blw

My Feedback: (3)

I've never lost a muffler myself. They have loosened during break in and I retighten then when the engine is warm. Sometimes, it takes a few checks to keep them tight. Like anything else, you can get thread damage if they are allowed to vibrate around when things are not tight. It is just part of the new engine process. You get a lot of issues with 2 strokes at the manifold and 2 piece muffliers.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I haven't lost a four-stroke muffler either, but most of my four-strokes are considerably smaller than the 1.80. To make matters worse, guys are afraid of shaking their planes apart with their large four-stroke engines, so they soft mount them, which further aggravates the problem.

I don't mount my mufflers seperately on .91 or smaller sized models either. Like you, Jim and Hobbsy have indicated, just a bit of Teflon tape on the threads of the exhaust pipe and periodic recinching of the retaining nut will keep things together.

However, mounting the four-stroke engine on a really soft mount (not the Dubro version) can cause all kinds of problems with muffler retention. Were I building a scale model, I would use the separate in-cowl mounted muffler with flex extension. I enjoy building a model once. But fixing problems gets old real fast.

Ed Cregger


P.S. I have come close to losing a muffler or two on several occasions when running some of the thirty-ish sized Fox two-strokes. I loved Duke's engines, but his mufflers could be a PITA on occasion.

p51delta

I beg your pardon but I'm not asking for the exact, down to the fraction of a mm, spot, to set my HS needle to so my engine will run happily ever after for the rest of it's life. I'm quite aware, that the things you listed here, may well indeed have an effect on the final position of each individual HS needle and that each one is different. I would have got much more use out of this forum if you'd have just given me a straight up Ball park figure answer(2 - 2 1/2 - 3) instead of writing a bunch of sensless stuff. Don't forget to represent the hobby in a good manner and help others when you can and not treat them like idiots and waste type space. Keep the hobby alive, be nice to potential new R/C ers and promote youth in R/C.

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

air leak somewhere.... also make sure u can stop the engine by opening the needle.
also try the tank unmounted from the plane. ie. hold it in your hand to see if you are still getting bubbles.
you can try to hook up a dry hose to the carb and look to see if the carb can close the air off from your mouth.
just my 2 cents

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

regarding how far to turn a needle valve in on a 82 . . .

It will not backfire like a Y-S when you screw the needle in too far. It will just quit.

You can actually tell that its too lean just before it quits. With a 13-6 prop, the needle is a little more handy than with a 14-6 prop.

richlloyd914

P51delta,
Open the HS needle 3 turns. Start the engine and go to full throttle. When at full-throttle, and with the use of a tachometer, turn the needle in slowly until you reach peak rpms. Go slowly and let the engine catch up to the changes in the setting of the needle valve. Once at peak rpms open the needle valve to reduce rpms by 200-300. This must be done only at wide-open throttle. If you adjust the HS at part-throttle you will not be able to properly set the LS and the engine will never run as well as it can.
On Saitos the LS needle must also be adjusted. This is actually done properly with the HS set to peak rpm before you enrich it for the 200-300 rpm drop.
To set the LS: Return the engine to a low (1/4 or less) throttle setting, slowly screw the LS needle in until the rpm just begins to fade. You will have to turn it pretty far, they are very rich when factory-new. The rpm will increase as you turn it in and you will have to close the throttle a bit to compensate for that increase. When you reach the point that the rpm just begins to fade you are now just a little lean. From this point open the LS 1/8 of a turn at a time until the engine will transition smoothly, repeatably, and reliably, from idle to full-throttle. You will probably need to open it about 1/4 (or a bit more) of a turn to get a good transition.
Once the LS is set it is time to go back to full-throttle and reduce the peak rpm 200-300 by opening the HS. It may take only one or two clicks of the HS to accomplish this rpm drop. Again, let the engine catch up to the change.
A Saito will run with the LS left rich...it will not run well. They are not difficult to tune, but the needles must be set in the proper order.
82s are real nice engines. Good luck with yours.

