so, valve lash settings anywhere between .0015" - .004" should work fine. I use a .015" or 002" feeler gauge myself.
.
The aluminum cylinder and case do expand in height more than the steel pushrods, tappets and camshaft as the engine heats up and as a result the lash opens up a little, as Pete said.
The idea is if we adjust the lash a little tighter than spec'd by saito the lash will be a little tighter at full operating temp. Why do we care? Because that my help to keep the tappets from beating dents into the camshaft lobes at high rpm.
Technically a tighter lash also increases effective camshaft duration which should allow our engines to peak at higher rpms. Conversely running a looser lash should reduce effective camshaft duration and provide more torque at lower rpms. I have not tested this on these tiny engines because all my planes are over powered so no need to tweak valve lash for more rpms or torque.
.
The aluminum cylinder and case do expand in height more than the steel pushrods, tappets and camshaft as the engine heats up and as a result the lash opens up a little, as Pete said.
The idea is if we adjust the lash a little tighter than spec'd by saito the lash will be a little tighter at full operating temp. Why do we care? Because that my help to keep the tappets from beating dents into the camshaft lobes at high rpm.
Technically a tighter lash also increases effective camshaft duration which should allow our engines to peak at higher rpms. Conversely running a looser lash should reduce effective camshaft duration and provide more torque at lower rpms. I have not tested this on these tiny engines because all my planes are over powered so no need to tweak valve lash for more rpms or torque.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-26-2019 at 06:14 AM.
10-26-2019, 06:23 AM
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Mike, it's certainly not bad by my estimation, I used it for 22+ years with no problem, I've never seen a dent in my own cams. And I'm thoroughly convinced it's only bad in the imaginations of the others. I use the OS gauge so I won't get stomped every time I mention it. I still think the dent is from over revving, if the excess lash caused the dent it would be on the leading side due to the impact when the excess slack is taken up. Yep, That's my good/bad thought for the day and I'm a stickin to it.
Saito supplies .0039 gauge for some reason and then get wishy washy giving us a range, pretty lame, says me.
PS, I ran the FG 11 for an hour and a half, I need to down load a couple of pictures before I report.
Saito supplies .0039 gauge for some reason and then get wishy washy giving us a range, pretty lame, says me.PS, I ran the FG 11 for an hour and a half, I need to down load a couple of pictures before I report.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-26-2019 at 06:24 AM. Reason: Spelling error
10-26-2019, 06:48 AM
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Idle
Max rpm
FG 11 90 minute run 10/26/2019
Prop======Graupner G-Sonic 13 x 7, forgive me Pete, it's the only 13 x 7 I have
Fuel======Marathon 90 octane, ethanol free
Ignition====CHI synchro spark
Ignition timing==40 btdc
Plug======Saito SP 1
Exhaust===Stock cast muffler
10-26-2019, 09:54 AM
Dave,
Perhaps you are misinterpreting the forces at play. On the valve opening, the excessive clearance is taken up more gradually against the relaxed valve spring.
On the closing side, as the lifter goes slack and the stored energy in the spring is released,it skips briefly away from the closing side. While running at speed, the valve and spring inertia slaps the lifter repeatedly on to the closing side of the cam.
Bear in mind the compressed spring has a higher tension than the slack spring.
Not sure just who is " fretting" over it. I do know for certain that it shows up frequently in neglected engines that are run often with sloppily adjusted valves. Not only in toy engines, full size as well.
Perhaps you are misinterpreting the forces at play. On the valve opening, the excessive clearance is taken up more gradually against the relaxed valve spring.
On the closing side, as the lifter goes slack and the stored energy in the spring is released,it skips briefly away from the closing side. While running at speed, the valve and spring inertia slaps the lifter repeatedly on to the closing side of the cam.
Bear in mind the compressed spring has a higher tension than the slack spring.
Not sure just who is " fretting" over it. I do know for certain that it shows up frequently in neglected engines that are run often with sloppily adjusted valves. Not only in toy engines, full size as well.
10-26-2019, 09:57 AM
10-26-2019, 12:49 PM
Yep, that's the crankcase vent under the cam box. All Saitos have them, sometimes located there and sometimes located in the rear cover. Connect a piece of silicone fuel tubing (less than 8" long) to the vent nipple and route it outside of the cowl. After run oil can be injected through the vent tube after each flying day to eliminate the likelihood of bearings rusting.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-26-2019 at 12:54 PM.