Welcome to Club SAITO !
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acdii (02-11-2022)
Aluminum, dead soft annealed works great and is easily formed. Another method you may like For small deflectors is formed, laminated wood veneer layers. You can use pattern maker adhesive wax sheets applied as a spacer / form applied directly to the engine in the desired areas. Wrap and glue up the veneer in sections. When the glue dries you have nicely rounded, lightweight formed baffle sections .
Being a wood kind of guy, a natural for you.
I have yet been able to run up the engine after getting it all installed. I had it on the stand last year and tried to fire it up, but found out I didn't have the fuel system plumbed properly and had to take it all apart. Haven't tried since making the changes. When I had the engine on the PSP with the on board glow drivers, it ran awesome, so I should expect the same, provided I got the fuel system right this time. I did get the engine to run for 30 seconds with the custom pipes and it sounded pretty good.
My Feedback: (6)
On my current project I decided to make the firewall removeable because I was certain when its finished I will need to get to something to fix it.
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got me some foam at Mike's, it called Creatology foam sheet. it's 6mm. they were out of grey and black so I bought brown. they didn't have Eva or Darce.
Jim
https://www.google.com/search?q=buy+...EK&sclient=img
Jim
https://www.google.com/search?q=buy+...EK&sclient=img
Aaron, you bet.
Aluminum, dead soft annealed works great and is easily formed. Another method you may like For small deflectors is formed, laminated wood veneer layers. You can use pattern maker adhesive wax sheets applied as a spacer / form applied directly to the engine in the desired areas. Wrap and glue up the veneer in sections. When the glue dries you have nicely rounded, lightweight formed baffle sections .
Being a wood kind of guy, a natural for you.
Aluminum, dead soft annealed works great and is easily formed. Another method you may like For small deflectors is formed, laminated wood veneer layers. You can use pattern maker adhesive wax sheets applied as a spacer / form applied directly to the engine in the desired areas. Wrap and glue up the veneer in sections. When the glue dries you have nicely rounded, lightweight formed baffle sections .
Being a wood kind of guy, a natural for you.
Love the downfacing fuel inlet Todd. Obviously you have also experienced a "unexpected detachent" LMBO . Smart and sharp as the baffling ! That whistler looks fantastic all finished up. Can't wait to see the second flight filmed. Lol
Aluminum details on the Stearman.
First use of headed rivets vrs panhead screws.
Last edited by Hyjinx; 02-13-2022 at 09:01 AM.
Ah yes my friend. Wood is wonderful as metal is miraculous. Gifts of a kind Father, with a mind to create.
Love the downfacing fuel inlet Todd. Obviously you have also experienced a "unexpected detachent" LMBO . Smart and sharp as the baffling ! That whistler looks fantastic all finished up. Can't wait to see the second flight filmed. Lol
Aluminum details on the Stearman.
First use of headed rivets vrs panhead screws.
Love the downfacing fuel inlet Todd. Obviously you have also experienced a "unexpected detachent" LMBO . Smart and sharp as the baffling ! That whistler looks fantastic all finished up. Can't wait to see the second flight filmed. Lol
Aluminum details on the Stearman.
First use of headed rivets vrs panhead screws.
Now you're talking! Looks great.
Jim, good to see your alive and kicking, nothing wrong with the old fa120 that a new fa115 won't fix.
Dave, nice inlet trumpets you are making now, would look nice on a GK.
Senior Member
Thanks Pete, I don't currently have picture of a GK wearing one.
PS, I do have a picture of my old hc 80 wearing an aluminum one, note Taipan 4c special plug.
I forgot about this one, a 50.
PS, I do have a picture of my old hc 80 wearing an aluminum one, note Taipan 4c special plug.
I forgot about this one, a 50.
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 02-15-2022 at 03:21 AM. Reason: Add picture
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hey guys, that Titebond Instant (thick) is $30 for 4oz.what other thick, quick setting glue can I use for this creative foam
Jim
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 02-18-2022 at 07:22 PM.
Senior Member
I use this, I have built complete airplanes with it, I used Epoxy only on the firewall and main gear mounts on planes larger than 40 size. 25 to 30 sized planes get built completely using it.
13 bucks at Amazon and free shipping. It goes a long way too. If you try to break something glued with this, it will break anywhere except at the joint.
13 bucks at Amazon and free shipping. It goes a long way too. If you try to break something glued with this, it will break anywhere except at the joint.
Nice thing about EVA foam is that no special adhesives are required. Use what you want. I use medium CA and kicker because it's fast, usually takes less than 20 min to make an inlet baffle for a Saito single.
There are several low cost adhesives at craft stores where EVA foam is sold that work well . Many as well at hobby shops and corner hardware stores.
Super Ali-Phatic is a good general purpose glue. Holds well .
Not usually in a big hurry when building anyhow
Super Ali-Phatic is a good general purpose glue. Holds well .
Not usually in a big hurry when building anyhow
I'm not in a hurry during most of a build. I do get antsy to fly an almost complete model however, one where the last step is to create an inlet baffle and exit opening. A real urgent need to get the cowl on and fly sets in. I think we all experience that.