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10-29-2019, 03:25 AM
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I do it mostly for the 100 and up, I pop the original flair out of the metal clip, then use a small socket 3/16" or there about. I slip an O-ring on the end of the tube above the clip and push the socket into the pipe using a 6" vise, then do the other end. My goal is for upper end to fit into the relief for the Mylar choke seal. The length is a little arbitrary, as in, that looks about right. I don't think there is any science for stacks this short. Some Saitos, such as the FA 40-a and the little 30 and the FG 11 have the Velocity Stack cast in as part of the carb body casting.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-29-2019 at 03:26 AM. Reason: Spelling
10-29-2019, 03:34 AM
Pretty slick Dave, thanks.
PS: Just realized, the engines I have with no velocity stacks or chokes don't have that thin black sheet metal choke bracket either. Guess I'll have to figure out something else for those carbs or just buy factory velocity stacks.
PS: Just realized, the engines I have with no velocity stacks or chokes don't have that thin black sheet metal choke bracket either. Guess I'll have to figure out something else for those carbs or just buy factory velocity stacks.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-29-2019 at 04:24 AM.
10-29-2019, 04:44 AM
Use some brass stock to make the bracket.KS sells it in sheets at the LHS or on line. You can solder a brass stack in place very easily to the brass bracket. The old socket flare trick has been around for quite some time. Had a two piece one on my ol Sr Kadet. A straight section on the inside that was swedged to accept the flared stack that was slipped in fro outside the cowl. The stack was 3 inches long and protruded about 1/2 inch outside the cowl.
The part shwn here was the part that went thru the cowl. The little "wing" below the flange was threaded thru a slot to retain the stack. Stayed put on that plane for over 35 years.
Then again you have a lathe IIRC . That opens up making a stack from bar stock as well.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-29-2019 at 04:51 AM.
10-29-2019, 04:57 AM
Looks like even the same "Craftsman" socket! LOL!
BTW. If you leave your solder bead a bit tall, you can file the bead for a good seal and avoid any need for an O-Ring.
BTW. If you leave your solder bead a bit tall, you can file the bead for a good seal and avoid any need for an O-Ring.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-29-2019 at 10:00 AM.
10-29-2019, 11:46 AM
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More toys help you play more with your toys.
Mike. I had to order a few more pieces of brass tube, they're on the way. For some reason I have the CHI trigger wheel and pickup that fits the 1.15
PS, I just received this vacuum pump, it has way more holding power than the Sullivan fuel bulb. You're not going to fumble the engine off TDC using this. If you happen to it flies right back to TDC. I wired it up and run it off my Hobbico 12 v power supply. I need to think a bit on a switch for it.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-30-2019 at 02:37 AM.
10-29-2019, 12:45 PM
I finally got around to putting Deans on one of my 6400 mah 3S Lipos and the starter with a short cable. I can now spin the FG-30 with authority. The pack fit into the Nicad case with a little trimming and is nice and snug in there.
10-29-2019, 01:31 PM
acdcii, 30cc, gas, 4 stroke and cdi seems like it would hand start easy? I have a love/hate relationship with lipos. Great energy density but they can puff and become a fire hazard when charging if not stored at 3.80v-3.85v per cell between uses. So far even being diligent I have never had one last more than two seasons.
I take a lawn mower PB batt to the field to spin the big'ns if they give me trouble. PBs love to be kept topped off so it's always ready when I am. A short heavy duty bungee strap hooked through the terminals makes a great carry handle.
I take a lawn mower PB batt to the field to spin the big'ns if they give me trouble. PBs love to be kept topped off so it's always ready when I am. A short heavy duty bungee strap hooked through the terminals makes a great carry handle.
10-29-2019, 03:05 PM
This is a quick and dirty tool for swedging tubing to be joined, can be a simple slip fit or silver soldered
The forming punch it mandrell
The female die
The formed tube end, ready to join.
Brass straight pipe
Brass exhaust, Saito 150. The reverse cone end is roll formed
I guess that depends
As a metal model maker by trade, it varies pretty wildly.
Brass is a favorite for many uses as it is readily cut, formed and joined. A few basic, inexpensive tools can make life even easier. A small "shim punch" set can be made or purchased ready made on eBay etc. small hand type tube benders as well. The ever present hammers and "corking tools" are the model makers mainstays.
