mstcitabria

Nice looking stash Bill...............mstcitabria

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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More likely, it had a fault in the casting at that point, such as a bubble.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Artisan:

Ed, the possibility of a casting fault is why I said Horizon might give him some help. I should have made it plain, thank you for doing so.

All:

Here are some of my planes running three bladed props. Left to right, top row first.
C-3/10 twin, 10x6 Zinger, Magnum XL46 engines, 105 mph in level flight.
UltraStick 120, 14x8 MAS, does very well.
RCM 40, 10x6 Zinger, Magnum XLS40, will lop from level flight.
Eaglet, 7x4 MAS (cut from 8x4), Magnum 25GP, no lack of power.
Diablo 40, 11.5x8 Graupner, K&B 61, will take off vertically out of my hand.

Tiggerkitty twin, 5x4 Cox, AMD 0.061 engines. This is the only one where performance suffers with the three blade prop.

Bill.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Bill,
Where are all of the Saito's .

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

WR,

Do you know if the relative efficiency of the various propellers in your posted list applies to various sizes of propellers, within a model line, from a particular manufacturer? Or, was the information in the list generated by one propeller size from the various manufacturers? That is, may one correctly infer, from the list, relative efficiency of different sizes from the listed manufacturers?

I think wooden propellers are pretty, and I like my fingers.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Stoney:

I’m a little ashamed to admit it, but at the moment I only have five Saito engines in planes.

You saw the UltraStick in my last post, my 96” Cessna T-50 has a pair of FA-120s (picture), and the other two are FA-82s in the Twin-Air 60. I don’t have a picture of the completed plane (it’s not finished) but here’s one nacelle in the second picture.

Bill.

solafein

I don't remember where I found it but, there is a free download somewhere on RCU for a program named Thrust HP. The average modeller can get more information than he(she) will ever need off of it. You can compare theoretical numbers all day and still need to put it on the plane to find out if it is correct.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Sol:

Thrust HP can be downloaded here: http://www.bmaps.net/ (click on “Goodies”) but it’s not very good at all. It has no allowance for different brands, nor can you input the pitch of the prop. It’s a toy, not a tool.

Bill.

solafein

The version I have, V2.0d, has a few manufactures, diam, pitch and the rest is trivia.

stallwart

You must have guessed I was considering a 3-blade for the plane.

Sadly, an editing error in radio settings made before a flight caused the demise of the plane on takeoff (should read: maladjusted operator headspace).

I'm not certain if I managed to completely cut the throttle before hitting dear old Mother Earth, but the APC prop was broken (at the hub) and I fear engine damage.

JPal101

My Feedback: (32)

Bill

One more question about the Klotz Benol, . I like to run my engines on the rich side the issue is that the residue is dark almost black. Normally I would think that I was running too lean but I know that is not the case. Is this the way Klotz burns?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Rim:

Pe Reivers, from whom I got the prop thrust spreadsheet model that includes these numbers, is a pretty sharp character. I can’t imagine he would have tested only one or two props before setting the ratios, but I still think they are generalized – one APC might be better than another, so forth. The APC rating is the average APC, the Zinger rating is the average Zinger, etc.

StallW:

Sorry about the plane, it looked nice in the picture. Can you fix it? I’ve gone to the point once or twice that I had to glue splinters for a pattern to cut new parts. That RCM 40 is one, I put it into the runway at full throttle inverted, scattered parts for 100 yards, still fixed it.

JP:

If you are running a high percentage of castor it’s not unusual to get black residue, it’s the same coking that sometimes covers the exhaust valve stem. At 4% you can still get some black, but there shouldn’t be a lot. Is the oil from the case vent also black? If yes there’s something wrong inside the engine. If the vent oil is clear I wouldn’t worry about it.

Bill.

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

Bill, do you have any thoughts on my Saito 100?
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3306814/anchors_4722717/mpage_176/key_/anchor/tm.htm#4722717[/link]

The noise also happens on the ground. My two Saito 82's have never made a sound like this and the 100 has always made it. I am the original owner and went through the stated breakin. Since it is under warrenty, I am thinking of sending it back to Saito unless you have some ideas?
Thanks
Al

DandGMartin

Rajul, William Robison and Artisan
Thanks, for replying to my question concerning my fractured FA80. I see that I said part of the case fell off. I meant to say that part of the cylinder fell off. That would reinforce possible prior crash damage. It reminded me that once years ago I put a K&B 61 in full power into a concrete walk and it seared the case completely off just above the crank. It mades a great engine mounting template and a way to mount the spinners to fare them in with the nose blocks. And thanks WR for the saito club number 381. I'll proceed to see if Horizon has a cylinder for it.
Don

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

WR,

Thank you, rlmcnii

huck328

My Feedback: (4)

I had a small mishap with my 125. Any guesses on what this might cost to have fixed? Is this something I should try to fix myself? I own no fancy machine shop straightening tools, nor tools to precisely measure straightness or length to check spec which parts are messed up. Who would be best (costwise and dependability-wise) to send it to for repair?

