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Old 12-20-2020, 02:05 PM
  #49226  
Jesse Open
 
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
There's something I never do anymore ie run gummed engines. Good way to bevel the sides of tappets and buff off one side of the ring. Seen it happen many times. Just anicdotal, I know.

With 4 strokes if they're gummed at all they get disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, concentrating especially on getting the ring, ring groove, tappets and their bores, valve seats, valves and their guides spotless clean before restarting. Some may see this as overkill but it can save time, money and frustration.

Note the qualifying " SOMETIMES". I am talking about engines that are just a bit sticky. Certainly not a goobered up gumball.

So far,Xylene has proven to be an excellent solvent for the engines like you are talking about. Yes, I disassemble those too. If I were half the idiot you play me out as, I would have given up flying before you started
Old 12-20-2020, 03:48 PM
  #49227  
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Since when does the opinion of one person implicate the other as an idiot? After all we're just here to share our experiences and opinions. As I said and as you've said so many times before, it's anicdotal.
Old 12-20-2020, 03:54 PM
  #49228  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by acdii
I just soak them in denatured alcohol until they are turning freely. Usually, especially castor run, the oil gums up and has everything sticking. Have done that with 3 used engines I got, and now they all work perfectly. The worst was the Gemini 120II. That one was so gummed up all the valves were stuck open. I used a lot of DA with a plastic scrub brush to get the gunk out of it, now it runs smooth as silk. I only crack the engine if I feel anything but smooth bearings. I never run them until the engine spins smoothly and has decent compression with the GP. I spin them without the GP in that way I can feel for any notchiness at the compression side and past TDC where they would be hidden by the compression and release. Once it spins freely I then shoot it with an oil, either MM, or 3n1 to protect the steel until I am ready to run it up, then use trans fluid as a ARO.

I hate USPS. What the hell were they thinking to send a package from Champaign IL destined to just outside Rockford, down the St Louis MO? It shipped on the 11th, and had not been seen since. It is the tank and switch mounts for my Corsair, been waiting on them so I can finish the install! I have to wait until the 22nd before I can either cancel or reship it.
Its called the know nothing postal general cut hours, cut sorting machines and limited sort times. His only qualification was his campaign donation size.

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 12-20-2020 at 04:01 PM.
Old 12-20-2020, 04:26 PM
  #49229  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Its called the know nothing postal general cut hours, cut sorting machines and limited sort times. His only qualification was his campaign donation size.
BULL.
No, its called an intentional, malicious, deliberate work slow down , politically motivated.

When I send a package from Utica MI to Richmond MI, 10 miles away. It isnt a lack of overtime or an overnight loss of machinery ghat has them send it 300O miles across twenty state lines before handing the now stale cookies over 14 days later.

FedEx gets all my parcel shipping from now on.

Imagine what the Chinese Communist Party expects foor their MASSIVE contributions!
Then again, I give things to people who openly wish Covid on me and my family! Imagine that

So happens, one of my best friends is Postmaster at a local Post Office. Well aware of what they are up to. Thank you.



Last edited by Jesse Open; 12-20-2020 at 04:35 PM.
Old 12-20-2020, 04:32 PM
  #49230  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Since when does the opinion of one person implicate the other as an idiot? After all we're just here to share our experiences and opinions. As I said and as you've said so many times before, it's anicdotal.

LOL Even an idiot could see thru that!

Old 12-20-2020, 06:13 PM
  #49231  
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Default Fg14 fail!

Well, my newly acquired very low/no run time fg14 failed to pass the break in period. Piston pin to piston pin bore clearance opened up causing a rattling sound at low rpm and idle.

Initially I did hear a very faint sound while jiggling the prop back and forth past tdc before I ever started the engine but thought it was just the ring clicking up and down in the ring groove. Wrong! The rattling noise got a tiny bit worse after the first 16 oz tank but was still very faint while jiggling the prop back and forth past tdc and still no audible noise while running. During today's run things went south after about 20 minutes of run time; an audible rattle at idle reared it's ugly head. Easy to find the problem once the jug was removed.

