Skintup045

I have a 5 cylinder saito radial that I want to put in a corsair does anyone know of a kit or arf that this engine will work in?

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

you're not going to get a "massive" increase in power going from a ys 63 to saito .82. i contacted ys for the recommended prop; MA 13x5 @ 11,500 rpm (that's what they recommend for 3D). it spools up fast. i'm not going to start a "ys vs. saito debate", they are both fairly comparable. IMO, i think that the saito .82 is just simpler.
jon

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHU95&P=ML

chemoman

I'd like to pose a question re. exhaust gas temperature of a Saito 100. What is it likely to be with a well tuned engine?

The reason I'm asking is that I have one and am doing some exhaust system repair (long story) and need to know if silver solder (mp 430C) will hold a steel-to-steel connection, or do I need to braise?

Thanks to anyone who can help.

Ed

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

True silver solder will work but the regular 60-40 solder that contains 60% tin and the rest antimony or bismuth will not work. The 60-40 stuff will melt right out.

chemoman

Thanks. The "silver" solder that I have has 4% silver, the remainder tin - a product called Stay Brite from one of the major hobby shops - Tower, I think. That may not fit your definition of "true" silver solder. I don't know too much about different solders.

I did spend about an hour trying to find out what a typical 4 stroke engine puts out for EGT without success. Any ideas?

mred33

Stay Brite is great for soldering landing gear and such, but will melt out of an exhaust system like you are trying to do. Real silver solder takes a torch to melt and is almost as strong and heat resistant as a braise job.

johnS555

My Feedback: (27)

Hey Chemoman, find a A/C repairman and get a stick of Sil Fos from him it will work on steel to steel and has a tensil strength greater than brazing, it will need flux, but so will the brass....unless you have ready access to brass, which will work........

gud luck

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

A soldering iron or even a propane torch will not melt true silver solder.

A Map Gas or Acetylene torch is required.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas

It takes a Map Gas torch to burn it.

John and Red have the correct information

Scooterpilot

My Feedback: (5)

HI All,

It's time to put new bearings in my Saito 82. I've rebuilt many two stoke engines but no four stokes. This Saito 82 will be my first rebuild. Can someone recommend a site or book I can read before I rebuild my 82?

Thanks

Chuck

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://saito-engines.info/index.html

The main difference is the valve train

The timing mark goes straight down with the piston at the top. Valves adjust .002" to .004"

You will have to use a puller on the prop drive hub before you can ever get the crank out.

We can help you as questions arise

TimC

Chuck, when I removed the screws on my .82's plastic back plate, I noticed they had been installed using a thread sealer. From past experience with Loctite on aluminum threads, I chased the threads on the screws and in the crankcase before re-assembly using Loctite. I assume this was done at the factory so the screws could be just run up snug without smashing or cracking the back plate.

p51delta

I ran my new .82 today for the 1st time.I used a APC 13X6 today my LHS didn't have a 14x4. The 1st tank was on the ground, rich, and low rpm. The rest, (5-6 flights) were done in the air with no cowling. Motor was never too hot to touch after landing. Power was good. My Edge 540 acts a lot different with the increase in power. I liked it. Only bad thing was fuel consumption. With my YS 63s I had 10 min. of full gas (260ml) now I have 6 min. on same tank with the .82. How far can I lean my HS needle out? What end position do you guys have on your .82 HS needles at after break-in? My .82 is 2 1/4 turns open right now. My YS63 HS needle was always set at 2 1/4 turns open after break in.

show871

Man, my 1.25 is really having issues

I have a new tank, new lines, and valves are just right. The problem is my max rpm is super irratic, up down up down at full throttle.

It does it rich or lean. at even a rich setting, it runs rich, then surges lean, then goes back rich. almost like there is an air leak or I am not getting a consistent fuel flow.

