w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It may have back fired?

loughbd

It's really called the exhaust pipe or exhaust manifold

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Muffler Manifold (Cast):FA65-10


$9.75 [SAI8075B)


Flexible Exhaust Pipe,12mm


$55.96 [SAI65111]

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

When the low speed needle on your Saito is wrong,
your flights will be nerve wracking and your day will be long

When the low speed needle on your Saito is right,
your idle will be slow and your prop load seem light

When your low speed needle setting is lame,
O-rings and timing are accused falsely for the blame.

So, don't blame your Saito or any of its parts,
set your needles correctly for fast easy starts

Don't come across as a knowledgeless geek,
searching your engine for an imaginary leak.

Turn those needles til they reach their peak,
your Saito will luv ya and go like a streak. DWH

scratchonly

Hobbsy

I finally received the 80 carb upgrade after a 1 month wait. The only difference I can see is a finer taper on the HS needle and a shoulder on same. Do you know of any other difference? I'going to try it now; I'll let you know.

scratchonly

Hobbsy

Installed the kit.

Ran the 80 with a 13x7 prop as opposed to the 14x6 on previous tests. Got the idle to 2400 on the lighter prop inverted, the hi RPM hit 1100 before I quickly backed off. The HS adjustment seems broader than before; did you find this? I can't lean the LS any further without affecting the ability to richen the HS. Transition is great. I think overall there is an improvement.

Thanks for all your help over this prolonged period. That is what makes our hobby great.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Bill and Hobbsy,
Sorry I haven't posted for awhile, been under the weather for quite awhile [&o]. I have kind of a dilemma in that I have a UCD 60 kit and a Mayhem 60 kit on the shelf that need to be built. I'll probably build the Mayhem first and that being said I'll need an engine. For the record I don't really care about hovering or all out 3D type flying, just goofing around and sport flying is fine for me. I thought about another FA-100, but am concerned that the bearing rusting could still be a problem with our humidity here. Ditto with the FA-125a as the bearings are probably the same. I'd like to hear some pros and cons from both of you about which engine would be more suitable for the airframes that I have mentioned. Other members that have experience with these engines are welcome to comment as well. I'll be using Powermaster 20/20 fuel with castor added per Bill's earlier recommendation and an OS F plug.

scratchonly

I have a 120 in a 10 lb 60" pitts. It is a stump puller.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Scratch, I didn't notice much difference on the parts in the .80 other than the slower taper. The shoulder is most likely the result of a deeper cut on the needle to make the taper longer. The 1.50 kit had a smaller diameter passage inside the spray bar.

Stoney, I always opt for the larger engine when there is a choice, because someday I know I'll (and you'll) want the 1.00 to be a 1.25. Both are smiler engines that make you grin each time you run them. I ran my 1.00 today with a Graupner 14x7 and Fox 5% nitro fuel/20% castor with excellent results, 9,300 top rpm and 1,825 idle, not bad. While that is an excellnt idle I'd fly it at a 2,000 rpm idle. This was with a Fox Miracle plug. If you pick up some Corrosion X and shoot it in the vent tube at the end of the day, you'll never experience rust, ever.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=biggrin.gif] Rhymes like a Saito

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

How can I keep a silicon exhaust extension attached to the muffler of my Saito 150 ? I tried roughening up the muffler a bit with some course sand paper, but still It seems that no matter how tight I put the tie wraps around silicon extension, it kicks it off after a couple minutes of flying [:@]

Anyone have any ideas ?

Thanks,

JettPilot

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

JettPilot,
How about drilling a small hole and using a small sheet metal screw?

Hobbsy,
I used to load the 100 up with Marvel air tool oil after making sure it was run dry. Horizon replaced the first set of bearings under warranty. They charged me for the second set even though the engine was still under warranty saying it was my fault. To your knowledge was this problem short lived and has it been corrected, or is the bearing material still suspect? Where can I pick up some of that Corrosion X, or will Mercury outboard fogging oil work as well? Thanks....

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Stoney, I get my Corrosion X from Sheldons in Calif.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

For those 3D flyers running Saito 125 on 15% fuel, which is your best prop? I'm looking at APC 16x4w, 16.5x5w, or the 17x4w.

Dave :^)

GULP! or should that be SIP?
just ran second tank through my new FA-80, the tank by the way is in my Seagull Harmon Rocket, you know the one the two stroke boys all want to replace with a bigger one! Well... at a steady 4000 rpm on a 13x8 it has just run the tank dry in 1 hour 18 mins! And NO I have not run it lean, loads of oil from the exhaust and the breather.
Impressed? not really, it is a Saito after all!
Dave :^)

scratchonly

Try a screw type pipe clamp. They come in all sizes, maybe a 1/2 or 5/8 would do.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Plugs used in my Saitos and thread count. From front to back, note how the thread count decreases after the H9 SuperPlug. That is one of the reasons I settled on the Fox Miracle as my plug of choice. for four strokes and big two strokes. All of the plug shoulders where the gasket goes are against the edge of the ruler.

