Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If you did not turn the LS needle CW and lean it some it is still too rich. Peak the engine at your max and lean the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time until you get a good idle and transition, check the transition and top rpm after every other change. It will burn half as much fuel and not deadstick when the LS needle is correct. Be willing to sacrifice a few rpm (if Necessary) on the idle in favor of a better transition.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

The 13x10 may be too small a prop? By the time you properly leaned out both the high and low ends, you'll probably see your peak above 10k

XJet

Yeah, my TT91FS turns a *very* slightly cut down 13x10 at just over 10,000 on the ground so I'd expect a 125 to be red-lining it.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Tom, I'll have to see what other Saitos have the red Labels, also does someone have some Saito .91 numbers to compare to my .90TS and .90 triple. The numbers are using PM 15% and the same Bolly 13.5x6 on both engines. The .90 triples numbers are 9,300.

RVM

At about 90F, with 20%/15% (3% castor, 12% synth) fuel, at a pretty low elevation (Starkville, MS), my Saito .91 with 1.5 gallons through it was peaking an APC 14x7 at 9550. I flew it at 9300. Idle was around 2000-2100 and transition to full was nearly perfect. A slight gurgle, but I think the engine still needed more time for break-in.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thankyou much.

dougwill

Hello All!
I have a question about an Saito 80 that I'm thinking might be ready for at least a set of bearings. I can feel some movement when I flex the prop, feels like the back is moving .005 I guess. Engine doesn't have any noise yet and runs ok. Question being that I would like to know what the compression range should be for an 80 and how many revoloutions should I turn the prop when checking compression?

Doug

RVM

No problem. Let me know if you need anymore info. I've got some other numbers written down from earlier in the break-in period.

T28RON

My Feedback: (32)

Help: I have a Saito Fa 120 with a valve cover missing. "gold". I would like to locate one from a parts only Saito. What engine size valve cover will this engine take other than the saito 120. I could find a saito for parts only and use them instead of the saito 120. Is this possible? Valve cover does not have to be gold. Tks.

Ron

dougwill

T28RON
Ron Here is the number for the gold covers. Rocker ArmCvr,gold:Mnu-W,Z,BB,FF,HH $17.58 [SAI120S49].(Pair) The 120, 150, 180 are similar in most dimensions, but the rocker covers seem different. Give Horizon Hobby a call to be sure. 1-800-338-4639.

Doug

T28RON

My Feedback: (32)

Tks Doug: Will do. I will call today.

Ron

fuelburner

Hi,

Who makes a good quality flex pipe for exhaust, other than the stuff you get from saito or Macs tuned pipes? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!!!!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Home Depot and Lowes sell flexible gas pipe that can be brazed onto your manifold

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Anyone heard from William Robinson ? I think we might have burned him out on this forum [sm=sad_smile.gif]

JettPilot

RVM

Nope. Not really replying to his PMs either.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I talked to him on the phone last week. I didn't ask him any questions but he seemed to be in good health. We talked about airliners, sports cars, etc

gjeffers

i think he is watching over us

according to the top of the page anyways!!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]Gentlemen:

I am shutting down my “Day Job.” It is still very profitable, but a lot of disposable income in hand doesn’t mean anything when you have no free time in which to dispose of it.

This doesn’t mean I’ll have a lot more time here though, I still have four twin build projects, three twin ARFs, and two customer engines I need to finish. As well as the FA-125 Huck was nice enough to send me waiting for repair.

So to this business. Catching up from page 184 of the thread. Crankpin’s post number 4585.

Cranky:

Some have said they were able to start their twins by lighting only one glow plug, but more often the second plug gets oil fouled and they have to shut down and clear the flood in the second cylinder before getting both cylinders running. In any event you may find yourself running out of new curse words until the engine is run in, whether from dropping a cylinder or a dead stick. Stay with it, when it’s ready to it will become a very nice easy starting engine.

Mike:

The richer the mixture the cooler, and the more heat needed for the start of combustion. Since a lot of the heat comes from compression and at low throttle settings there’s not a lot of mixture to compress, normal running gives a semi-automatic delay in ignition smoothing out the low speed.

