rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Nice setup Gary. Similar to mine except that I have a long cable. A shorter cable will be better in giving less voltage drop

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Bill, I have a question. Does higher nitro% result in higher engine vibration?

oceansfiftyseven

Hello, I just broke in my new saito 40 with an 11x5 prop. I actually would like to use a 3-blabe master airscrew on my model due to ground clearance. I am about to order the prop but would like some input. Should I go with the 9x7 or 10x7? Thanks, Rich

TimC

oceanfiftyseven, I'm using a 9x7 on my 40. This works good on my Slow Poke without over-revving the engine. I haven't tried anything else.

oceansfiftyseven

Thanks Tim. I figured the 9x7 would be the right one but really was not sure. My 56 used to spin an 11x7 pretty well so I wasn't sure if I should't go with the 10x7 on the 40 but it is probably too much. Thanks, Rich

reyn3545

OK, Club Saito.. I have a question... this is my first Saito, I've broken it in according to recommendations with absolutely no problems. Today, I went for a final test in the back yard before taking the plane to the field, and for some reason, whenever the throttle is more than about half open, it sticks. It works fine with the engine off, but with the engine running it binds every time. I have to reach down and pull the throttle back to closed with my finger. This has never happened during an extensive break-in, so its pretty frustrating... any suggestions? The battery is fully charged, no binding of components, it just won't close under a load for some reason.

Oh, my second Saito is on the way... a 150 in a Lanier Ultimate Biplane!

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Hi all, I've been getting some time on my 45 and it is running great! One thing though, it runs mucho better when the temps are in the 80's and higher. When in the 50's-60's, the idle gets rough. If I lean the idle to run smooth, the transition suffers or the engine dies altogether. Transition is great when the engine is rich and rough on idle. My two strokes run best when temps are in the 50's. This engine may need some more break in time. I don't have much time on it and it was supposed to be fairly new when I got it 2nd hand.

It seems to make a bit more power when warm out also. Low 80's last night and it was running great and pulling the 4* well. Running 15% derived by mixing 10% sport and 20% YS/DZ fuel. The 10% sport is castor/syn blend. Both are Magnum brand.

I adjusted the valves a couple nights ago. How often should this be checked?

I will be getting an F plug, don't know what it has now. I'll check today. Any ideas on how to smooth out the idle a bit and keep my transition? It runs good, just not perfect yet.

Thanks in advance, MikeB

gjeffers

wmb,if it runs goood at warm temps and then you go out to cooler temps to fly you will need to richen it up according to the differance in temps, cooler air is denser and needs more fuel to have the correct mixture, just takes some practice, i adjust my saitos every time out.

scratchonly

Have you tried backing the barrel guide screw (the one with the spring under it) out a bit? The run-no run seems fishy.

loughbd

If it runs better in warmer weather, try running a hotter plug like an Enya#3 which is what I run or a bit more nitro. I have several Saito FS45's both with bolt on heads and with one piece cylinders. I run them all on 10%nitro fuel and 20%castor. 11-6 prop and Enya#3 plugs. haven't had any problems with them in 25 years.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I understand to richen when it gets colder and I do this on the hi speed needle. From about 1/4 throttle and higher it runs great. Below that it 'hammers'. I can minimize or eliminate the hammering at low idle by leaning the low speed. Again, it only hammers when the temps are on the cooler side. When I get rid of the hammering by adjusting low speed needle, it is too lean at midrange.

I just thought to put the glow ignitor on when it is hammering and see if that changes things. I'll try straight 20% also. I think the problem is early ignition and the igniting charge is fighting the piston coming up.

When I idle down to land, I can't hear the hammer noise- just putta putta putta. I think I just convinced myself it is an early timing problem. The airspeed at landing is helping to push the piston through the combustion cycle.

Now I am getting a headache- argh! Back to scraping and painting.

Thanks, MikeB

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My solution for the throttle linkage on the Saito 1.25 mounted on a Goldberg Tiger 120. There is a piece of Aerotrend Blue fuel tubing inside the servo arm/swing lever serving as a bushing, I've done this many times. The arm swings freely and smoothly yet with no play.

Ken6PPC

NICE solution!

Ken6PPC

PING!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Bruce:

Quote:

You say that the only true pumps are from Perry. I guess that means the OS pumped engines aren't??

We’re not talking about Oh Shoot engines here, we’re talking about what can be used with a Saito. Thanks anyway.