Obvious issues
- the muffler ripped out part of the threads in the head
- the intake is crushed
- one of the pushrod tubes is bent

What else is likely to be busted? It was on my Funtana 90 on flight #68 (about 7 gallons through the new engine). I had just lifted off and reached my fat thumb over to trim my elevator and I bumped the power switch off on my TX. It went in at about 1/2 throttle from about 150 feet at a 30 degree decline. It took me roughly 2 seconds of stupor after the crash to realize that I had bumped the off switch. Thank you for any advice (besides "quit flying, you Saito-trashing, $339 wasting fool.")

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Al:

Sorry, I thought that one had been answered. Let me cogitate about it, I’ll get back to you.

Huck:

You have my sympathy, I know it hurts.

Be grateful that it hit in the dirt. Looks like there’s no spinner damage beyond a scrape, so the crank and bottom end are most likely OK. The p/rod and intake tubes aren’t expensive to replace, but I would straighten the p/r tube and try the intake before buying new.

The cylinder is the part that will cost, new about $90 or send it to Clarence Lee, he’ll put an insert in for about $30 plus postage if you pull the cylinder off. He will do it from an assembled engine, but he charges a little more that way. No web site, you can call him or write:

Lee Custom Engines
10112 Woodward Ave.
Sunland, Calif. 91040
(818 352-3766

You might also ask if he would replace the p/r tube and the intake pipe – he’d probably want you to gt the parts and send them with the engine.

Bill.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Bill, is the coking on the stem an indication of too much castor? In regular servicing, what is the best way to remove this from the stem?

What are the possible things inside the engine that can cause black vent oil?

Thx

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Boy... you really tortured that engine...does that make you a Saito Masochist?
Sorry...I saw that somewhere (on another site ) and just had to find an excuse to use it...

stallwart

Geez Huck! My crash looks like a door ding in comparison. Sorry for your loss.

WR, I won't be rebuilding the Spit; I'm not a balsa farmer, and don't have time/skill to repair. It was a cheap Arf and I bought two because of the low price. The first was a testbed for my first 4-stroke that served it's purpose. Were it not for a "loose nut behind the wheel," it would still be intact.

Good news! After inspection, the FA-82A seems to have survived with no ill effects.

XJet

Well the airframe damage will probably buff right out if you use a bit of cutting paste and elbow-grease :-)

Bill has given you the good oil on what it'll take to fix the motor up. If it were me, I'd be tempted to check that the crank isn't bent before I decided whether to fix it or replace it and keep the old one for spares.

You can check for a bent crank without the need for any "fancy" gear.

What's a crank worth Bill?

Of course if the crank is bent then it'd also pay to do the bearings as well -- starts to get a bit spendy doesn't it?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Huck:

Your FA-125. Parts listings and prices straight from Horizon:
$93.59 [SAI125A01] Cylinder
$67.99 [SAI125A23] Crank shaft
$7.95 [SAI90TS40] Push rod tube set, with seals
$23.39 [SAI125A69] Intake pipe
$4.99 [SAI125A32] Gasket set
$13.78 [SAI120S20A] Bearing, front
$11.35 [SAI120S22] Bearing, rear
$7.99 freight

Total is $231.03, but I would spend a little more (about $35) and get the ceramic bearings. That cuts us to $205.90 from Horizon, about $240 total.

If these numbers scare you, pack it up and send it to me. I’ll send you a check (or PayPal if you prefer) for $100, that will give you a start on buying a new one. Bet I can fix it for about $50, certainly no more than $80 total. But I could lose the bet too.

Bill.

PS: I'll want the stock muffler and head pipe included with the engine. wr.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

Coking the exhaust valve stem is normal when some castor is used, but with only 4% I’ve never had one with enough deposits to worry about.

Black from the case vent is usually aluminum, either the con rod on the crank pin, or with a loose rear bearing the rod can hit the inside of the crank case. If you are getting black from the vent it’s time to pull the engine down and find what’s causing it before it gets a lot more expensive.

StallW:

Glad yours is OK, not like Huck’s engine.

Bill.

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Hi WR,

I always sand the sharp edges off my APC props , I try not to change the shape to much, but I have never been confortable either with the razor sharp flashing edges that those props come with [&:].

I am suprised to see those figures from "Prop-Power" [X(] I wonder if they are Very accurate ? I used to be a Die hard wood prop user, as they are easier on the engine in a crash which I like.. But when I tried APC I got better climb, speed, and acceleration and all around performance and never looked back


JettPilot

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

I thought the black out the vent was normal [:@][&:][:@][&:][:@][&:][:@][&:]

Mine is not totally black, but my case discharge oil looked "dirty" in the first gallon of breakin, does this indicate a problem [sm=confused.gif]

JettPilot