Curious thing, the piston pin bore on one side of the piston is fine, the other side is oversized. I'm fairly confident this issue is a manufacturing flaw.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 12-20-2020 at 06:17 PM.
Old 12-20-2020, 08:16 PM
  #49232  
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I had one parcel sent USPS that sat at a mail distribution center for two weeks. The package was small less than a pound in weight and yet it didn't move.
Old 12-20-2020, 08:25 PM
  #49233  
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Yeah, it's kind of hit or miss with USPS. I had a box full of props from CA sit at a distribution center for over 4 weeks before finally making its way here. No reason for it that I could see. No floods, earthquakes, fires or damage to the package, it just sat there.
Old 12-20-2020, 11:50 PM
  #49234  
Monty Python
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Latest update on the Pink N Poke the rudder has been recovered, tail wheel bracket has been remade (It was missing from the kit when I got it and my first try was tracking right.), rudder, elevator, and both ailerons have been hinged, and the aileron servos installed. Cockpit coaming has been installed. Next up pushrods need to be installed. Engine remounted and the tank reinstalled. Then I can install the wheel struts, graphics, and balance. I hope to have it ready to fly for New Years or shortly there after.
looking better mike will look good in the air. I thought i saw a pic you posted a while back with triangular ally leg gear spats, if they had checkerboard covering it may balance the scheme out better.
Old 12-20-2020, 11:58 PM
  #49235  
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It's cheap to treat a second hand saito to a new set of bearings and have a careful look at other things while you are there, two hours tops taking your time.


Dave i found an acceptable way to listen to country and western music. I put this on 78rpm and you miss all the bits about getting your ex wife/ pickup truck or your dog back and judith durham sounds much zippier
Old 12-21-2020, 03:04 AM
  #49236  
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I suspect that music has a real beat to it.
Old 12-21-2020, 03:08 AM
  #49237  
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Finn, here is a shot of Page #2 from Clarence Lee's review of the early 150-S, as you can see the piston has no hump. The compression ratio is 11.24 to 1, the C&H Ignition makes a ***** cat out of the early 150's. Clarence Lee's review: http://sceptreflight.com/Model%20Eng...20FA-150S.html



My 150-S with C&H Ignition.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-21-2020 at 03:13 AM. Reason: Add pictures
Old 12-21-2020, 03:28 AM
  #49238  
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Dave, is 11.24:1 the highest compression 150? No hump on the piston like the HC 65 and HC 80?
Old 12-21-2020, 03:42 AM
  #49239  
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Yes sir the early was 11.24 to 1, the rest are 9.9 to 1, still plenty high. All are hump free. I have a new cylinder on mine, it did not lower the compression. I ham fisted the threaded intake boss. An expensive lesson.

The 180 has 9.56 to 1 compression as per Clarence Lee. Chris Chianelli doesn't bother with CRs, he mostly crows about OS-f plugs.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-21-2020 at 03:47 AM.
Old 12-21-2020, 03:49 AM
  #49240  
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Those threads are M2.6 x .45 iirc. Couldn't be repaired with a M2.5 x .45 thread repair kit?
Old 12-21-2020, 04:11 AM
  #49241  
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The threaded part of the intake port broke off almost forward to the intake valve seat, there was nothing left to repair. Bad move on my part.
Old 12-21-2020, 04:16 AM
  #49242  
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Wow. If we ever meet in person I'll keep that in mind and be prepared for the crushing handshake.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 12-21-2020 at 04:24 AM.
Old 12-21-2020, 04:29 AM
  #49243  
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Originally Posted by Monty Python
It's cheap to treat a second hand saito to a new set of bearings and have a careful look at other things while you are there, two hours tops taking your time.


Dave i found an acceptable way to listen to country and western music. I put this on 78rpm and you miss all the bits about getting your ex wife/ pickup truck or your dog back and judith durham sounds much zippier
LMAO. Thanks Pete, made my day. I'll be sending that to my brother, the lead guitarist for a prominent Outlaw Country band in the KCMO area.
Old 12-21-2020, 06:12 AM
  #49244  
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10 days later, still no update. The fact it sat 2 days on the dock before even being picked up is wrong. So the fuel tank and switch mounts are.....somewhere. I have to wait until tomorrow to cancel the order and get a refund. This is why I only do Prime, thought it being Horizon I wouldn't have an issue, guess I was wrong.


