William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

I mentioned OS as a joke responding to JettPilot’s post, and Bruce went off. Delete all the OS posts, if you have “Mod Power” here. Or maybe W8YE Jim will do it for us.

Bill.

stallwart

Bought my third Saito today--another FA82a. I now have some "off brand" 2 and 4 stroke engines for sale--except for my OS--EEK!---I said it---Wankel.
I also have a 40" DR.1 project in mind for my FA30. Any new tips or tips posted in the past will be appreciated.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

I mentioned OS as a joke responding to JettPilot’s post, and Bruce went off. Delete all the OS posts, if you have “Mod Power” here. Or maybe W8YE Jim will do it for us.

Bill.

PS: Sorry, I just thought I had forgotten to copy this one from my editor, didn't realize the deletions had been done. Kill this and the following post too, please. wr.

PPS:Bruce, $25 isn't an offer. $75 might be. try it. Money and ghe mouth, remember. wr.

loughbd

And you will notice that Willie was deleted too. Seems only fair seeing as you can't tell when he's "joking" and when he's not. See post 8486. Oh and Bruce didn't "go off". And the offer still stands, 25 bucks. You should be happy to get rid of it.

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

Bill

I appreciate you lending me your ear. The knock is more pronounced in person then as heard in the MP3. And I never would have guessed it to be the prop. To me it is objectionable since I really like the sound of a 4-stroke and the Top Flight takes something away from that. So I think I will try some other props. I know the uneven RPM at full throttle requires some mixture changes, then I am sure the MP3 will make the top 10 on the Saito Billboard list.

Thanks again

Al

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bill, any comments on the use of carb or fuel injector cleaners? Thx

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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Every time I read this column in the past, I kept getting a strangely familiar feeling. I finally figured out what it was.

I worked as an auto mechanic at a local garage before attending electronics school in the early Seventies. That was where I worked on my first VW Beetle. Being used to working on American cars only, I was caught by surprise by the fact that Volkswagen didn't make only yearly changes, but they also made a change whenever they felt like it. You had to be cognizant of this fact or you could strand some poor woman on the Beltway around Washington, D.C by using the wrong set of points that eventually shorted out and killed the engine. Talk about feeling like a complete idiot!

Anyway, it is good that they make the changes when the need is recognized.

Oh, I just noticed that Horizon Hobby's owners are opting out and are offering the company to their employees, as the Tower folks just did. Strange Days we live in.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike (and others):
Injector cleaner? Some of them actually work, but they have to be used in a pressure bottle and fed into the fuel system in place of the normal gasoline feed to work effectively. And far more injection system “Cleanings” are sold at $100 a pop than are needed. “Doesn’t that sound a lot better?” asks the garage man. With some high grade lab instruments you might notice a difference. The real change is your wallet being $100 lighter. A really high mileage car that has spent its life in town on cheap gas might be helped, but for the average car it’s a waste of money.

About 20 or 25 years back we were having problems with deposits on the intake valve stems of the four cylinder BMW engines. No chemical cleaner was found that would work satisfactorily, we ended making a portable blasting machine. Pulled the intake manifold off, then using walnut shells as media we could clean the valve stems.
Injector cleaner, as sold by the average shop, is little more than snake oil. But there are times when it does work, and makes a difference. It does not work for heavy deposits, and it has to be run through the fuel system in place of gasoline, as I said before.

With all this in mind I tend to think it would be snake oil for a model engine too, but if Clarence Lee says it works give it a shot. At worst it’ll just put more carbon deposits in the engine. I can’t see it doing any real harm.

Bill.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bill, is there any good reason why the throttle valve of the FA-125 does not have a spring? Can a spring be installed? Any other Saitos that comes without a spring?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

When the FA-125 hit the market we had a discussion about the lack of a spring on the throttle barrel. As memory serves, it was Hobbsy who first mentioned it.

At that time I said it would seem to be proof of the excellent machine work done by Saito, allowing the fit of the barrel guide pin to be good enough to prevent barrel end play and the consequent mixture variation.

After consideration I changed my view. There if, after all, always wear between two surfaces rubbing. When the wear has loosened the match the mixture variations will show up. An added spring will slow the wear by preventing the barrel from hammering on the pin from normal vibration, I think a spring should be added before the wear becomes excessive.