P.S.: The above assumes that the engine has been run-in enough to accept full-throttle operation. If it has never been run, follow Saito's instructions for the proper operation during the first several minutes of operation.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I was trying to help you by educating you. Anyone knows that most engines run with needle settings from 1.5 to 3.0 turns out, so why ask a question to which you know the answer? Then you get ****^^ when someone answers you in earnest. Sheesh!

***I just went back and reread your original post. I would have answered it the same way, considering the information that you provided. "How many turns" is "How many turns". Some folks just hate being beginners. I know that I do.

It was not my intention to upset you in the least, or to make you feel as though I was talking down to you. My apologies.


Ed Cregger

Captcrunch44

besides p51delta the factory LS settings are usually right on. dont mess with them. must of the problems happen when you think theres a problem and don't lissen to what people are telling you. ed cregger is right, every engine is diffrent and there is not a spcific number of turns to go by. c-crunch

ps. don't jump down someone's throat when thay are trying to help!!!

richlloyd914

The instructions supplied by Saito with their engines (at least in the U.S.) make it quite clear that the initial factory settings are never "right on". Run a Saito at initial factory setting of the LS needle and you will forever be disappointed. That is, indeed, why the instructions inform the operator of the proper manner for adjusting the LS setting from factory-new.

Actual operation of a Saito quickly demonstrates that the instructions are correct.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The low speed screw winds up being at least 1mm below the outer face of the throttle arm

Captcrunch44

on all of my saitos i never had to touch the LS just HS. every time i see someone do this thay fight it from that pont on. but i just get lucky when it comes to engines. i only have one that ever gave me fits and that is the ops max 30. all you guys give great advice and i am not qustioning what you have found. c-crunch

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

C, I'll almost guarantee that all your Saitos are 1.5 to 2 full turns rich on the LS needles and would burn half as much fuel if you set them correctly. I have 16 Saitos, 3 Enyas and one OS fourstroke, none has been even close on the LS needle out of the box except the airbleed ones.

Capt Lou

Hi Guys, I am member #522 and need some help. I need to purchase a few propeller shaft anti-losening nuts for my Saito FA-72. I have the Saito part #. I checked with my local hobby shop and he can't get them. I found them on Advantage Hobby website but shipping charges cost as much as the actual nut. Do you know anyplace else that may have them? I would also appreciate their website/address. Thanks in advance!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Buy something else you may need?

kochj

I just got this engine and it doesn't run??
It is a saito 4-storke 220 and I used 30% nitro but it bearly runs at times...
can anyone help me out??

Here are the picts..

Capt Lou

W8ye:
I looked but there is noting I need at this time. My basic question to the forum was where do you guy get your Saito parts?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Kochj That is a gasoline engine it does not use nitro type glow fuel

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Capt. , Horizon will charge you $4.99 shipping for the nut

donkey doctor

Hello; Cap'n Lou I get all metric hardware from a local auto supply store, They all stock metrics nowadays. You could even get metric nylock nuts. If you only need one or two they usually don't charge me. Just take the old one along so that they can match it up.

Tbone4life

YOUR KIDDING RIGHT?

kochj

Yeah,
I am jsut kidding!
But I could just see someone who has no clue, trying to do so.....

boogermancan

i found out you can no longer get a 40 size saito or is this just the lhs i got to i have the saito engines catalog 2007 it has the fa450r3 on the cover the list now is fa 56 62a 72 82a fa-91 100 125a 220a 180 150 GK also fa 100Ti 200Ti no GK fa-90-ts fa-60t fa-100t fa-300t-tdp fa-182td fa-300tl fa-90r3d fa-450r3d fa-170r3d fa-325r5-d this might all that horizon hobby's carries not sure about this but i do see there name on the back page

Captcrunch44

ok ok I'am bad i read the saito book and it said that the factory settings are set rich for brake in. but i still have yet to hve to adjust the LS on my engines. like i say i just get lucky when it comes to engines. c-crunch

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Captain Lou,

Did you try www.horizonhobby.com ???

Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 90TS, FA60T, FA100T, 182T, FA170R3, FA90R3, and FA325R5, FA300TTDP, & FA300TL are still being sold by Horizon.

The 30, 40, 45, 50, 65, & 80 are history

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...&CatId=&Page=2