Glowgeek

Heading your way soon, Dave.


Century 21 Coverite (Cub Yellow)

1200SportsterRider

Thanks much.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Hey all, I have a Saito 325R5 and feel I am not getting the RPMs I should. I have changed out the fuel line, adjusted the valves, changed out the plugs. Only other thing I can think of is, check for leaks, try a different nitro%, try a different brand prop. Seems to be running strong and easy start. Might just be all I am going to get out of it.

Can anyone post their numbers? Thanks

I am running
900 FT MSL
29.80 pressure
93% Humidity
619 DA
48F Temp/46F Dew
20% nitro
OSF Plugs

20X8 XOAR PJWWII
3.25 turns on needle - 6400 rpm
about 1100 rpm low

20X10 XOAR PJWWII
3.25 turns on needle - 5900 rpm
about 900 rpm low

I found a post where a guy is running a 20x10 turning 6800rpm, unknown brand, at sea level, with 10% nitro

I have an old article showing
Zinger
74F
46% Humidity
29.98 pressure

20x8 7500 rpm
20x10 6650 rpm

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Rowdog. I do not know as much about Saito problems as the other guys do, but here is something to keep in mind. all I can tell you is that Xoar props pull very strong (they pull a lot of air).

I had an APC 17x8w turn 8800+ on my son's Magnum 180 4st. and the Xoar 17x8 Sport turned 8200+. a 600 RPM difference. while the Xoar 17x6 Sport turned 8600+. so I would think even if you do have a problem with your engine it just may not be that big of a problem.

what did you set your lashes at?

BTW, the Magnum is long gone and will never coming back!

Jim

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks, for the details!

1200SportsterRider

Thanks a ton, I'll use it wisely, I've been in Calabash, NC for a few days, the alligators were out warming up. It sure was windy. The fuse on the RH 80 is the next project.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I mentioned a few posts ago was hoping to keep the weight down on the Python and finally had a chance to put it on the scales. With a prop, one LIFE pack and no spinner AUW just shy of 12 lbs. Have to wait for the season to start, (if the regulatory mess up here gets resolved) to see how performance measures out.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

What are you going to put it on?

1200SportsterRider

It's going onto an Old School Model Works Robin Hood 80. https://www.oldschoolmodels.com/rh80.htm

Robin Hood 80

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Very appropriate!

1200SportsterRider

Old School Model Works : Minuette

This might be perfect for a Saito 30 that's just laying around.

Old School Model Works Minuette just released.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

you know when I first got in the hobby I really didn't care much for the old school planes. but as I grew older I could see their attraction. that Robin with it's large nose and short windows has the old "classic machinery design", like the old lathers and mills I have always respected and loved.

Jim

1200SportsterRider

Interesting, when I first saw this I thought it would be a two stroke only plane, but there is a build on the Old School Model Works site of one with a Saito FA 40-a. Whoda thought that. It uses elevons, no rudder. The images are on Flicker and I can't download them.

kmeyers

As Stella would say "Harcourt Fenton Mudd have you been drinking again?"

gigle gigle way to easy.

Came over here to get some guesses on the right prop size for an FA180 I've converted to gasoline and will put in a 1/4 scale Sig Cub?

Glowgeek

For a Cub an 18x6 or 18x6W would be a good choice. These props will load the 180 a little heavier (mid to high 8K rpm), that will help keep the rpm down so the engine will run cooler. I'm using the same setup on my 1/4 Cub. The use of inlet air baffling on cowled gassers is also a very good idea.

1200SportsterRider

Anything handy can be used as a helper. Even 7ah gel cell batteries that were totally worthless as batteries are very useful as weights. Another beauty of the Old School kits they come with plans for both the right and left fuselage sides.

Glowgeek

Looks good, Dave. I like all those little lightweight gussets.

1200SportsterRider

They're very easy to use, I have the firewall back to F7 joined, F-3 is the only firewall in place, F-2 and the .25" F-1 install later. You build those gear mounts yourself, three .125" layers and then the two top pieces for each mount, they are epoxied in place. I used an ACE RC 3/16" 12" long drill bit for a gauge to space the top pieces correctly.


The center of this hole is the thrust line, a whole lot of the Saito 125 going to stick up above the fuse.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Harcourt Fenton Mudd. LOL correct. he played his part funny but wonderfully done.

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Dave & Lonnie. thanks for the PM guys!

Jim

1200SportsterRider

I came to the first thing I opted to change on the RH 80 construction, the supplied dowel for center of the elevator is 6mm. The difference is not obvious in the picture but when side by it is. The one I used is .25". My opinion thinks it is much better.

Glowgeek

Says "1/4" dia. Wooden Dowel" on the print. Packaged the wrong part?

1200SportsterRider

They are so close it probably doesn't matter, but you know me.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thumbs up!

1200SportsterRider

I hinged the elevator with .125" pin hinges and built the fin and rudder. I also soldered up the main gear.