Welcome to Club SAITO !
08-29-2006, 07:48 PM
#4426
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: jasonlacey
Thanks again o wise one.You talk in the thread of Perry and cline pumps,what are they,what motivates them to pump, and who sells them?
Thanks again o wise one.You talk in the thread of Perry and cline pumps,what are they,what motivates them to pump, and who sells them?
08-29-2006, 07:49 PM
#4427
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NearBy,
AZ
Posts: 2,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: William Robison
Latest version of Saito Notes is dated 8/27 – ping me if you want an update.
Bill.
[/b]
Latest version of Saito Notes is dated 8/27 – ping me if you want an update.
Bill.
[/b]
Thanks Bill
IC #19
08-29-2006, 08:06 PM
#4428
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Nashua,
NH
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Replacing a spray bar on a Saito 100, in the bag there are two o-rings the large one goes under the spring on the outside, but where does the small one go? Did not notice the small o ring when disasemblying, but might have got lost.
08-29-2006, 08:13 PM
#4430
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
There's a small thin O ring that goes under the spring on the outside. Then there is one that is smaller in daimeter but thicker that goes (inside the spraybar where the needle valve sticks in.)
The part in Italics is wrong. See my clarification in my next post below.
Jim
The part in Italics is wrong. See my clarification in my next post below.
Jim
08-29-2006, 08:17 PM
#4431
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: , AZ
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
hi saito club. i was wondering if some one can help me with a engine for my carl goldberg yak 54 . right now im running a o.s. 1.60 2 stoke and i cant pull out of a hover .
i was thinking of trying the saito 220 but for that price i have to be positive its the right engine .the plane with the 1.60 in it is between 13 and 14lb .
i was thinking of trying the saito 220 but for that price i have to be positive its the right engine .the plane with the 1.60 in it is between 13 and 14lb .
08-29-2006, 08:27 PM
#4432
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
David:
The little hair thin o-ring is the one that goes under the clicker spring, you should find the o-ring that seals the needle is already installed. As a guess I’d say the larger o-ring is a replacement for the intake pipe seal, but I’m not sure. Depends on how large it is. W8YE could well be right. I’ve only bought the spray bars as part of the upgrade kit, the upgrade kits include only the tiny one.
Mike:
The Cline and Iron Bay are both demand type regulator systems.
IC and Fly:
Notes on the way.
Bill.
The little hair thin o-ring is the one that goes under the clicker spring, you should find the o-ring that seals the needle is already installed. As a guess I’d say the larger o-ring is a replacement for the intake pipe seal, but I’m not sure. Depends on how large it is. W8YE could well be right. I’ve only bought the spray bars as part of the upgrade kit, the upgrade kits include only the tiny one.
Mike:
The Cline and Iron Bay are both demand type regulator systems.
IC and Fly:
Notes on the way.
Bill.
08-29-2006, 08:33 PM
#4433
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NearBy,
AZ
Posts: 2,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Sorry about your ears Bill 
That was quick...
Your collection of notes is really becoming something... 48 pages of most excellent information...
Thanks you for all the time and effort you put into this for us...
IC
That was quick...
Your collection of notes is really becoming something... 48 pages of most excellent information...
Thanks you for all the time and effort you put into this for us...
IC
08-29-2006, 09:09 PM
#4434
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hobbsy- ok, thanks. I'll have to start experimenting with them if I can find a good spinner with a metal backplate for 3 blades.
Bill- the downline braking is a big plus for pattern. I agree with the undisturbed air and gyroscopic precession. They do smooth things out.
My OS is based on FreeBSD; the latest version of OS X. I haven't done much thru Terminal yet, but I like learning the commands. One of the big problems with Commodore was the awkward way to load programs, imo. Plus, the disk drive system was atrocious with the heads being knocked out of alignment. I know that I could use minus tracks on the 800 series, and one drive on the ST would go 3 minus tracks. The Atari had the Happy Computing daughter FDCs that would write eliptical tracks and all other known copy protection except true fuzzy sectors. Another solder in systems software was hacked to work with the Happy drives to do those. I also had system monitors wired into mine so that I could hit the interrupt switch and be in the program as it was executing at the assembly level. Atari DOS was better because you could program it. I had an 800 series with 700+ kb of RAM and had to reprogram the DOS to write 8k pages to RAM in blocks. I could use it all then.
Bill- the downline braking is a big plus for pattern. I agree with the undisturbed air and gyroscopic precession. They do smooth things out.
My OS is based on FreeBSD; the latest version of OS X. I haven't done much thru Terminal yet, but I like learning the commands. One of the big problems with Commodore was the awkward way to load programs, imo. Plus, the disk drive system was atrocious with the heads being knocked out of alignment. I know that I could use minus tracks on the 800 series, and one drive on the ST would go 3 minus tracks. The Atari had the Happy Computing daughter FDCs that would write eliptical tracks and all other known copy protection except true fuzzy sectors. Another solder in systems software was hacked to work with the Happy drives to do those. I also had system monitors wired into mine so that I could hit the interrupt switch and be in the program as it was executing at the assembly level. Atari DOS was better because you could program it. I had an 800 series with 700+ kb of RAM and had to reprogram the DOS to write 8k pages to RAM in blocks. I could use it all then.
08-29-2006, 10:04 PM
#4438
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Reef WA, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: William Robison
For ALL:
Latest version of Saito Notes is dated 8/27 – ping me if you want an update.
