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Old 03-05-2007, 04:01 PM
  #6551  
Hobbsy
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I did, the baffle has virtually no effect on the rpm but the sound is much nicer with the baffle. I'm hoping one of the HP calculatin gurus will see which has the most hp the 14x6 @ 10,050 or the Bolly 13.5x8 at 9,850. I didn't expect that kind of rpm with the Bolly.
Old 03-05-2007, 05:18 PM
  #6552  
Birman
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Thanks for the info Dave. I'm going to order a baffle from Jim in order to get the nicer sound.

Larry
Old 03-05-2007, 05:22 PM
  #6553  
RVM
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I am surprised the baffle had no effect. It must be a very efficient design. That says a lot for the designer.
Old 03-05-2007, 05:38 PM
  #6554  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Thank you RVM, Larry your baffle will be in the mail tomorrow.

Thanks for the report Hobbsy!

Jim
Old 03-05-2007, 05:41 PM
  #6555  
Kmot
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

14x6 = 1.51 HP

13.5x8 = 1.64 HP
Old 03-05-2007, 07:23 PM
  #6556  
Birman
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Jim, I can't thank you enough!!!

Larry
Old 03-05-2007, 07:26 PM
  #6557  
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Larry,

Just providing the service you deserve. Thank you!

Jim
Old 03-06-2007, 02:08 PM
  #6558  
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My first post to the club! I took up flying Powered Parachutes about 6 years ago and lost interest in R/C. I am jumping back into r/c feet first and now need some help from club Saito.

Issue #1
What I have: U-Can-Do .46 with a borrowed Saito .72 engine. (minus landing gear since a deadstick last Saturday, Doh!) 30% Morgan Heli fuel, new O.S. F plug, mounted inverted.

What it does: It randomly dies in-flight. Flying straight and level, sometimes sputters when I pull up hard, 2-3 normal flights, the next one it dies. It seems if it dies once, it will usually die again in the next flight or two. It is very unpredictable.

What I have tried: I used Hobsy's tuning method, peaked the HS with a tach, then peaked the LS with a tach, then richened the LS about 300 RPM, then peaked the HS and richened about 400 RPM. It gives a nice smoke trail when flying and idles good to slightly rich.

Suggestions from others I haven't tried: Install a fuel filter, re-isolate the engine mounting to make sure there are no bubbles, setting the valves, get an O.S. :P

Is there anything else I am overlooking here?



Issue #2
I'm installing a Saito 1.80 inverted in a CMPro Giles 202. The carb hits the motor mount and will not let the engine go far enough back. It looks like the simplest option is to rotate the intake 90 degrees. I will be using an Ironbay regulator, so the carb position shouldn't be a factor, but I am concerned about the vibration and the intake/carb staying in place.




Thanks!

Kendall
Baton Rouge, La
Old 03-06-2007, 03:52 PM
  #6559  
Hobbsy
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Just a guess, but I'd say the LS needle may be a little lean, try richening it 1/8th turn, the LS needle controls about 85% of the throttle range.
Old 03-06-2007, 04:13 PM
  #6560  
RVM
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If Hobbsy's suggestion to richen the low speed doesn't work, I would tell you to backflush your filter if you have one and check your tank positioning. Something is causing the engine to lean out.

Do you have the pressure line from the muffler to the tank connected properly?


I have never had a problem from rotating a carb on a Saito, nor have I ever heard of one. It should be perfectly fine the way you described.

The Iron Bay regulator is a very nice unit. I would recommend, based on personal experience, that you pull the nipples off, clean the threads in both the housing and on the nipples, get some O-Rings that will fit properly, liberally apply blue LocTite to the threads and tighten down. Clean up the excess LocTite and let it dry for an hour. The reason I suggest this is because I had a massive air leak in my IB regulator and I believe it may have caused me to damage an engine (not sure if the engine is damaged yet, most likely there is just a lot of crud in it from using Marvel Mystery Oil as an ARO *sigh*, but it is possible that the air leak caused it to run very lean and hot - Hobbsy is checking it out for me).
Old 03-06-2007, 06:34 PM
  #6561  
rfan_1
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hello, I want to use the motor mount that Saito provides for their FA-220 engine. (p/n SAI220A95) Does anyone know the distance from the firewall to prop hub face for this mount. I need to see if the mount will provide adequate spinner to cowl clearance for the plane I plan to put it on and since the mount has the motor holes already drilled and tapped, the distance is fixed.
TIA.
RFan
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:14 PM
  #6562  
Pit-Viper 1
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ORIGINAL: PPCFlyer

My first post to the club! I took up flying Powered Parachutes about 6 years ago and lost interest in R/C. I am jumping back into r/c feet first and now need some help from club Saito.

Issue #1
What I have: U-Can-Do .46 with a borrowed Saito .72 engine. (minus landing gear since a deadstick last Saturday, Doh!) 30% Morgan Heli fuel, new O.S. F plug, mounted inverted.

What it does: It randomly dies in-flight. Flying straight and level, sometimes sputters when I pull up hard, 2-3 normal flights, the next one it dies. It seems if it dies once, it will usually die again in the next flight or two. It is very unpredictable.

What I have tried: I used Hobsy's tuning method, peaked the HS with a tach, then peaked the LS with a tach, then richened the LS about 300 RPM, then peaked the HS and richened about 400 RPM. It gives a nice smoke trail when flying and idles good to slightly rich.

