N429EM

Thanks, Ernie. But, I wasn't trying to start the engine, or anything like that. Actually, I was rocking the prop shaft back and forth to enter some After run oil into the crankcase, when I heard the whoosh sound. I thought I was hearing an air leak, it was so loud. I hadn't heard that much noise before.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Just make sure the crankshaft is at top dead center, and use a single edge razor blade against the bottom of the cam cover, and between the teeth, to hold the cam gear (with the dot straight down) in place while setting the cam cover down. Also, I find it to be easier if I stick the gasket to the cam cover first with a little oil. When the crankshaft is at top dead center, the dot on the cam gear should be straight down.

seanblock82

Hi everyone!

I am 25 and live in Columbus, Ohio. I started flying when I was 10 and flew until I was 15 when I crashed a 30% Carden Extra 300. About 3 months ago I purchased 2 engines (SAITO of course!) and I need some help with my 1.25a. I would like to join club Saito so let me know if having a 1.25 and a 1.50 can qualify me =) Anyway I have my 1.25a bolted on a Funtana X 100 with Hitec 625's all around. After a gallon of fuel I am turning a safe 9250 on a 16x4w APC prop using 10% Byron 4-cycle fuel. My funtana is not pulling out well at all now. I can't learn 3-D if I cant pull out. What is the best fuel for this engine? I am tempted to go to 30% Helimax with 18% oil content but it says "Lubrication Package by Klotz" and does not say how it is blended. Is this a good fuel for this engine? I would imagine I should get much more performance going from 10% to 30%. Can someone give me some RPM numbers I should expect with 10-30% fuel with that prop? Its a great engine. I ran 3 tanks through it nice and slow to break it in. Also is 16X4W the best prop for hover and straight up out of it? I can pull up and go pretty far up....but if I let off the throttle the plane will not pull out. Any feedback is appreciated! Sorry so long but I have a lot of questions. Thanks for taking the time to read.

Sean Block

blw

My Feedback: (3)

#523 hy flyr

#524 seanblock82

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

RC Specialties reminded me of my days at A&P school..
As a 2nd phase project in Mr. Hamm's "primary engines" class we had to make a feeler guage for one of the big radial engines...it was .187" thick! (I remember being astonished at the amount of clearance required when cold )
That's right, 3/16" valve lash cold, so that when the engine got up to normal running temp. the valves would be at their proper clearances.
IIRC it was for the P&W R-1830 but I would have to go into the attic and drag out my notebooks to be sure...

scratchonly

I always understood that the aluminum case expands more than the steel components, which lifts the rocker arm assembly, increasing the valve clearance?????

TimC

It seems like it would be a simple task to take a Saito and check the valve lash cold, then run it up to normal operating temp and check it again.

gjeffers

rlmcnii is right, you can not have a check valve in a pressure line without a regulator, it just ends up building up too much pressure and forces it out the point of least resistant (ie carb or vent)

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I've been a mechanic for 35 years, and been flyin RC since 2002, and I don't see the point in any of this pressure hose needing a check valve, regulator, or being routed to a clunk instead of the vent anyway.

RVM

I use a regulator because it allows me to put the fuel tank over the CG on my planes, and also keeps the mixture from changing during flight as the tank empties.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

OK, that makes sense... I havn't had a problem with either of those issues yet, that im aware of anyway. I tune to allow for the lower fuel/leaner mixture senaro. I understand the reasoning for the regulator now though, thanks !

Daveb572

Hi Folks! Is anyone reading this forum because I have several questions regarding a Saito 125 that I'm installing in a G.P. P6E Hawk. Yeah, the ARF. I kinda need advise on how big to cut the cooling holes in the cowel, how long should I break-in the motor before goin' aviatin' with this new model. Any advise would be very much appreciated. Thanx! Dave Bryer

Gstan

After reading comments about plastic spinners I think I should purchase a metal one. I have a 72 that is not yet mounted on a Sig 4*40. There is no cowl to match so any recommendations as far as spinner size?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Daveb572- break your 1.25 in the way the manual says. The manual says 40 minutes, but longer on the test stand won't hurt. Remember to keep the RPMs where they are supposed to be.

RC Specialties

Proptop,

I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is the new home for my Saito 1.00, I learned the other day that the Airplane Factory, (maker of the Kombat Airmadillo line), had been completely destroyed by Katrina. I ordered up the last one Bobby had at Apex Hobbies. I'll finish it tomorrow. The tail pipe on the TurboHeader is strictly for looks. My wife says that I can mess up a work better than anybody. Hmmmm.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Roger that
[sm=thumbup.gif]

I think Bill (Robison ) mentioned that not all Saitos had the quietening ramps...and the ones that do, need to have a little more lash...like closer to the big end of the range.
Question is...which ones can you run "tight" and which ones do you need to run looser?

When I adjust valves on a model engine, I don't usually use a feeler guage...I just go by feel with my fingertips...and adjust them to have just a barely perceptable amount of clearance.

If you clean all the oil off from between the valve tip and the end of the rocker by sliding a piece of paper towel through, then adjust the rockers by placing your index finger on one side and your middle finger on the other side of the rocker fulcrum, all you ned to do is wiggle the rocker until you just barely feel some clearance.
Out of curiosity, testing with a feeler guage afterwards, I have found that the actual measurement usually is right about .002"

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Hi, everybody! Is there a pitts muffler out there that will fit a Saito FA-62? Thanks in advance. [&:]

Ernie Misner

>>> I always understood that the aluminum case expands more than the steel components, which lifts the rocker arm assembly, increasing the valve clearance????? >>>

Keep in mind that some bits of information relate more to larger, gasoline engines. There are some differences with the small methanol burning 4-strokes like the max temperature of the exhaust valve, tiny length of the pushrods, aluminum cylinder, amount of cooling oil going past, etc. It is possible in theory at least for the little glow jobs to actually gain clearance at temperature as compared to the gas engines that always loose clearance.

Ernie

Ernie Misner

In the Feeler Guage thread there is some good information that has come around once again about NOT setting the valves clearance with the piston at TDC. (find the point where the valve is fully open, and then turn the prop one full turn from that point.... then set the clearance) This will put the lifter fully on the heel of the cam or 180 degrees opposite on the cam from the high poing on the lobe.

Up until now I had always been using the TDC method, just an old habit I guess. I am curious, how many of you are using the TDC method and how many use this "180 opposite" method, or other methods?

Thanks,

Ernie

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Expansion of the aluminum case will increase valve clearance

I may use either method of adjusting valves. The TDC or one valve fully open. Doesn't make much difference.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

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That is how I adjust my model engine valves too. No need for worrying with feeler gauges once your fingers have learned the "feel" of correct lash.


Ed Cregger

jdr43

Hi all, I have a FA-62A comming from Horizon and I ordered a Velocity Stack. My question is what did you use to seal the gap between the stack and the carb ? If it's a O-Ring where did you purchase it. Thank you for any info on this subject.

Jim R

TimC

Jim, I was able to find the right size at an auto parts store. It is a green one meant for use in auto air conditioning.

Gstan

I would still like to know an approximate size for a spinner on a Saito 72. It does not have to match up to anything I just want to make sure it’s large enough for a 13x6 prop. Also, what is the shat size for the 72?
Thanks.