William Robison

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Tom:

I don't know if it's deliberate, but if you find your FA-120 running a little too smokey in the mid range you do have it set a little on the rich side.

I don't remember if I've posted adjustment of the big block air bleed carb or not, but if desired I can make another.

Bill.

sodflyer

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Own one Saito 100...hasnt flown yet but it's broke in.... wished I had bought more when I was full tilt into this hobby. like it!

Kmot

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Sure, go for it. A little refresher course never hurts!

-Tom

N1EDM

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Bill,

Sorry for getting you guys off topic with my "Water Injection" remark (Post 755). Believe it or not, it was only a tongue-in-cheek remark... Never meant to make this thing go astray... Boy, you guys are MUCH too serious

BTW, Bill, I have an 'interesting' hybrid Saito. A friend sold me one of the 'old style' Saito 120's. But, when I got it home, I noticed that the mounting holes had been re-drilled to fit various planes. I wanted my engine to have mounting holes in the stock position. So, I bought a new crankcase to replace it. Saito says that the two crankcases are interchangable. I haven't put it together yet, but it should be interesting.

Any comments???

Bob

gerardog

Does somebody can tell me the characteristics of the Saito 82. How about power with saito 91 ? what propelers and RPMs? [>:]
thanks Gerardo

gerardog

Does somebody can tell me the characteristics of the Saito 82. How about power with saito 91 ? what propelers and RPMs? [>:]
thanks Gerardo

XJet

My first Saito was an 82FA and compared to my previous 4-stroker (a TT91FS) it is sweet and beautiful.

Now that it's run in it'll idle at 1900 RPMs all day and instantly spool a 14x4W up to well over 10K RPMs on the ground -- fortunately for 3D you only use full-throttle in brief bursts or I'd go up to a larger prop to reduce the risk of over-reving.

It starts *very* easily and produces an obscene amount of power (even on just 10% nitro).

One thing I didn't expect was that I actually get more flight time with the Saito 82 than I used to get with a Thunder Tigre 46Pro on the same plane. I guess the Saito spends much more of its time running at well under 1/2 throttle than the old TT had to.

The only downside of the 82 is that it does produce some pretty sharp combustion impulses that (on a floppy profile plane) tend to translate into vibration. It's not enough to worry about though and you'll have to pry my 82FA from my cold dead hands before I'll give it up :-)

Vallhala

Xjet

I hav saito 82a in a kyoho sensation 1400 and the prop MA Scimitar profile 13x8
And i hav 15% nitro the ground rpm is over 10ooo rpm.
I hav test a velocity stack jes jes more pover.
sory but her is vinter and snow soon.

Lasse Lindstrom

Vallhala

Bill
Thanks for information of the velocity stack.
its verry good ,i hav waiting 6 month
Lasse Lindstrom

William Robison

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Lasse:

Sorry you had to wait so long for the stack, but I'm sure you are already pleased with what it does for you and the airplane.

Bill.

Kmot

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my open rocker Saito 40. So I thought I would doll it up, antique style, since it will be going into an antique style boat.

I have painted the engine cases. I just finished filing the sand casting marks off the rocker arms and then polished them. Here are a few pics of my progress so far.

TimC

That's cute as a speckled pup Kmot. Nice work.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

What process did you use? Have you done this before? I'm curious if the paint will flake off once you fire the engine up?

I'd read a thread where a guy painted an engine with either Krylon or Rustoleum (I think it was Krylon) then baked it in his oven at 250F. He says that the paint doesn't come off when baked on that way...

Very nice job. You were inspired by an old McCoy 35, right?

Bob

William Robison

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Bob:

Quote:

...a thread where a guy painted an engine with either Krylon or Rustoleum (I think it was Krylon) then baked it in his oven at 250F...

You're probably remembering one of my postings. I've used Imron, Krylon, and Black Baron "21st Century" paints on Saito cylinders.