I do not have an FA-125 yet, so I don’t know if one can be fitted easily. I do have one on the way, when it gets here I’ll check, and report.

Bill.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I just bought a SA90R3 as being new in box. I saw no reason to think otherwise of the purchase.

But the first thing I noticed was the lack of a barrel spring. It shows a spring on the Horizon parts site but there wasn't a spring in my carburetor. The engine appears to be four or five years old. Right now the fit is tight enough that the mixture regulation would not be significantly bothered but I don't know about in the future. I'll get a spring for it on my next order to Horizon.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Bill, pls do. I'm thinking of doing it right away. Engine version "A" on top of mount "T" at the bottom. Is this the same carb used for the FA-100? Just wondering what the right part number might be for the spring, since it is not reflected on the parts list for the FA-125.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Mike,

If you remove your carb barrel and look on the back side... If it has a recess for the spring, the 91 spring should work fine.

The 100 uses the same spring as the 91.

You can look at the picture of the 100 barrel in the parts section at the Horizon site and see the recess I'm talking about. On the 125 parts, they show the other end of the barrel.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Jim, do you have the instructions on how to open the carb, and reassemble it? Any need for loctite? Thx

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There's no need for loctite.

There's just the retainer screw that goes in the barrel cam slot.

This hex head screw has a lock washer underneath it.

It takes a 4mm wrench to fit the head of the screw.

When you are re-assembling the screw, you must align the slot with the screw to get it back together correctly.

The 125 uses the same spray bar as the 91 so I'm sure the 91 spring will work.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Jim, is this the correct part http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI91S90

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That will work fine but I think there is a cheaper listing of just the spring and two O rings farther down the list near the bottom.

Note... I looked and you have the best one

Jim

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Jim, how does the spring go into the carb? Broad end first?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've been putting them in big end first because the little end seemed to fit the recess in the barrel

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I found a slightly cheaper set meant for the FA-100 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI100TI90 I suppose it is the same spring for the FA-91, and that it will work with the FA-125?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I agree with Jim, the big end fits over the phlange on the spray bar and logic says the small end should contact the hardest metal surface since the spring is not going to rotate with the barrel.

Mike, neither my 1.25 nor my 2.20 came with the barrel springs. I ordered the larger carb for the 2.20 and it had no barrel spring either. I don't see that as a concern.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Hobbsy, given that the carb machining tolerances are the same, I find it hard to understand why Saito includes the carb spring in some and leaves it out in the others. I find that the slight spring tension in the carb barrel helps to minimise any effects of backlash in the throttle linkange/servo, and that helps to keep a consistent idle speed. Of course, some have mentioned the possibility of "chattering" wear in the barrel assembly.

Ray44

My Feedback: (4)

Greetings All, I've come across a Saito 45, guess there were a couple/three version and don't know which one mine is.
The engine has all the appearances of being in excellent condition.

So I've installed it in a Taube and the fuel inlet nipple is so close to the firewall that it'd be a real pain to fuel this up.
I will not use a tee! I don't want to move the engine forward.

I'm not aware of any 90 degree nipples but could be wrong.

I’ll just bet that if I heated the nipple with a torch and tried to bend it maybe 30 degrees, I’d break it, so very reluctant to try that.

What are my options??

Your thoughts/suggestions very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Ray

donkey doctor

Hello; I had a look at my Saito 45s and I think that the collar that the fuel nipple attaches to will rotate. Loosen off the nut that is closest to the niple and see if you can twist the nipple to where you want it. The reason I think that the collar will turn is; each of my 45's carb nipple is in a slightly different position. If you have the 45s then the nipple points straight up, and can't be moved, it has the same carb as the later 50's and 56's. You can always cut the fuel pressure line and put a piece of brass tubing in the joint where you can get at it easily.

Ray44

My Feedback: (4)

donkey doctor, Just went back and took another look at my 45, son of a gun, there is a nut there and it holds the needle valve tension spring in place. Perhaps by loosening that I'll be able to rotate the nipple into an upright position. Will give it a try shortly.

Wonder how I can tell what model 45 mine is, any idea??

Many Thanks, sure hope this works,
Ray