Over the years the stuff accumulated and around here there are loads of brass tubes and half hard sheet stock, along with metalworking tools of the trade. Doesn't take much.
Handy hammer driven shim punch for making clean holes, discs and washers.
Hole and slug
Tube bender and tube
A cheap but very handy Whitney style hand punch. Works for metal, plastics, leather. Heavy paper. Light ply etc.
Start of a two into one collector
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-29-2019 at 03:21 PM.
10-29-2019, 05:19 PM
acdcii, 30cc, gas, 4 stroke and cdi seems like it would hand start easy? I have a love/hate relationship with lipos. Great energy density but they can puff and become a fire hazard when charging if not stored at 3.80v-3.85v per cell between uses. So far even being diligent I have never had one last more than two seasons.
I take a lawn mower PB batt to the field to spin the big'ns if they give me trouble. PBs love to be kept topped off so it's always ready when I am. A short heavy duty bungee strap hooked through the terminals makes a great carry handle.
I take a lawn mower PB batt to the field to spin the big'ns if they give me trouble. PBs love to be kept topped off so it's always ready when I am. A short heavy duty bungee strap hooked through the terminals makes a great carry handle.
10-29-2019, 05:34 PM
At some point it will, but these are brand new and will need some run time before they will hand start. Between the losses of the long cord and the banana plugs, there wasn't enough juice from my AGM to spin the FG-30 unless I gave the blade a helping flip with my hand. Now it easily spins since there are little losses between the battery and motor.
The LiOn batteries used on portable tools are awesome. As you noted the losses from the long wired from battery to starter are not present with the piggy back 20 volt.
Either one of these will easily start a Saito 180 or 50cc gasser. The battery lasts for days and is easy to swap at the field and easy to charge. Very safe handling too.
Even the little Kavan started the 160 Gemini right easy.
The DeWalt sisters
Kavan with homemade battery bracket
My first battery on board attempt. Uses a little micoswitch on the lever to trigger a relay. Avoids voltage drop. Originally (1980) had RC car NiCds. Now has LiFe 123 metal cells
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-29-2019 at 05:52 PM.
10-29-2019, 05:39 PM
My Feedback: (1)
but there the engine setts with new bearings, it needs a new liner and piston set. but the thing is, even if the liner and piston are replaced it will still be an OS 61FX
Jim
10-29-2019, 06:04 PM
Gary, that tubing bender looks like it's heavy duty. Have you tried freezing a soap and water mixture in the tubing before bending? It's suppised to keep the tubing from flattening under bending loads. I haven't tried it but then I don't have a bender like yours either.
10-29-2019, 06:16 PM
Gary, that tubing bender looks like it's heavy duty. Have you tried freezing a soap and water mixture in the tubing before bending? It's suppised to keep the tubing from flattening under bending loads. I haven't tried it but then I don't have a bender like yours either.
Those benders are not what I usually use, but they are very easy to find for five or ten bucks.
Yes, frozen water and soap are a standard trick. Pushing a string of balls through to push out the wrinkles is another trick.
The tools I show are usually inexpensive if you shop around a bit
10-30-2019, 02:46 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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acdcii, 30cc, gas, 4 stroke and cdi seems like it would hand start easy? I have a love/hate relationship with lipos. Great energy density but they can puff and become a fire hazard when charging if not stored at 3.80v-3.85v per cell between uses. So far even being diligent I have never had one last more than two seasons.
I take a lawn mower PB batt to the field to spin the big'ns if they give me trouble. PBs love to be kept topped off so it's always ready when I am. A short heavy duty bungee strap hooked through the terminals makes a great carry handle.
I take a lawn mower PB batt to the field to spin the big'ns if they give me trouble. PBs love to be kept topped off so it's always ready when I am. A short heavy duty bungee strap hooked through the terminals makes a great carry handle.
10-30-2019, 03:37 AM
Velocity stack brackets? I can make a few for you.
Haven't hauled a tractor battery to the field in years now. The Lithium Ion battery produces more power at a fraction of the weight
The Sullivan standard starter on Lithium Ion produces more power than the Dynatron does on a lead tractor battery.
In addition, no voltage drop from the long wires and no cord to tangle with the prop.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-30-2019 at 03:45 AM.