olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

RVM,
Any lawn mower or power equipment shop shop should have the gasket that you are looking for. Far as the schrader valve goes, it is the same valve used in auto, bike and other types of tires. Sometimes you can find a valve stem cap that has the tightening tool built in. If push comes to shove, a set of needle nose pliers with small ends will do. Any bike shop should be able to fix you up with this cap. If not any auto supply store should have the tool.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Caution on Schraeder valves please. There are three different types, one of which has the external spring, it obviously can't be used because of its length.

The other two appear the same, but they differ in the strength of the spring that holds the valve shut.

An ordinary tire valve "Core" has the strong spring, if used in an iron Bay regulator the engine will probably run lean as it will require a lot higher "Suction" to deliver the fuel.

The version with the weaker spring (that you want) is commonly used only in engine compression gauges, where the use of the "Standard" type leads to erratic and low readings when testing an engine.

If you see a Mac or Snap-On truck rolling around you can get the correct one from them, or possibly your local auto supply will have a replacement.

They are NOT standard tire valve cores.

Bill.

RVM

Cool thanks Bill. Archie told me if I have to tighten the Schraeder valve to use very light pressure when torquing it. He said just enough to feel friction while it turns is more than enough.

rclement

My Feedback: (1)

I was wondering if it's okay to use an exhaust deflector (Dubro type) on Saito 4 strokes? A guy at the hobby shop said that he thought he heard some where that it shouldn't be done.

RVM

Supposedly, it restricts the exhaust enough to cause noticeable power loss. That is all I know though.

RVM

How abrasive is baking soda? I think I got a very small amount into my carb and ran it through the engine. [&:]

resedaguy818

Muffler problems with saito 82!

I have two problems with my 82 and wondering if their is any fix.. Both are with the muffler!

1. Muffler inside baffle comes loose almost every flight! every time I tighten, it just vibrates loose. I loose fuel pressure and dead stick!

2. whole muffler comes lose! Their is a small exaust pipe, then the muffler. Muffler always vibrates loose at the end of exaust pipe(not at the engine side but at the muffler side)I am tightening it really tight, but every 2 or 3 flights its loose again!!

Anybody have any experience with these problems and found a fix that works?

alfredbmor

Bill: Thanks for your answer; I thought that using synthetic oil could help my engine because the manual states that you should not use a blend with Castor Oil Only. The guy at the local hobby shop recommended this type of fuel. What mix do you recommend?
What percentage should I use of castor oil?
Thanks.

RVM

Mine came loose on the first break-in tank, but I expected that. It hasn't come loose since. I use a wrench and torque the nuts as tight as I can.

RVM

I use 2%-4% castor oil. I would use straight synthetic, but I'm not 100% convinced it protects an engine as well as castor. So, to be safe, I use 3% castor in my fuel. Right now the fuel I'm using is 20% nitro, 12% synthetic and 3% castor. I'm thinking about trying some Omega 25%/17% synth/castor blend, but gotta find it locally first. I really don't want to pay $20 S&H surcharge. I do want to get a gallon of the 40% nitro Omega has - it should be interesting.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Here's what I have done with great results. Apply some Permatex Copper High Temp Gasket on the threaded portion of the muffler extension (muffler end). Install into the muffler, position it the way you want it, and tighten the nut. I normally clamp the muffler between rubber jaws of a vise to do this. Some larger mufflers have flats for a wrench, so that's easier. Then do the same for the cylinder end, and tighten well. I let the gasket cure for a few hours, then run the engine WOT to heat up the exhaust, then tighten the nuts again.

RVM

Can you "cook" a GK Saito in antifreeze without taking off the paint?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I believe I saw a post quite a while back that said it will turn it into a Zebra.

imfly123

saito 100 in my fliton Inspire 60 Acro, what a killer combo.

alfredbmor

Thanks RVM, thats sounds like a lot of nitro, please post your readings before and after using 40% nitro.