Friday, December 11
9:20 AM
Package has left the carrier facility
Saint Louis Mo Network Distribution Center, US
8:51 AM
Package arrived at a carrier facility
Saint Louis Mo Network Distribution Center, US
7:36 AM
Package arrived at a carrier facility
Champaign, IL US
Tuesday, December 8
Package has shipped
Old 12-21-2020, 06:56 AM
  #49245  
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Originally Posted by Monty Python
looking better mike will look good in the air. I thought i saw a pic you posted a while back with triangular ally leg gear spats, if they had checkerboard covering it may balance the scheme out better.
The landing gear strut covers I had taped in place last time are pink I didn't have enough checkerboard after I had to recover the rudder. They get glued to the wire with silicon so I will do that last. The wing struts are red as are some of the graphics so that should break up all that pink. I got the radio, control horns, and pushrods installed yesterday and they work nice and smooth. I just need to go back and adjust throws and add some glue to the hinges. I generally shoot for throws around the low rate shown in the instructions to start out. All control surfaces are a good size so it should still be responsive. I have had to live with a few mistakes I inherited with this airframe but she should be flyable.

My flying buddy is trying to talk me into giving him $25 for a secondhand Goldberg SkyTiger with a K&B .61 on her. The only thing I would need to do is recover the rudder, everything else is good shape. I'm not sure I have a place to store it though. I told him it would need to wait until I start a new job. Unemployment sucks! I blew the last of my hobby cash on a deal too good to pass up. I fly a Futaba 7C on 2.4 GHz I was found a second transmitter with 2 used receivers in new condition for the cost of about 1 new receiver, The transmitter stock battery had been dumped for a LiFe battery. My backup receiver is a Futaba 6EXA on 72 MHz it will be nice to have a matching backup. I get back to work I'll start saving up again. I want one last kit the SIG's Maxey Hester Ryan STA Special. Aftre that future purchases will be limited to the parts to build what I already have and Saitos of course! Why does the old saying "Best laid plans of mice and men." keep popping into my head?

Mike
Old 12-21-2020, 09:46 AM
  #49246  
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I only have one kit untouched, a Ziroli P-61. I have two started, an LT-25 and 4Star20. The little kits are not for me though, and will sit until they who wished to build them decide they want to build them. Everything else I have are plans base Warbirds. Giant Corsair and P-51, a Hellcat, B-29, B-17, and P-47. Also have a Pica P-40 plans set and a friend with a complete kit to copy from. Only thing missing is a lumber yard of balsa and plywood.
Old 12-21-2020, 10:22 AM
  #49247  
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I will say the majority of my kits are short kits I had cut from plans. The time spent to cut my own parts seemed a waste when a laser can cut them so much more quickly and accurately.
Old 12-21-2020, 10:35 AM
  #49248  
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So subtle
Old 12-21-2020, 01:09 PM
  #49249  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Hi Aerofinn, welcome to the thread.

The only difference in parts between low/high compression saitos is the piston. If your piston has a raised dome on top that looks like half a loaf of bread then it's a high compression piston.

The early high compression 150 had no markings on the lug or an "A" I think, however a saito replacement crankcase also has no markings.

Compression loss is most commonly caused by a stuck ring, stuck valves or stuck tappets. In your case the dent in the pushrod tube could be causing the pushrod to hang up.

Good luck with your overhaul and stay in touch. We love pictures!

Lonnie
hi Lonnie,

Thanks! So nice to be back - I have been busy with other things for the past 2-3 years. So basically I try to just oil the engine well and give it a run before disassembling it. Maybe remove the back plate and have a look inside.

Good to know the difference between high compression and low compression engines

I will upload some pictures or videos later

Old 12-21-2020, 01:26 PM
  #49250  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Finn, here is a shot of Page #2 from Clarence Lee's review of the early 150-S, as you can see the piston has no hump. The compression ratio is 11.24 to 1, the C&H Ignition makes a ***** cat out of the early 150's. Clarence Lee's review: Saito FA-150S



My 150-S with C&H Ignition.
Hi hobbsy,

Thank you so much - I will have my time to read this article carefully. While this is great info, I feel a bit confused now on how to determine the high / low compression by looking at the piston? From what I can see on the article and the picture attached the high complression piston looks pretty much the same as the new version piston? see picture




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