It's very hard to keep the Imron thin enough, the 21st Century is expensive, the Krylon seems best all round. I have also found that baking isn't necessary, just be careful not to scratch or chip it during assembly. When the engine is run that is sufficient to cure the paint completely. Or if you just let it sit for a couple weeks it will cure in the air.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yes, I have done this before. That guy you read about was me and the thread I posted on painting my Saito .45 red. I always use Krylon and bake my parts at 250*F for one hour. Makes the paint hard like powder coat. This time, however, I used Duplicolor engine paint. Had a coupon for it, and so far I like it.

As for the old McCoy 35, I'm afraid I have no clue what it looks like. Actually, my inspiration is coming from the old hit n'miss engines with the similar paint jobs.

Thanks for the compliments!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

The 45:

iflynething

I have a question about valve question. Has anyone worked with the valve clearance on a Saito 100 to increase the performance, and also possibly the fuel economy in the same way. If not this, what would be something that would come from adjusting the valve clearance.

Thanks

~Michael~

N1EDM

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Thanks for the reply Kmot. For the record, here's what the McCoy 35 looked like. Deja vu all over again...

Thanks for the tip and for confirming the Krylon.

William Robison

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Michael:

Quote:

...valve clearance on a Saito 100 to increase the performance... possibly the fuel economy...

Any cam operated valve will have greater duration when run with lowered clearances, one thousandth inch in valve travel is approximately two degrees duration on a Saito cam. In other words, setting the valve clearance at 0.002" will give approximately eight degrees more total duration (exhaust and inlet) than running 0.004" clearance. Not a lot, but enough to notice.

The far greater benefit of tighter clearances is lessened hammering of the valve train. Most of the late Saito cams have quieting ramps with a 0.002" height, by setting the valves at 0.002" the hammering is decreased to nil, and if you use a castor blend fuel along with the tight clearance cam wear is all but eliminated.

Bill.

William Robison

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Bob:

Back around 1961, when I was at Sheppard AFB, we'd go to the BX on Friday and get a Testor's McCoy 35 Red Head stunt engine, a couple spare 10x6 props, and a gallon of Supersonic 100 fuel. A little less than $10 for the lot.

Bolt the new engine into the plane we had flown the week before and the week before that, then have Saturday and Sunday to burn the gallon of fuel. When the fuel was used up the engine was used up also.

The next Friday we'd go to the BX and get a Testor's McCoy 35 Red Head stunt engine, a couple spare 10x6 props, and...

Bill.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hahahaha, you're right, Bill. If I remember correctly, a McCoy .35 cost $5.95. :-D

Now, back to Saitos.... But, I couldn't resist putting up that photo of the McCoy for Kmot.

Bob

mwm341

Hi there!

Are you still accepting people for your list?

Got 3 saitos: a 72 that might be going into an Ultra Stick 40, a 91 in a UCD, and my latest -- a 150 earmarked for a Sig Mayhem.

Spent the night reading the ENTIRE thread; looks like a useful place to hang out.


Thanks for listening...

jlkonn

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Bill,
I saw the Thunderbirds fly at Sheppard when we lived in Lawton, Oklahoma.
Also belonged to Northwest Texas Field and Stream right outside the fence!
This was before I ever knew I would someday own a Saito!
JLK

William Robison

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#116 mwm341

Welcome, sir.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks for the comps guys! And for the pic of the McCoy Bob!

I broke the wrist pin retainer upon disassembly. It appears the g-clips are superseded by the teflon buttons. I went to all three of my LHS's yesterday looking for wrist pin clips to match up from a modern engine. Or buttons. No one carries spare parts anymore. So I ordered some and just hope for the best they will fit.

In the meantime, the stock connecting rod was bugging me. It is sand cast, and had a lot of saw marks on the sides as well as a totally flat back and sharp edges. Stress points. Not that this is a high stress engine but it bugged me nonetheless. I did my typical mod which is to drill oil holes in the rod and then I shaped the contours of the rod into a more desirable shape.