Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Yes sir, that is it.

kf6gub

My Feedback: (1)

What is this "oil slinger" in the Saito 2.20? It's not a part in the other engines of the Saito line. thx Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...dpartslist.pdf It's part # 149. My RCV .58 CD has two of them, their sole purpose is to pick up oil from the bottom of the crankcase and sling it up to the top to provide extra lube for the cam and lifters.

Sorry about that, I wrote 49 instead of part #149, fixed.

kf6gub

My Feedback: (1)

Hobbsy: Thx for the info. Jim

alfredbmor

Hobbsy, Proptop, Kmot, I am very thankful with you all guys, that is the help I was looking for and I appreciate your interest on helping anyone in the forum. I have several saitos but this 72 is the only one that I have repaired by myself, Bill told me last year that I should not use fuel with synthetic oil, I replaced the bearings about one year or maybe two years ago, I am starting to forget things, anyway, I replace them and now I can see a little rust in there, well Bill was right, luckily when I received the advise I turned immediately to Omega with Castor oil I will check my other engines (Saito 40, 82, 91, 100 and one magnum 120 FS) to see if the bearings are OK.
Thanks guys I really appreciate your time.

Alfred.

alfredbmor

One more thing, I do believe that somebody should tell something to the guys that publish this web page:
http://tech.flygsw.org/sick_saito4.htm
Under the word of a Critical assembling situation they screwed up the process and placed the rod with the chamfer towards the back of the engine, which leaded me with this situation, anyway that is now in the past and I am still very thankful with you all.

Best regards

Alfred.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

There are a number of things done wrong by the guy that put that engine together. It would be best if it was not on the internet.

alfredbmor

Thanks w8ye, I do strongly believe so.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I just finished rebuilding my Saito 120 - gawd, I've never had to handle those split, tapered washers before. There has GOT to be a trick to installing those things. They about drove me to drink...

A drink?? Hmmmm, not a bad idea... Maybe if I have a drink every time I assemble those split washers...

Does anyone have a Saito that they want me to assemble??? I like J&B or Tullamore Dew...

Bob

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

You must be talking about the valve retainers. Yeah, their loads of fun ! lol

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Bob, when I did the ones on my 1.50, I cut a piece of dowel just the right length to go from the dip in the valve diagonally across and down the length of the cylinder and rest on the workbench on the opposite side from the valve I was working on when I set the base of the cylinder on the workbench. Pushing down on the valve did not move it.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've recently changed the valves in three four stroke engines and I did it as Hobbsy has described

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

When I remove/replace the valves I use a beveled piece of balsa wood to keep the valves in place while I install the springs and keepers.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

A washer works good too ! They have those handy access holes in the middle.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hmmmm, looks like I shoulda said something here first instead of later - all good tips, thanks guys.

Now I won't have an excuse to have a drink......

Thanks for the info for next time,

Bob

Nitrodan73

My Feedback: (12)

Question.... I have been breaking in my new 82A this morning and I successfully ran 5 tanks of fuel through it with no problems. The first tank ran below the 4,000 rpm as the manual requires. I tried to run a 6th tank and the engine seems to have lost compression. It has plenty of compression if I spin the prop the other direction. I ran the rpm's up to around 7000 on the last tank and the engine never did get hot. I was able to hold onto the head for a few seconds before it got uncomfortable so I'm not worried about burning the engine up. I took the valve covers off to see if I broke one of the lifters but they seem to be in perfect condition. Tried new glow plug, igniter, etc. The only other thing I can tell you is that when I did get it to start, it ran backwards for a couple of seconds. Thats it! Any ideas would be nice. Please help!

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Did you check the valves for clearance ? Maybe they seated and got tight... ?

Ken6PPC

You said it ran backwards. Have you leaned the LSN? If so, perhaps you leaned it out too far. That would make it hard to start, and more likely to cause it to run backwards.

Nitrodan73

My Feedback: (12)

Have not touched the low speed at all. This thing ran pretty fat. Oil everywhere! I checked the valves. They look fine.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They will occasionally run backwards but not for long. They don't draw fuel through the carb when running backwards. They also have little power.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

My 45 would run backwards frequently when trying to hand start. I thought it impossible until I saw it! I learned to not fill the tank to the brim and that took care of that problem.
I will hopefully have a new bird in the air today! This one has an inverted 65, sweet motor. Man I love maidens!
MikeB

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

My 65 idles like a Briggs and Stratton. I love it !

Nitrodan73

My Feedback: (12)

Yeah I couldn't beleive it either until I saw the exhaust coming out of the carb. I think I am going to give it one more try today. If no luck, it is going back to Horizon to have them see what's wrong.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Four strokes will often start with the piston coming up on the compression stroke before the piston gets to top dead center. (Especially if there's extra fuel on the piston.)

The second part of the situation is that the tank is full and fuel will go into the muffler through the tank vent line. Therefore if the engine happens to start running backwards, it will draw some fuel through the muffler and the tank muffler pressure line. They might run for 3 or 4 seconds?

There is nothing wrong with your engine. You will just waste your effort and time sending the engine back.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Maiden went well. That 65 is sweet. Inverted and easy to start, low idle, instant response. Didn't dry the tank in flight, but would guess about 20 minutes from 10 oz. Plane needs some fine tuning and more power than the 65 has. APC14x5N peaked at 10,000 rpm. I think a 91 or 100 would be purrfect. Are the mounting dimensions equal between the three sizes?