Suggestions from others I haven't tried: Install a fuel filter, re-isolate the engine mounting to make sure there are no bubbles, setting the valves, get an O.S. :P

Is there anything else I am overlooking here?



Issue #2
I'm installing a Saito 1.80 inverted in a CMPro Giles 202. The carb hits the motor mount and will not let the engine go far enough back. It looks like the simplest option is to rotate the intake 90 degrees. I will be using an Ironbay regulator, so the carb position shouldn't be a factor, but I am concerned about the vibration and the intake/carb staying in place.




Thanks!

Kendall
Baton Rouge, La
My guess would be that if the tunning isn't working and if you haven't used a filter on the .72 that you may have problems internally. It really doesn't take much to score up a piston and sleeve to the point where it will loose compression and cause it too run iregular the way you explain, fine for a few flights then bad for a few. Check the temps ASAP after you fly and when it dies to see what the temps are and compare them. Usually with internal problems,P/S, you will need to run it on the rich side to get it too run right, but when the motor warms up and loosens a little you will loose some compression causing it too run poorly and or even quit all together.

One other thing, don't fly without a filter. These things aren't cheap but a filter is cheap insurance.. Hope this helps


Shane
Old 03-07-2007, 01:28 AM
  #6563  
Pit-Viper 1
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Got a question concerning running the crank nipple into the ful line, do you think there will be any adverse effects from the pressure in the crank? Should i run a check valve between the "T" and the tank? Here's a pic of what it looks like.

Shane
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:24 AM
  #6564  
Lynton
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I doubt that your system would work too well - if at all. If the tank is pressurised from the muffler it will try to force fuel into the crankcase, and even if that doesn't happen, the varying pressure in the crankcase will cause an erratic fuel supply.

Much better is to do what OS engines have been doing for some time now. Fit a nipple onto the inlet pipe close to the carb and connect the breather to it. I silver solder the nipple in place, making sure that it does not protrude into the inlet pipe to impede the gas flow. I have two Saito 82s which I have done this to with no apparent problems - and the one has had many, many flights on it. It certainly saves a great deal of mess on the airplane. Both my engines are in cowled planes where I can't add ARO so at the end of each flying session I close the throttle (to ensure maximum suction from the crankcase) and spin the engine for a few seconds to remove as much residue from the crankcase as possible.

I also "converted" my older OS engines the same way and have had no problems with them either. It seems to me what is good enough for OS must also be OK for Saito. Try it. You will be amazed at how much cleaner your airplane stays.

If anyone can think of a reason why this might be harmful, I'd be interested in their comments.
Old 03-07-2007, 11:51 AM
  #6565  
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Thanks Lynton, thats what I was worried about. What size drill do you use for the inlet and do you tap it or just solder it in place. I saw the new RCV 130 is tapped that exact way into the intake tube, I will give it a try.


Thanks

Shane
Old 03-07-2007, 04:28 PM
  #6566  
Birman
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

W8YE started a thread in glow engines notifying everyone that Hobbsy is in the hospital.

Here is the thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5525615/tm.htm
Old 03-08-2007, 02:26 AM
  #6567  
Lynton
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Hi Shane

The wall of the inlet tube is so thin that you can't tap it. Just drill a hole to the size of the nipple and gently file (or grind) the chrome plating off around the hole to give the solder a good bond to the brass underneath. I used silver solder because I have the necessary tools, but I'm sure soft solder would do just as well.

Good luck.

Lynton
Old 03-08-2007, 02:12 PM
  #6568  
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Thanks again...
Old 03-08-2007, 02:31 PM
  #6569  
Birman
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Lynton, do you have a pic that you can share?

Larry
Old 03-08-2007, 08:58 PM
  #6570  
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I recently purchased a used saito .56 that the previous owner thought that the retainer clip came off of one of the valves. When I opened it up, I found that one of the rocker arms was broken. The exhaust valve had stuck and caused the arm to break. I removed the valve, cleaned the guide by using multi purpose lube and running the valve stem in and out from the top side. in a short time it moved very freely. I put it back together and it now has compression but feels weak. Should a ringed 4 stroke feel high compression like a regular 2 stroke?
Old 03-09-2007, 12:36 AM
  #6571  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I would like to join the Saito club.
Old 03-09-2007, 01:52 AM
  #6572  
Kmot
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Our friend William Robison was in charge of Club Saito's membership roster and assigning club numbers. Might be awhile before someone else takes over and hands out member numbers.
Old 03-09-2007, 03:39 AM
  #6573  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

About the plumbing of the crank case vent into the intake pipe...
The only detriment might be a slight loss of power because of the change in vacuum through the induction tract, and dilution of the fresh air/fuel charge.

IMO, it's best to just dump it overboard by running the case vent line down along side the exhaust parallel with the muffler, and letting the schmutz (sp?) mix with the exhaust.

I wouldn't T the case vent into the tank plumbing, or exh. pressure line.
Old 03-09-2007, 04:51 PM
  #6574  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Just posted this same question in the general questions section cause I somehow missed this topic all together.

Anyway, I have taken my Saito 150 apart to replace the bearings, but there doesn't appear to be a timing mark on the crankshaft! The cam gear has one. What can I do?

John
Old 03-09-2007, 05:03 PM
  #6575  
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Well, never mind! I found a link to the manual...now why didn't I think to check the manual?

John


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