alfredbmor

Thanks W8ye and Hobbsy, I have bought a couple of them to use on a .72 and .91 saito engines and add air filters, since I will lost about 100 RPM with the air filter I wanted to know about the venturi efficiency.
Thanks again.
Al.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i am getting more and more convinced about castor blended into synthetic oil. i have all wildcat 15% nitro/18% all synthetic oil. i bought a pint of klotz benol castor to add to some of my fuel.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXS627&P=ML
it says 2 stroke castor oil, i guess to mix w/gasoline. says it blends w/methanol and nitro. it says racing castor, for racing purposes only.

if not this, should i buy some kind of castor at a drug store? i can't get to the hobby shop anytime soon.

how much should i add to a gallon?

jon

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

A couple onces

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I believe yours is purtier than mine.

Ken6PPC

Pretty is as pretty does..... I bet yours works just as well!

thrashin

Ken6pp, how have you attached this stack to the carbi? Looks like some epoxy?

RVM

Very nice work with JB Weld?

Ken6PPC

Yep! JB Weld it was. I have about 20 flights on this, with some, well uh, less than PERFECT landings. It is staying on so far........

swixtt

How did you machine this? i'm very curious... i've got a 100 that i'm using.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

A couple of days ago I received a Saito 14mm, 90 degree adapter to aleviate removing the carb to put a TurboHeader on it, and it does just that plus more. I think the pictures are self explanatory. The last picture is why I haven't been on here much lately. Picture one shows the position in which the TH can screwed on and off.

Ken6PPC

That velocity stack was really pretty simple to make - IF you have access to a lathe.

All I did was bore out a piece of 1/2" aluminum round stock as large as the I.D. of the carb (forget exactly what diameter), and turn the outside down so that it would fit in the recess at the bottom of the carb. I left the end belled, just for looks. It would be difficult to make without a lathe though.

I attached it using a small ring of JB Weld. I don't know if it will stay on forever, but it has survived about 20 flights and some less than perfect landings.

I think the key to attaching it with JB is to get the surface really clean first. JB won't bond over a coating of fuel/oil.

alfredbmor

WOW!! Hobbsy, that is a venturi.
Among the engines I have I noted that the Saito 100 is the most fuel consumer, which percentage of fuel economy sgould I expect with the use of a stock venturi?
Thanks for the picture.
Alfred.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If your 100 is unusually thirsty compared with your other Saito's, your needles are not set correctly

Edge3644

I love my Saito 180AAC. Have it for 7 years and I only replaced exhaust valve bracket. Naturally stock muffler lid got loose very soon. Putting 3 rivets and helped for good.

scratchonly

Hob, is there a reason your taper cut is sideways? I have a home made one on my 80 held with alum epoxy also; it has survived test runs and 1/2 of a flight, if you know what I mean. I made a flair by annealing the top with a propane torch and flaring it with a small ballpean hammer.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Scratch, William Robison said a 45 degree baloney cut is as good as a flair and that K&S tubing splits if you crowd it too hard so I just hacked it off at an angle. Thanks, Dave

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Saito 91 ..The high end Needle point is broken off . .The sharp tip/point is gone..about 1/64 of an inch... it is blunt... I do not know why as I just purchased the engine recently..used..... runs good but will not develop full power... I am getting 9100 rpm on a 13 x 8 prop...Powermaster 15% with 18% syn/castor.. Flying a Seagull Edge 540, 60 size... The airplane with the Saito 91 would not do a loop ... at full throttle, 8500 rpm... I worked on the tuning at home and can now get 9100 rpm ... Then found the needle was blunt.. Have not flown since discovery of needle point problem...

How much would the needle not being sharp pointed would that take away from the performance and rpms..?

scratchonly

If you can tune it properly the tip should have no effect. Look in the carb side with the needle out; does the brass hole look larger than the blunt end of your needle. if so you will be ok.

RVM

I'd just buy a new needle. They're cheap and the blunt end could seriously be effecting how precisely you can tune your fuel and air mixture.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I agree with RVM, needles are cheap. Also, whatever happened to remove that tip might have also bent the rest of the needle which could, in turn, damage the Spray Bar assembly.

Bob

jktenor

HI,

I have a saito 180 in a seagul superstar. After less than 7 months it seems to have blown the front bearing. Both the prop and the spinner are balanced. It has always vibrated alot and also is extreemly difficult to start first time due to high starter effort to turn over.. It has also suffered alot of dead sticks, but lately with help from fellow club members is tuned so it will idle for 20 minutes and fly perfectly without hesitation. My brothers 125 saito which is much older has an apparent bearing failure as well. This engine has always started with great ease and run perfectly which is why I purchased the 180.

Is there a history of bearing failure in the 180? I have already sent it back to horizon. The plane will hover at less than half throttle and accelerate straight up unlimited. I rarely full throttle the thing.

any help or advice from the pros would be much appreciated.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i have a .72, .82, 1.00. i finally found some time to run them today. i was able to hand prop all w/a chicken stick w/a backward flip real easy.
the .72 got upto 10,300 w/MA 13x6, seemed to run well, i set the LS so it would idle about 2600 and transistion well. but seemed to knock a little, didn't sound perfectly smooth. then i noticed the intake pipe was loose at the o ring, the o ring was completely loose out of the seat. i pushed the o ring in tight and had over 1/16" between the washer and the shoulder on the pipe. can i add something to tighten it? i opened it a few months ago, the bearings looked good.
the .82; i ran a MA 14x6, barely over 9k, ran well, but seemed to protest that much prop. any suggestions on the prop? i set the LS to a 2600 idle and good transistion, seemed to run smooth on the bench, hopefully it will be fairly smooth on the a/c. i opended the back cover and the bearing showed a little corrosion and the throttle barrel showed a little also. should i ask horizon to replace that bearing?
the 1.00 ran well w/MA 14x8, i opened the LS to be rich, it wouldn't go any higher than 9k, i tuned the LS for 2600 idle and good transistion and still couldn't get much over 9k. did sound a bit rough at full throttle, almost a reverberation (almost positive the prop was balanced), wierd sound i never heard before, it was consistent. i checked the valves once it cooled, the intake seemed pretty loose. the bearings i check a couple months back and looked good. any ideas?
jon

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

JB, if 2,600 is as slow as it will idle, it is till a bunch too rich on the LS needle, it should idle at 1,800 with no problem. When you get it adjusted for 1,800, then open the throttle slightly for 2,100 to 2,200.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

jktenor and jb86- are you members of the Saito club? If not, do you want to be?

Jb- I know it is some work, but look through the Club Saito pages for details on your intake manifold issues. This engine has some specific things that you should know about. If you can't find it, I'll go through it again.


Should we start thinking about an addendum to Bill Robisons's Saito Notes to cover issues like this? It would be the right place if it seems okay to everyone to add to his work.

RVM

An addendum would be a great idea, and convenient. This is a long thread.