When we keep going lean though, we get to the point where the mixture will light with almost no compression – the glow heat is enough to start the burn. Now, with the engine at low rpm there’s not enough inertia to carry the piston through, it gets blown backwards, the burned charge goes out the intake, you have a true backfire.

When this happens ALWAYS check the prop nut, this is what throws the prop on a four stroke engine. It is also possible that the engine will start running backwards if the tank is full or near – the normal fuel line gets pressurized and fuel is forced through the pressure line, the muffler becomes the intake and the carb becomes the muffler. This is dangerous, if it happens kill the engine as quickly as possible. Enough heat will be put out to fry all the o-rings in the carb, you’ll have to do a job on it before it will work right again.

Bob93447:

As JP said, 70-80 hours is a lot of time on your FA-72 engine. Since you’ve used the castor blend in the PM fuel I doubt there’s any amount of cam wear, but as a guess your crank bearings are getting sloppy and causing the RPM loss. This can happen even before you hear anything, and possibly just showing a small amount of free play at the prop tips.

Castor oil again:

Saito is on-again off-again about it. Every instance of bad cam wear and pitting has been in an engine run without castor oil. You do as you please.

EMVIN:

Assuming this problem not been solved, it’s the classic symptom of a used up glow plug. Try another. And as Mike said, it never hurts to check the valve lash.

Rwithey:

Having the older series FA-120 there are still options for the parts you need.

The cheapest way out for a push rod and tube is to straighten the ones you have, they are both longer than the current versions.

If you can’t straighten them, get the push rod and tube for the FA-180. Carefully pull one ball end from the push rod, shorten the aluminum section and reattach the ball end. The tube can be cut to length.

An alternate but more expensive way is to buy a new cam and cam box, along with the tappets, push rods, and push rod tubes for the later FA-120. If yours is one of the last “Plain” 120 engines with the AAC cylinder this will convert yours to the FA-120S specification. If yours is instead the ABC engine you’ll have the best of both worlds, the “S” valve timing and the high compression cylinder. If you go this route it would best to replace the valves also, allowing you to use the split collet spring retainers instead of the “C” clip ones. The later spring collets and spring caps come with the new valve springs. Replace the valves or not, you really should install new valve springs.

Dougwill:

You wont hurt your YS engines using a castor blend lube. What WILL kill the YS is using a petroleum based oil. It eats the regulator diaphragm.

Jpal:

The TNC (Fromeco) tach is very sensitive, and will rect to reflected light as well as the light shining through the prop. Try a different position, you’ll find a spot where the reading is steady.

This takes me through page 187 – more to follow.

Bill.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Yeah, things are not the same without old Bill around. Haven't heard his HAW in a long time

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

You can only repeat the same answers so many times before you burn out. After several thousand I think Bill is ready for a long break.

RVM

I can definitely relate to this statement. I had a great job, but I was putting in 60 hours a week. No thanks. Life is meant to be enjoyed, not slaved away. I'd much rather play with my airplanes and engines! Speaking of which, I should have a new Saito to break in before the end of the week.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Good to see you back here, Bill [sm=thumbup.gif]

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

All:

New members through page 187:

388 crankpin
389 APIA
390 Bob93447
391 Francois7
392 JeremyP-51
393 daniel9314
394 alfredbmor
395 rwithey
396 AKFireMedic

Thank you for coming in with us.

I'm sure there wil be more in the next ten pages as I get up to date, so if you joined the thread on page 188 or later please be patient.

Bill.

PS: Mike, I've missed you too. wr.

stallwart

And to make it all seem worthwhile.............I've recently run in, and flown my first Saito powered plane. Run in was was no problem for this FNG thanks to info gleaned here. First flights amazed me.

Despite some hiccups (crash that did result in some minor repair to the engine), the engine has been finally "dialed in" to offer silky smooth idle at around 3000, surprisingly smooth idle at 2200 or so, unbelievable power at WOT and fairly fast transition with nairy a gurgle.

How does a newbie get this far?............answer--->...........By listening to those with experience. Information from folks at the field, tempered with what I have learned here, have me basing my next plane choice on an engine (Saito), rather than the other way 'round.

scratchonly

Anyone need a 80 carb upgrade kit ? I received a second one by mistake and they don't want it back.
Please do not reply if you just want a spare.