Thanks again.

RVM

Now I defiintely gotta do it!

RVM

I definitely intend to post my findings, though I think I can predict the results. I imagine that as you increase the nitro content above 30% you will be subject to diminishing returns. My hypothesis is that there will be a significant improvement from 20% nitro to 30% nitro, but not so much from 30% to 40%. Fuel consumption will also probably go through the roof. I'm sure someone more familiar with the numbers could almost precisely predict what will happen, and I also am sure someone else has tested this before.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Anti-freeze / crockpot will remove the black coating...

I have a "half-n-half" .80 used ta be GK...
I cooked the cylinder, but not the case, so it's black on the bottom and silver on top w/ gold rocker covers.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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I don't think I would risk cooking a GK, unless I didn't like the finish.

I even wonder if the antifreeze will affect anodized parts. I wouldn't think so, but I'd like to try something of no consequence first.


Ed Cregger

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Ed...I have found out the hard way over the last 3-4 years that I've been cooking engines in the crockpot 'o antifreeze what comes off and what doesn't...

Most anodized parts come back out just fine, but I have had a few that the color got a little bit lighter.
When I first started doing it I used too much heat...and I think that might have had something to do with bleaching out the color...(I have a pink head from an old McCoy now...)

The black from my .80GK was chipped and flaking off from the cyl. when I got it used from an old friend. I decided to just throw the jug in w/ some other engines/parts while I worked on removing the crank / bearings from the lower case...
When I pulled the jug out of the bath, most of the black was gone, and the rest came off w/ a tooth brush.

RVM

I don't even have half a gallon through it yet. I won't be cooking it for a long, long time. I was just curious.

Flyer95

My Feedback: (1)

I think the extra weight of the exhaust deflector will strain the threads on the muffler and the case. Also the exhaust from a fourstroke is much hotter than a twostroke and can burn up that silicone pretty soon?

Garthwood

resed.........................I have used the plumber's teflon tape around the threads, just one layer only try not to overlap. I do it to both ends, being careful not to get close to the engines outlet. This area gets pretty hot. It will seal in. I also use two wrenches when tightening the nuts. I've lost my first Saito muffler when I switched to 4 strokes. After that I started to use the teflon. Its been working pretty good since. With the heat the teflon softens and seals. It is also easy to remove, better than loctite (blue of course). I was replacing our kitchen faucet one day, where I had to use teflon............Bingo....I figured I can use this on my Saitos mufflers.

Charles.

____________________________________
Modelers are Innovators.

dougwill

Bill Robison
What are you're thoughts on gas porting the piston on a Saito like is done on new YS engines. Which involves holes or slots cut in the top of the piston that come down behind the ring to help prevent blow-by when the ring gets a little worn by keeping out-pressure on ring.

Thanks to all for comments about castol vs. synth. oil in fuel. I would like to come up with a compromise for my Saitos and YSs. I do like them both.

Doug

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Doug:

"Gas Porting" is a method that allows the use of a piston ring with low wall pressure. and still have good sealing under the higher pressure of combustion. Sort of a "Poor Man's Dyke's Ring."

To take full advantage of gas porting you need to start with a lower tension on the ring, else when the cylinder fires the ring pressure against the cylinder wall will be far higher than needed.

Gas porting doesn't help when the ring wears either. As the ring wears it gets greater side clearance in the ring groove, this allows the combustion gases to reach behind the ring and increase the pressure just as the gas ports do.

So, to summarize, unless the piston ring is specially made for a ported piston at best it doesn't help, at worst the added pressure, increasing friction, actually lowers the useful power from the engine.

Castor oil will not harm any of our engines. In some places you can find "Pro" YS users recommending a castor blend. The thing you need to be careful of, running a YS, is to be sure your synthetic oil is truly synthetic, and not made from a petroleum base. The petroleum base will destroy the regulator diaphragm.

Bill.