Bill.
For ALL:
Latest version of Saito Notes is dated 8/27 – ping me if you want an update.
Bill.
Me too please Bill!!
Thunderchild
08-29-2006, 11:38 PM
#4441
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 3,848
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
Does anyone know if the Castrol M actually says it mixes with methanol? It must though because it is being used that way.
Does anyone know if the Castrol M actually says it mixes with methanol? It must though because it is being used that way.
Castrol R has some additional mineral-based "friction modifiers" and stuff that causes it to separate out if you try to use it in glo fuel.
08-29-2006, 11:47 PM
#4442
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Reef WA, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: XJet
From memory, Castrol M *does* mix with methanol but its cousin, Castrol R does not.
Castrol R has some additional mineral-based "friction modifiers" and stuff that causes it to separate out if you try to use it in glo fuel.
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
Does anyone know if the Castrol M actually says it mixes with methanol? It must though because it is being used that way.
Does anyone know if the Castrol M actually says it mixes with methanol? It must though because it is being used that way.
Castrol R has some additional mineral-based "friction modifiers" and stuff that causes it to separate out if you try to use it in glo fuel.
TC
08-30-2006, 06:40 AM
#4443
Senior Member
My Feedback: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Staten Island,
NY
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Ok,OK, you have converted me, where can I buy this Klotz castor? Bill recommends 4% thats about 5oz. Is that correct and how do you mix it? Do I just pour it in and shake it around? Also what is the correct way to apply the ARO
08-30-2006, 07:14 AM
#4444
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Kemp, here is a link to Saito page #162, post 4035 is about my 2.20 using the optional larger bore carburetor.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33...62/key_/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33...62/key_/tm.htm
08-30-2006, 08:21 AM
#4445
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: JPal101
Ok,OK, you have converted me, where can I buy this Klotz castor? Bill recommends 4% thats about 5oz. Is that correct and how do you mix it? Do I just pour it in and shake it around? Also what is the correct way to apply the ARO
Ok,OK, you have converted me, where can I buy this Klotz castor? Bill recommends 4% thats about 5oz. Is that correct and how do you mix it? Do I just pour it in and shake it around? Also what is the correct way to apply the ARO
08-30-2006, 09:25 AM
#4446
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[b]From Saito Notes:
Order your copy today.
Bill.
After run oil – how the #% do I get it in the crankcase?
Some few twins have two crankcase ports, but none of the singles do. As a result when you try to force the ARO in it tends to blow back out. No problem.
Got a plastic squeeze bottle with a tapered spout, the sort that you put your tomato catsup or mustard in. Best if you can see the level of the contents. If the tip is small enough to go into the vent hose you’re done. If not a short length of brass tubing can be forced in the tip, or you can cut the tip back to get a larger diameter that will let you push the vent hose inside.
Fill it about ½ way with your favorite AR oil, and you are ready.
Pull the vent hose out the top of the plane, or if not convenient turn the plane over, just be sure the hose is pointing up. Attach your new oil bottle to the hose. Then holding the bottle with the tip down turn the engine slowly.
While the piston is going down in the bore you’ll see bubbles in the oil bottle, then when the piston is going up it will draw oil back into the engine. Keep turning until you have drawn an ounce or so of oil in. Unhook the bottle, turn the plane back upright (Or the hose back out the bottom) and spin the engine for a few seconds with your starter. This last will make sure the oil is run everywhere inside the engine, and blow any excess out.
Simple, isn’t it?
Some few twins have two crankcase ports, but none of the singles do. As a result when you try to force the ARO in it tends to blow back out. No problem.
Got a plastic squeeze bottle with a tapered spout, the sort that you put your tomato catsup or mustard in. Best if you can see the level of the contents. If the tip is small enough to go into the vent hose you’re done. If not a short length of brass tubing can be forced in the tip, or you can cut the tip back to get a larger diameter that will let you push the vent hose inside.
Fill it about ½ way with your favorite AR oil, and you are ready.
Pull the vent hose out the top of the plane, or if not convenient turn the plane over, just be sure the hose is pointing up. Attach your new oil bottle to the hose. Then holding the bottle with the tip down turn the engine slowly.
While the piston is going down in the bore you’ll see bubbles in the oil bottle, then when the piston is going up it will draw oil back into the engine. Keep turning until you have drawn an ounce or so of oil in. Unhook the bottle, turn the plane back upright (Or the hose back out the bottom) and spin the engine for a few seconds with your starter. This last will make sure the oil is run everywhere inside the engine, and blow any excess out.
Simple, isn’t it?
Bill.
08-30-2006, 10:52 AM
#4447
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NearBy,
AZ
Posts: 2,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I talked my vet out of a big syringe... Works great for "injecting" oil (into the engine ) and since it is graduated it is very easy to control the amount... The vets have the big syringes..
) and since it is graduated it is very easy to control the amount... The vets have the big syringes..
08-30-2006, 05:55 PM
#4448
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Here's my new stuff, the old spraybar was a bummer to get out, it had what appeared to be white loctite or similar and it was tough stuff. The new cam is in and appears to be timed right, I gave it the TDC on the exhaust stroke check. The cam profile on the intake cam is so much different that it is not an exact test. The carb had both a barrel guide screw and an idle speed adjustment screw. I cut the end off of the idle speed adjustment screw and then buried it in its screw hole.