706jim

I think I gave my broken cam to Gary Cee. I've asked him to post pictures of it if he actually has these parts. I think it's just a nut holding the whole shebang together.

Glowgeek

Could be a nut, I'm a nut.

modeltronics

My Feedback: (27)

I went out in the cold to do a quick run on my Saito 40 to get a little prop info to help me pick a prop.
Fuel, homebrew 3% nitro 18% oil
XY prop (APC copy) 12X5 9200 rpm
Taipan 11X5 9700 rpm

I wish I could get some thrust numbers. My conclusion is that I will have to fly several props to see what is best for the plane.

acdii

Other than a wet sand and polish, cowl is finished, lock tight the engine to the firewall, run the fuel lines and install the tank, glow plugs, then the OBG, and I can button up the cowl. Then finish the radio set up, install batteries, etc. Waiting on some screws for the wing hatches, and that will be done too. Almost done with it, I might look into wheel doors, or hold off until the maiden.

Jesse Open

Sorry fellows, I no longer have the broken camshaft. I probably sent it to Dave along with a slew of other twin cylinder parts that I gave him some while ago. In the interim, that was not the first or last one I had seen or heard of. Seems the breakage is not at all uncommon. Saito had to know just by way of the large demand for replacement parts.

Glowgeek

From that angle the engine looks VERY realistic Todd!

Glowgeek

Here's some approximate calculations:

APC 12x5 @ 9200, .591 hp, 4.98 lbs thrust, 37.7 mph pitch speed

Taipan 11x5 @ 9700 doesn't compute correctly. Are you sure it's not an 11x6?
Assuming it is an 11x6 @ 9700, .577 hp, 3.91 lbs thrust, 47.8 mph pitch speed.

Hyjinx

Curious are the pounds of thrust indicated measured by scale or by calculation from a chart ?

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

I just got a 150 high comp and I'd like to get more info about exhaust "systems" that work well with these engines. The one I got has the two stroke looking muffler with a lot of small holes for the exhaust, it attatches to the cylinder with a 45 degree curved pipe, pretty cool looking but might require a big cutout in the cowl and that decidedly non scale look. I have found straight pipes to work well and sound great on smaller Saito engines, they don't seem any louder either. So maybe I could just use a flex pipe in place of the stock muffler? I see that Saito sells 90 degree angle manifolds to transition to their flex pipe but isn't that too aggressive? Note that I bought a Seagull Yak-11 Reno Air Racer for this engine and the exit from the round cowl would be a nice small hole if I could use a pipe type exhaust. Obviously if I fly this like its full scale counterpart it will be wide open swinging a high pitch prop a lot of the time so if the type of pipe has any effect on performance or heat build up that would be a consideration too.
I originally bought this for a WWI bipe but decided a potentially high strung powerhouse would be happier in something fast and clean.

Jesse Open

Here are but a few of the dozens of pipes and mufflers I have made over the years. 16mm diameter sweep was a real good performer and very easy to make. Sound, awesome.


















The dB Buster, quiet muffler as seen in parts above.

No major power loss yet very quiet on the FA-125

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

In the last photo is that a Buick Wildcat behind the lovely lady? I'm guess based on the fin size and the chrome line.

I love the great machine work on all your mufflers! If you ever get bored I have an obsolete off brand 1.20 that came new in a blue box in need of a muffler. No factory parts seem to exist for it anymore and I can fly it at the local field without a muffler installed. I think my Saito's feel sorry for it having inferior parentage and a missing muffler. I would be happy to pay you for it and I could send the pipe to you to match.

Jesse Open

Mufflers were a favorite project source for many years. Totally quit all metal projects, cold turkey when I retired lat June the 1st. Unplugged the machinery, gave it to my Wood Model Maker son. Not missing it at all. Nobody appreciates work or parts that you give away. They accept the products of hours labor like chump change.
Glad to be rid of it.LOL

Ooops, pic slipped in via fat-finger That is the Norwegian Princess next to a 1960 Buick Invicta convertible.Taken in 2006.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I knew it had to be a Buick! I would have said 59 or 60 if pressed.

Glowgeek

Calculated with a static thrust calculator. Clink link, it's easy to use and keeps me from finding out later that I mounted the wrong engine size to my aircraft. No need to take a half dozen props to the field on maiden day either.

Static Thrust Calculator - STRC

Hyjinx

Thanks Lonnie. Thrust. I think it's a valuable tool for setting up motors to planes also. Nice to know what to expect.
Big fan of scale testing also. I set up my test stand for it. I am primarily tactile. Gotta touch taste and feel to believe then compare to " the scientific method" ( at least the old way science used to work before computer modeling) to verify.
Except concerning the claims of Jesus Christ. Lol That is the only true thing I accept by faith.

Glowgeek

Amen Brother!

I tested a few setups with my calibrated digital scale when I first found the godollo static thrust calc. The calc wasn't spot on but close enough for selecting engines and props. The calc doesn't take into account cowl diameter, rolling resistance etc so I would expect the digital scale measurements to be slightly lower than calculated.

Hyjinx

🙏 Is 💪

modeltronics

My Feedback: (27)

Hyjinx
Your statement above reminds me of a big sign we had in an engineering department for the big corporation I retired from:

"IN GOD WE TRUST....all others bring data."

It had to be taken down because it didn't match with company policies.

Lonnie
I checked the Taipan prop and it is marked 11X5. I will run the engine again with that prop to check the RPM numbers when I get a chance.

Pedro

Jesse Open

👍👍

Balou88

Hi Bill,
When you replace the bearings do you remove one of the seals on each bearing?

Glowgeek

I'm not Bill but I remove both seals/shields from the rear bearing and the inside seal/shield from the front bearing.

Lonnie

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

“Here are but a few of the dozens of pipes and mufflers I have made over the years. 16mm diameter sweep was a real good performer and very easy to make. Sound, awesome.”

Which one is the “16mm diameter sweep”? I have a friend with a nice shop that might let me make one.

Jesse Open

Glowgeek

Oh, so now it's a Yak, sweeeet.
You don't have to cut a big opening in the side of your cowl to run the muffler through. Mounting the engine at a 45° down angle allows adjusting your current muffler to exit the bottom of the cowl. Mounting the engine inverted and using a 90° male to female adaptor allows the muffler to exit through the bottom as well. Spitting the cowl is another option that allows for a tidy looking side exit. RC Specialties sells a turbo muffler that looks better and weighs less than the Saito offering. They also sell the 14mm 90° adaptors.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Here is an inverted .80 with a 90 degree adapter coming out the bottom of a SIG 1/5th Cub. The only engine parts showing are the rocker arm covers and the needle valve. That object you see peeking out at the top of the picture is a Dubro fueler.