Skillet:

With ½ gallon of fuel burned your engine isn’t run in yet. Your LS is no doubt still rich. Give it another gallon or two, you’ll see it continue to run better. And I agree with Hobbsy about the prop – a 4” pitch is too low.

Mike:

The older mufflers were all machined, a lot of labor. The later ones are largely cast. Cheaper to make.

Perkins:

Adjust the valves carefully, set them to 0.0015” clearance. If the problem persists check the o-rings on both intake pipes, you may find a leak on the left side.

And turn off your caps lock, please.

gplarry:

Are you a Saito owner? Or merely entering the discussion?

Saito engines generally don’t start well cold without having the throttle about ¼ open and a sloppy prime. When warm starting at idle is no problem.

Mike:

Anything that increases the power is by definition generate higher torque peaks. So the simple answer is yes, higher nitro gives higher vibration.

The Sullivan “Hi-Tork” starter spins all my engines fine, except the Zenoah G-38.

reyn3545:

The only time I’ve seen a similar problem was using a cable link between the throttle and the servo, never with a straight wire link. With the engine off run the throttle to ½ way, hold the throttle lever with a finger and with the other hand move the throttle stick to idle. If the servo wont push your finger back you either have a bind in the linkage or the servo is just not strong enough.

MikeB:

Do try the “F” plug, and be patient. As the engine gets more time the idle will get better. Nitro at 15% should be plenty for a good idle, no real need to go higher.

Do remember the LS adjustment is primary up to ½ throttle, it still has effect to about ¾ throttle. Adjust the HS needle ONLY at full throttle.

Pop the rocker covers before you go out for a flying session and give the rockers a wiggle. You’ll get a feel for what is right (just barely feel a wiggle) as you keep doing it. Another reason for popping the covers is to oil the valve gear. Some Saitos will oil the overhead fine, others tend to run dry. If yours stays wet you can do the wiggle test once a month and be OK. If yours is one that tends to stay dry keep lubing the rockers before each session. You can use your after run oil for this.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

New members:

373 glowstart
374 perkins9
375 reyn3545

Welcome all.

Bill.

Ron McGrath

My Feedback: (10)

I have not found a 4cycle that does not flip start. The procedure might be slightly different but most will start with just twisting the spinner with your fingers. I have not owned a starter in over 10 years.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

MikeB,

To sorta confirm what others have already said, I had a similar problem with my Saito .82. Someone suggested checking the LS needle. When I did, I found that, somehow, I had adjusted it out by about 5 turns. Waaaaaay too much. I adjusted it back in and readjusted the engine again, and it went away.

Try double-checking the LS needle to see how far you happen to have it out.

Bob

loughbd

I own a starter or two but almost never use them. Usually only on little engines smaller than 25.

Dave :^)

Hi all,
visited Graves RC in Orlando and come home with a FA-80GK, it's going into the Harmon Rocket III so the FA-65 will be back to it's other home in a Flair SE5a.
Thanks to those in another thread who recommended them. That's another in the stable Bill.
Dave :^)

eclecticant

My Feedback: (10)

TO WILLIAM ROBINSON

I HAVE A NEW OLD STOCK SAITO 150[1999] I THINK. dO YOU THINK IT WILL PULL A ZIROLI STERRMAN OK , Its a 77 inch at 19 pounds

ken

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I tried it again tonight with some YS 20/20 fuel and it seemed to really like that. It was noticably worse with the 15% and my 2nd flight ended in a deadstick. The sun was setting so I called it a night. It does have an F plug. It was not too cool tonight, the idle seems worse when it's colder.
William, I have a feeling you are correct in beleiving it just needs more run time. The low speed screw is difficult to turn. I will remove it for inspection.
Thanks all, MikeB

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Eclectic:

Your engine will no doubt fly the plane, but a 19 pound biplane isn’t going to be a rocket.

Probably a bit more than scale power, but no thrilling long extended verticals for you.

Should be a nice sport aerobat, but not a sparkling performer.

And you’re in Club Saito as member number 376. Welcome.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

MikeB:

The idle screw is supposed to be difficult to turn – if it’s loose it wont hold its setting.

Remember please, adjust the HS needle only at full throttle, lean the LS for best idle. Then gradually richen the LS for good transition.

Once the LS is set it will rarely need to be touched, though the HS may need a tweak now and then for temperature and humidity changes.

Bill.

Tjen il-vec

Hey all,

Changed my reply into a topic. My apologies for breaking into a live thread [8D]


cheers

Tjen il-Vec