flyerdave

My Feedback: (212)

Just bought a new saito 180. Have always owned os2 strokes and am looking forward to running this sweet looking engine. dynaflite decathlon, 89'' wingspan, what prop and fuel should I use? oh and the engine is mounted inverted. Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Use your 2 stroke fuel

gjeffers

i like(or i should say my 180) 10% OMEGA, just picked up 4 more gallons today. if i go over 15% then she seems to run unsteady.

RPM1

My Feedback: (2)

I have a .91 that was in a damaged when the elevator broke on my ultra stick, I replaced it with a 100. The cylinder, intake / exhaust manifold, valve covers and crankshaft are the parts that were damaged. Everything else is in good shape. I am willing to sell everything else if someone needs parts. It's a "D" model case. Send me a pm with what you need and an offer.

hamman

My Feedback: (61)

Hi all,
I need some help with a Saito 100 twin, The engine was in a crash and the right clylinder was broke off. I replaced the jug, piston and both con rods and numerous other parts that were affected and while i was at it I went ahead and replaced the piston ring on the left side and lapped in the valves... the problem I'm having is idle dropping out on the left cylinder even with glow heat on... The engine runs too rich at idle and lower midrange even with air bleed screw turn out... The engine runs great at 3500 rpm and higher... I'm using a 13x8 simitar prop turning 10,000 rpm at normal Saito hi end adjustment, using 15% wildcat fuel... I did the normal breaking procedure I've done on my singles... I have run almost one gallon of fuel through it and it hasn't improved much at all... I disassembled the carb 2 times to make sure there is no dirt in it and payed a lot of attention to the idle air bleed areas... The compression is dead even on both sides and I have rechecked cam timing... I have tried a couple new sets of OS 4 stoke glow plugs... What am I missing, probably something very obvious! I'm using dual clunks and feed lines equal length to the carb... The fuel tank on my test stand is slightly lower than the carb... The right cylinder seems to be just fine... Any help would be appreciated... Thanks, Larry

XJet

Uh-oh!

I don't know about the 100 twin but most of the single-cylinder engines don't have inserts for the valve-seats, they're just a thin layer of chrome plated directly onto the aluminum.

If the 100T is the same then you may have stuffed that jug by trying to lap the valves.

Someone else will know for sure.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

On the 100T you can lap the valves because it is ABC. It has bronze valve seats instead of the chrome plated aluminum ones

hamman

My Feedback: (61)

only polished them with auto body swirl mark remover, anyway the vales are not leaking, thats not the problem. The compression is not off. Thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Try loosening the valves a little on the left cylinder and see what happens. Like run the right at .0015" and the left at .004"

This engine may get better with using it more

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Also on the carburetor, the air bleed hole in the barrel is only exposed to the atmosphere in a small throttle arm position range. You may not be in the sweet spot?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The current 100T has a dual carb on it with two air bleeds. On the left cylinder the air bleed screw is in front of the high speed needle and on the right cylinder it is behind the high speed needle

hamman

My Feedback: (61)

Thats the way mine is, dual carb but its in one piece... I had it apart 2 times and blew out all the passages with air... I will check the valves again, I have heard that it does take some time to get them broke in and you don't need to use glow heat at idle... maybe I'm just too impatiant! I got the engine just to play with awhile and was going to sell it but I want to make sure its right before I do. Thanks, Larry W8KFM

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It's 8 degrees outside right now. Mighty cold to have your hand in the prop blast.

Yes the dual carb is one piece.

hamman

My Feedback: (61)

I run my engines in my semi truck garage, use the exhaust fan to clear the smoke! Soon as the coffee is ready have to get in that dumb truck and head for western In. Do you operate any 40 meters? I use to be on 7.258 alot and still do check in midcars some from my 18 wheel mobile. Larry

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Check your mail on that one

eclecticant

My Feedback: (10)

WILLIAM ROBISON
HI COULD USE SOME INFO, I PURCHAST TO SAITOS 150 & 180. tHE NEW 150 IS OLD STOCK, I HAVE HEARD THEY HAD TROUBLE WITH THE EARLY ONES,SOMETHING ABOUT A BENT SHAFT THAT BLUE ENGINES.
ANY INFO YOU HAVE WOULD BE GOOD & HOW WOULD I TELL THE AGE,IF POS.,i HAVE NO MANUAL FOR ETHIER.

THANKS ECLECTICANT KEN

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You can download a manual for your engines here....

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...der_Manual.pdf

I haven't heard those rumors about the 150. If the front of the shaft is bent, you can determine that yourself.

The first 150's had a muffler outlet with 6 or 8 small holes instead of a short pipe with one hole.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I received a TurboHeader in the USPS today, neatly and simply packaged. Everything is assembled save for mounting it. I tested it on a Saito 1.00 GK. This muffler is designed for tight or cowled situations and you get 250 plus extra rpm in the bargain. It has a deep throaty sound that is impressive in the midrange. The 260 rpm gain I got is right where Jim said it would be. I also have an APC 14x8 and 15x6 to try also. The Bolly was perfectly balanced right out of the package, the APCs need some work, they all came today. The ridge around the outlet would be handy if an extension is used, it did not cook any of the exhaust residue onto the muffler, whether that be true in 100 degree weather remains to be seen. I applied two wraps of Teflon Plumbers Tape and ran (2) 16 oz tanks through it and it did not budge. When the 13x1 for the Saito 1.25 is released I will buy it as well and report here. These numbers are peak only as richening down is subjective and not done equally among users. The quality is self evident.
Prop Bolly 13.5x8
Fuel WildCat 15%/18%/80/20 blend
Plug GloDevil 4c special OSf equiv.
Rpm with stock cast muffler==9,910
Rpm with TurboHeader=====10,170
Ambient temp======18 degrees F
Pic #3 is at full song
Pic #4 shows low tank position on PSP, muffler pressure at idle was suffecient to empty the tank, the mixture did not change throughout the tank from full to empty.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=256404

OzarksFlyer

To all those who entered comments relative to my earlier post, above, thanks much. You've helped me a lot. Think I'll go with the 15x6 prop as planned, but I'll use 15% nitro fuel instead of 30%. This is a great thread.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Xlnt report Dave! I am really glad to hear this thing works as advertised.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

-------------


You don't need more than 15% nitro in a Saito unless you are flying a heavy 3D model and can't replace the present engine with a larger one, if it is underpowered.

Ed Cregger

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Tom, are you going to give one a try?

rideblue

Help Me Help Me.. I have had this saito 80 for a while now and got it from a friend and knowing nothing about how old and used the motor is all I can say is the compression is ungodly strong.. and the rockers look clean cause i adjusted the valves they were a little off.,and looked very clean so im going to believe that the motor was not used much.. Now this thing wont run for crap I have adjusted it again and again and cant make it keep a wide open or even 3/4 open continous run the low end i can keep it going but it misses and suptters nonstop prop sizes used were 13x6,12x6,11x9 all do the same and my tank is pretty much level with the motor to me it seems like your hotrod moter when your timing is off badly .. or or its got a summit cam in it I dont know about any good ideas .... thanks ooo yea i also am using the exhaust nip should i be using the crank pressure to pressurize my tank

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

My guess is that the Low Speed needle is set way too rich, the Low Speed needle controls about 85 percent of the throttle range from idle to almost wide open. Peak the engine at full throttle and then procede to lean the LS needle 1/8th turn at a time. Test the idle and transtion after every other change you can.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yes, I think I will.