Captcrunch44

Dave
that BK. Looks and runs great can’t what to get it in a plane.

also does anyone know else forget the order stuff?
just had a 50 GK delivered and a new receiver for my 2.4 Dmss JR radio.

1200SportsterRider

This one with the older style carb is ready for a wring out also, both are high compression, both have near zero leak compression. I'll do comparo today.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Nice looking engine!

Captcrunch44

Dave
did you fix the carb on that one.
I tried to fix it and was unsuccessful.
the high speed needle was broken when I got it.

1200SportsterRider

Yes I did and I forget how, I'll have take a look.

I finished radiology yesterday and received a cancer survivor Tee shirt, lots of checkups from on though.

I took a break from the 65's and am setting up old but in perfect condition RCM 40 ARF. It will get a Saito 50 with no initial on the right lug.

Saito 50,painted black by me.
Fuel Wildcat 10% with 18% full syn.
Prop======Xoar 12 x 6
Plug======Glo-Devil 4c SOT 302
Exhaust===Stock cast muffler
Max rpm==9,650
Idle rpm==2,000, rock steady

acdii

I have been giving some consideration to the SIG Seagull Ultimate Bipe ARF to replace the one I crashed. I flew it with the Gemini II 120. What you guys think?

Captcrunch44

how would you like a CG. Ultimate that needs a little care?

Glowgeek

Nice plane and a well built ARF. To bring out its full capabilities I would lob in an FA150 or FG30. GP ARFs are similar quality. Never had a problem with either company. I huck the living crap out of my 25% GP Yak and it just looks at me like, "Is that all you got, sissy boy?"

jcbwls

I have a 120A and cant get it to idle at all just stops and have adjusted the low speed till Iam blue in the face runs ok if I leave the glow stick on but take it iff runs for a few min and stops .I have tried the saito glowand os type F, any help out there

Glowgeek

A few things to check:

Valve clearance adjustments done recently? Should be between .002" and .004" at TDC of compression stroke.

Valve leaks? Rotate the engine through the compression stroke and listen for valve leaks (hissing) at the carb inlet and muffler exit.

Muffler pressure line connected and in good shape?

Tank lines in good condition?

Intake manifold pipe orings in good condition at the cylinder head and at the carb?

Does the engine slowly drop in rpm at idle and then die, or does the rpm increase and then die?

Post a "side view" pic of the engine so we can see which carb you have(Two needle or Airbleed)

Anyway, that's a start.

Lonnie

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I know a guy that had a 160 4st. it never ran correctly. it would stall at any time when coming off the throttle. the problem was 2 things.

A, it was a 160 and he had a super light 13x6 wood prop on it.. I sold him a 15x8 APC.
the instant he put that 15x8 on it it ran much much better. because the engine had more flywheel effect with the longer prop. but it would still stall at idle. but the thing is that engine being a 160 could have used a 16 inch prop on it.

B, the plug. he had a super cheap plug in it, once he put an OS F plug in it the engine ran fine and didn't stall.

Jim

RoKit

A brief update on my FA-170R3..

Made a new gasket for the manifold cover,
Rotated the intake manifold 120 degrees so that #3 became #1,,
No significant difference in running performance,,
if any it was even worse tuning..

So now that question is sorted out.

Not giving up :-)

Glowgeek

Rob, are you going to try rotating it the other way next?

Captcrunch44

Ok
I’m taking a survey

who thinks we should change the forum name to
Saito addicts anonymous.

or at least I’m not afraid to say I’m an addict just got two more Saito’s a 50 and a 56 in the mail that I forgot I ordered.
hmmmm

Glowgeek

Can a fella have too many Saitos? We should at least change the thread name to Saito addicts addict anonymous.

RoKit

I might do if I find the time to play a bit more :-) However I don´t se the point in spending time and fuel,
cause I suppose that Saito have tried various combinations and designs,,and what I have is the best they could do at the time.

I know by now that Saito are very well informed about the customer perspective regarding R3 series.
They may or may not care about it. But one thing is very present,, they are and should be ashamed.

My future plan is to make a modification so that all 3 cylinders have the same access to the fuel,
first I have to figure out how to "stir" the methanol/ oil as much as possible before it reaches the combustion chamber
without "pooling" along the way. (I might go for a negative pressured crank case so that any "pooling" will end in there)

RoKit

Well I know one "fella" who have one radial to much ...

Glowgeek

Without access to the crankcase the only pooling, I mean fuel and oil pooling, is isolated to the intake tract. If you can figure a way to keep fuel/oil from pooling in the intake tract you'll have a great running engine. I'm not sure how keeping the crankcase pressure low would help in any way. Good luck

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I think "the Saito Freaks Club" would be more fitting.

Jim

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I'm not an addict I can stop anytime I want! Of course its usually when I'm broke.

RoKit

The holes are letting fuel/ oil in to the krank case, and also creating negative pressure when the krank case nipple is blocked.

1200SportsterRider

MIke, I could trade you a silver 80 for the 56, I have two 50's and no 56.

Glowgeek

Oh, I see. Hmmm

1200SportsterRider

That does not seem possible unless you made some extra holes.

Glowgeek

Dave, remember he has the 170 R3, the one with a tiny vent nipple hole. Could be that some of the fuel standoff present in the intake tract during valve overlap periods is entering the crankcase by design.

Rob, does any oil come out of the crankcase nipple while running the engine?