UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I bought my first 2 Saito 125's. I want to put 4-bladed props on after I break in the engines. WHat prop size(s) would be recommended?

This is for a scale aircraft where speed is not an issue. I would prefer to use APC.

THanks,
Mike

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike, I did put a tiny bit of Blue LocTite on the phlange of the spraybar, none of the screws had LocTite on them. I did not fill the threads up with LocTite like the old spraybar was.

Barry, the old exhaust cam lobe is loose, what I thought was a worn out intake lobe is in fact a much more rounded cam profile, the new exhaust cam is sharp pointed and completely different looking than the intake cam.

glowstart

I am a proud owner of a new 150, putting it in a GB Sukhoi. Question: when the motor is mounted to the right, the NV faces the bottom. Any issues removing the carb body and rotating it 180 degrees so the NV faces up?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Just take out the two carb screws and turn it around, easy peazy.

Here are the results of my Saito 1.50 partial re-build, I used Teflon Plumbers tape on all muffler joints, I made a rope out of it for the muffler cap.

The last shot is my experimental better cam lube plumbing, it works. Pic #4 is left over parts, must be for some other Saito.

Prop===Graupner 16x8 2 blade
Fuel===WildCat 10% fuel with 18% 80/20 syn castor blend
Plug===Fox Miracle
RPM 8,725 peak.

jessiej

http://www.klotzlube.com/

jess

loughbd

You say that the only true pumps are from Perry. I guess that means the OS pumped engines aren't??

skillet92

Help!!
I have a Saito 125 in a Futana 100 and it runs fine, but i do not seem to be getting the best RPM. I am using a APC 16x4w and all i can seem to get out of it is 8800-8900. And the engine seems to lose a few hundred then pick back up off and on. It pulls the plane fine, but i see that the RPM range is 11,000 and 8900 seems low. I have almost a 1/2 gallon of fuel through it and the high speed needle is turned out 3 1/2 turns from closed and the engine seems to me that it gets very hot. It leaves a nice smoke trail!! Anyhelp would be nice!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Why are you running such a wimpy prop on it? A 15x8 is more like it.

skillet92

I want the pull of a 4w! I also have a 16x6 but i will get less RPM out of that.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Saito used to have the one-piece muffler for the smaller engines which was 1oz lighter than the new design. Just wondering why they made the change?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Some of those had the pressure tap blow out of them. I didn't weigh the old muffler or the new cast one for the 1.50, I may do it. The new cast muffler has a sharper more irritating sound than the old fire hose nozzle muffler, it was melow sounding.

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

I think this is whqat you are looking for,
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXS627&P=0[/link]

perkins9

PLEASE HELP
HAS ANY ONE RAN IN TO A PROBLEM LIKE THIS, I HAVE A SAITO FLAT 90 TWIN, OLDER STYLE WITH THE TWIN CARB IN THE SINGLE BLOCK MUCH LIKE THE NEW 100. MY RIGHT SIDE RUNS PERFECT NO PROBLEMS BUT THE LEFT SIDE I CAN START BY ITS SELF TUNE IT DECENT BUT NOT AS PERFECT AS THE RIGHT, AS SOON AS I START THE RIGHT SIDE THE LEFT SIDE STARTS POPPING AND FLAIRS OUT, IT WILL RUN AT FULL THROTTLE BUT AS SOON AS YOU COME DOWN TO AN IDLE THE LEFT SIDE QUITS. I TOOK IT APPART AND THERE OS NO DIFFERENCE IN APPERANCE FOR MAYBE BURNING OUT THE LEFT SIDE, THEY ARE NICE AND CLEAN AND LOTS OF COMPRESSION. IT SEEN TO BE A GRADUAL PROBLEM.

PLEASE HELP I MISS IT. THANK YOU
STACY PERKINS

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I have a question about the pushrods... Before I got on to Club Saito (I'm Saito #61, and thought I was a latecomer) I had rebuilt my Saito .56. I didn't realize that I should have kept the intake and exhaust pushrods separate.... they looked identical to me.

When I reassembled it, if I had swapped intake and exhaust pushrods, what problem(s) would it create? The valves were gapped properly afterwards.

Is there a way that I can tell the difference between the intake and exhaust pushrods? I looked for this info in the Saito Notes but could not find it. Bill, I'm PMing you for the latest and greatest, at your convenience....

Thanks,

Bob

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

N, as the pushrods wear at the ends they develope a wear pattern, they'll just wear in a new one, no biggy. You may have to adjust the lash a bit sooner but not much else will happen. Most important on the mid blocks is getting the pointed end up.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, Hobbsy.

I was wondering if there were separate intake and outlet pushrods. I might re-check the valve adjustment one more time, though.

Bob

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bob, when I put the new cam and lifters in my 1.50 above I lost track of which pushrod was which and which end was which, as you can see it runs fine. I'll reset the rockers after about 2 hours.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The big block Saito's pushrods are identical each end.

The small and medium block engine pushrods have a smaller diameter on one end that goes towards the rocker arm

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Hobbsby and W8YE,

I think that the wear-pattern answer was the one I was looking for. Being a .56, I've noticed the difference in the ends. I'll just have to be more careful next time regarding Intake and Exhaust for re-assembly.

Bob

gplarry

Has anyone tried using the kill switch on the transmitter to lower the compression in the big saitos to start them?

The 150's and 180's have some serious compression and can be too much for a standard starter.

The throttle barrel on the big saitos closes so well that the engine can not draw air.

Without being able to draw air to compress the engine has very little compression.

Some transmitters actually have a delay on the kill switch.

For those you can press the kill switch and while it is activated get the engine spinning with a starter.

When the kill switch releases the engine starts without kicking back.

For transmitters with no delay on the kill switch the process is a two person job.


Larry

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I think you'll find that the engine is not all the easy to turn over with the carb shut. That big piston is pulling against a huge vacuum.

gjeffers

my 180 starts easily with a standard starter as long as the prop is wound clockwise to compression before starting, if not there is no chance of it turning over

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

My experience with a small starter on a big Saito is that the prop will just flip back and forth between compression strokes.

I was using the cheaper Tower starter with the tower 12V gel cell emergency light battery

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJC35&P=ML

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSK07&P=7

I have bigger starters. I just thought I would try the small one

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

All small starters are not created equal? Which starter types are you guys using and what battery voltage?

gjeffers

here is what im using rajul.