Fox Miracle, used by far the most
H9 SuperPlug
OS-f
Saito plug currently supplied with the engine
Glo-Devil 4C special.

les40

My Feedback: (1)

I'm getting detonation at idle speed with my Saito 180. I am running 30% heli fuel. I richened up the low speed mixture and it seemed to help but I was still getting it. Any ideas?

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Hobbsy and All,
Ordered my Fa-125a yesterday from the LHS and even received a $30.00 discount . It is supposed to be in town on Friday, so my question now without researching the whole thread is what props are being used with the most success on this engine?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

All:

I’ve just added a section on cam wear to Saito Notes, so the 8/27 version is now out of date. If you have the 8/27 version you can cut and paste this following into your copy and be up to date, or you can just ping for a new complete edition.


-----------------------------------------
Cam wear
The engine’s power is enhanced by the maximum open duration, meaning the least valve clearance we can use. This can affect the idle, but normally the effect is minor at most.

Wear? Let’s suppose you have a landing strip with a 20 foot hill right in the middle. On take off, with the plane accelerating along the ground it will roll up the hill with no problem, and if not yet to flying speed will roll smoothly down the back side. This can be likened to the tappets with minimum clearance. When you land, if you touch down on the flat before the hill you still have no problem. On the other hand, if you come in at a four foot altitude your touch down on the slope of the hill will test your landing gear at best, at ten feet altitude you will probably have to get out your glue before flying again. This is an analogue to loose valve clearance, and these early cam grinds work best with no more than ½ thousandth inch clearance.

Now let’s suppose someone has built up a four foot rise from the flat part, with a few feet of level runway between the four foot rise and the rest of the upslope of the hill. Now, if you come in with the four feet altitude you’ll touch on that short level area, and again roll gently up the hill. This is like the later cams that have a quieting ramp, and should be set at 0.04 mm clearance.

All current Saito cams have quieting ramps. Sad to say, the only way to tell the old and new grinds apart is to degree the cam lift, the ramp will show in the profile graph.

Now we’ll forget about airstrips with hills in the middle, and get to the cams and valve gear.

With the clearance set to the minimum the tappets are accelerated smoothly up the ramp, with minimum forces on the face of the tappet. With looser clearance the tappet will be hitting the side of the lobe, with much higher contact pressure. Granted, the tappet may be touching the base circle of the cam, but the clearance in the valve train still has to be taken up before the valve opens, any excess clearance will cause much higher contact pressure when the valve does start opening. This is like landing on the up slope of our hill.

The problem is made worse by the increasing use of pure synthetic oils, their film strength is not sufficient to prevent penetration of the oil film, an amount metal is scoured from the face of the cam lobe with every operating cycle. The end result is large pits in the surface of the cam. Castor oil has a much higher film strength, using castor oil (or a castor blend) will decrease the rate of damage, but it will still happen over a period of time.
So, keep the valves set at 0.04 mm for best power and engine life.
-----------------------------------------------
Helipakter:

You are on the rolls as member number 378 in Club Saito. Glad to have you. And as W8YE said, a new throttle arm is cheap. Just be sure the set screw being loose isn’t your problem.

Bill.

daniel9314

SAITO 100 issue?

This is a used engine I purchased on a plane. When I removed the prop, i see a "sleeve" or "collar" on the crankshaft, extending 5mm past the drive nut. It appears to be aluminum? From the parts diagram, it looks like there is a collar inside the front bearing that has come forward? Does not push back, easily anyway. My 82 has no such thing. Engine seemed to run fine for the short time I ran it?


It also had a 15x8 on it - too much prop - H9 P-51?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Stoney, I just put mine on a Goldberg 120 Tiger, I removed it today to try a 14x7 3 blade, both MasterAirscrew and Graupner, it runs really smooth with a Graupner 15x8 two blade. I hope to fly it Monday let you know which prop I like best in flight, if I can tell any difference.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Daniel,

There is no such part that comes from Horizon on the 100. It is probably a bushing for the spinner back plate?

There is a tapered collet inside the drive washer that is brass.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Hobbsy,
Thanks, I have an APC 16 X 4W and a 16.5 X 5W on the shelf. Hoping I could use one of those on the Mayhem as to avoid having to buy another.

Bill R,
Thanks for the quick e-mail response .

daniel9314

Well I feel stupid, it certainley is a bushing for the spinner! its on there tight...

Anyone running a 15x8 on the 100?