I did upgrade the size of fuel line going to the motor also

Thanks for the help

871

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Tim,

Yes, they do use some sort of thread lock compound. I didn't use it when I reassembled mine but I'll keep an eye on them when I break it in.

show871

Yea BLW, I tried all your suggestions and it really got me to clearly identify that it is not an NV adjustment. even at rich settingd, she surges lean. I can have a setting running irratic lean, and start it again and have it run much different than it did when i shut her down

ideas? It usually goes lean, then back to rich. is there a typical place it can leak air maybe??? is there some basic fuel line stuff I may have not done that could cause this? If there are bubbles in my fuel line to carb, but my tank is sealed ( brand new tank and lines)?????? if the fuel line is touching fuelsalage, or motor????

thanks

871

blw

My Feedback: (3)

It does sound like a leak somewhere.

Fuel lines are easy to nick. Is your manifold seated firmly into the cylinder head? Maybe bad fuel? I would try fuel out of another jug first. Then, look for leaks somewhere.

show871

I have tried fuel, and the lines are all new. the carb was reversed and all bolts are factory tight.

Is it ok to have the fuel line touch the motor. I have seen bubbles in the fuel line into the carb......i am thinking this could be why it surges lean when it hits a bubble. new tank new lines, what could cause the bubbles?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The bubbles are not good but there shouldn't be any relationship between that and the fuel line touching the engine though

chemoman

Thanks to everyone that commented on my solder question! Sounds like capital advice. I have brazing capability, so I'll try that first.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

show871- did your manifold come out of the cylinder head when you reversed sides with the carb? Any chance you nicked the o ring? I've had new fuel lines leak from the first crank.

mred33

I've had that problem with two strokes. I had the tank mounted to tight and it caused foaming in the tank which gave me bubbles in the fuel line. Check your tank and see if it is foaming. If not, then you still have an air leak somewhere.

When I said torch, I meant welding torch, not propane torch. Some times I know what I am saying, but it doesn't always come out right.

Scooterpilot

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the information

Chuck

lilcap232

My Feedback: (14)

OK tried the glow forum.........Now gonna see what happens here.
PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST Before offering suggestions?????
So far I get that it's concievable my tank is too high.
I also have low end tuned to a 1/16th of a turn upright (Runs like a top) move it 1/16th turn lean it stumbles and dies/move it 1/16th turn rich it stumbles and Revs.
ALSO why did I get 15-25 flights like a champ then out of the blue have probs?????
I had another club member take it home,disassemble,reassemble,mount and run PERFECT on stand, then remount in plane (inverted) same exact result......... I can Accept tank height but why the sudden change? Also lowering tank will be a pain in the wazoo and I am looking for other alternatives besides side mounting or upright.



Hi all, I have a U-C-D 60 with a Saito 100 that I believe is close to totally broken in, ( probably 25 flights or better).
At first it ran great now after a long while it refuses to run upside down.

Iv'e tried it both with and without Perry pump.

I've removed inspected tank and replaced all fuel lines and clunk.

I've tried to get it to run long enuff to adjust all needles.

I've changed plugs a few times.

I've tried to run it on my 30% heli mix.

I've tried to tune it with glow heat on.

I've checked valve clearance.

I've checked valve timing.

I've removed the (JUNK) easy fueling valve(permanently from all my planes)

BOTTOM LINE............................IT WONT RUN UPSIDE DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Flip it over and it ticks over @ 1850-1900 reliably, and spins a 16x4W APC @ 9600 on 15% wildcat.
Only problem now is it dies under High "G"s and idling vertical dives(I assume caused by low fuel draw at idle).......

HELP!!!!!!??????!!!!!! I know some one knows how to fix this as I've seen too many run inverted just fine.
What am I doing wrong? Is it my tank height? Is this a KNOWN problem with the 100/UCD setup?
Can I install a check valve to aid in the prevention of siphoning?

I really dont want to run it upright unless there is no other way (Dont Even SUGGEST side ways ) too Ugly!!!!

ANY IDEAS ARE welcome..........and before you say it ......I wont give it to you,I wont replace it with a YS (Maybe), Nor will I use it as a remote controlled weed eater.....


Thanks for your help guys. JIMMY

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

anyone lead me to a side mount pitts muff for a saito 180 on the cheap...? used or new. dont matter. thanks.