William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Gen:

If it runs fine without the Cline regulators why go to the bother?

You need to rig something to load the engine if you want to do straight adjustments - under load it wont run the same as it does with the wheels off the ground. Otherwise it's tweak and try, tweak and try.

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Tom:

Check
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33..._6/key_/tm.htm post 148
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_33..._7/key_/tm.htm post 160
for earlier posts showing the same car, and some discussion about it.

Bill.

solafein

Nice ride, makes me want to put a twin in a 1/5 scale touring car. I sent you a pm with some suggestions to avoid going off topic.

Chopper9

My Feedback: (6)

I've got 3 Saito's. A .91, 1.00 and a 1.80. I'm looking for a high temp gasket sealer that will work on the exhaust. Everything I've tried just breaks down from nitro and the temps.

MAAC

Have you tried any of the automotive liquid gasket material. Many different brands on the market. They seem to work for most guys.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Teflon plumbers tape will do the job, two wraps on each end of the pipe.

solafein

I use Ultra Copper on my 2 strokes. The Saito exhaust is threaded, not a flange, and as sutch it needs to be tightened every now and then. I had problems with mine for the first half dozen flights or so. I have in excess of a hundred without any issues, but I still check it every day.

reimorei

Hi all!! I´m the newest proud owner of a Saito 82. Bill, please add me to the list.
Btw, which low pitch prop should I use on this engine in a H9 Twist?

Thanks.

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

I can't say I'm a new Saito owner.. I've had a FA-45 in a box for the last 15 years..
As soon as I finish my test stand I'll take it for a test run.
http://www.pontiacs.org/pics/projects/RC/IMG_2570.JPG

I have it tagged to power my Falcon III in the spring.

Add me to the list..

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Newest "Club Saito" listings:

123 Chopper9
124 reimorei
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reimorei:

It has been pretty well established that the ideal prop pitch for "3D" is 3.75 or 4", and then pick the diameter for proper engine loading. The FA-82 wants to turn fairly high rpm, so I'd guess around a 14x4 would be a good selection.

Anybody else? I try not to recommend a particular prop - too many variables.

Bill.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

And number 125 is sscherin.

Welcome to all three "Newbies" who aren't really so new.

Bill.

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

I have a new 91 GK for my winter project of a venture and I need to know what one will go nice in the 4* 120 that Santa is sure to bring.I would like to put a Saito in it.If that is enough for the club count me in.

gjeffers

Reimorei, Bill has it right on, a apc 14x4w is the most widly used by 3ders

have fun and happy Thanksgiving all

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Dave:

You are now "On the List," number 126 is CTDave.

Bill.

canadagoose

My Feedback: (2)

Bill when are you going to put me on the list, i love Saitos and now have three, 1 FA-80, 2 old FA-30 open rocker engines (1 with only 2 tanks run through it and the latest that never has been run). I am planning on buying 2 45 or 50's for a twin project.

Terry

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hey CTDave, how have you been? It's been a long time...

Bob

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Terry:

I just thought you were already there - brain fade I suppose. Anyway, canadagoose is now number 127.

Bill.

XJet

If you're running 20% nitro or more then they'll also spin a 15x4W.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

It's interesting to me canadagoose that your open rocker Saito 30's have chrome exhaust pipes where my Saito 40 open rocker came with a black painted brass pipe.

It almost looks like your exhaust pipe should be your intake pipe. Do the 30's normally mount the carb straight to the head without an intake pipe? Mine uses a chrome intake pipe and mounts the carb near the backplate.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

New project: overhauling a Saito 120 Mk.I

I bought it used and it looked good outside but when I peeked inside, well as you can see it needed some TLC. The cylinder wall and piston loook great. Just need new bearings and a cleanup. Maybe a paint job....

canadagoose

My Feedback: (2)

Kmot, The MK1 30's just had the carb mount straight to the head unless you bought the optional intake pipe to mount it to the backplate. The instructions list the intake as an optional piece. I bought both these 30's new in the box, never been run with all tools, etc and neither have the intake pipe.
I've been watching with interest you're mods to you're 40, looks good. I would like to try and find an old 40 as well but as i understand it they are more rare than the 30's.


Thanks Bill for putting me on the list.

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

An upgrade you might consider; new valves.

So, you ask, how are new valves to be considered an upgrade? Aren't the heads the same size, allowing the same air flow as the originals? All this is true.

What the new valves will give you is the better spring retainers, split collets instead of the "C" clips. The retainer grooves in the old valves aren't wide enough to accept the split collets, so you have to buy new.

When you pulled the valves from the head did they fall right through, or did you have to dress the upper side of the retainer groove to get them to come out? If there was no ridge you might be OK for now, but the hammering that turned the ridge was also beating on the "C" clips, and weakening them.

You are going to replace the valve springs, aren't you? The new springs are sold in a set including the late style spring caps and the split collets. If you don't replace the valves you will have to reuse the original caps and clips.

Bill.

Pictures: C clip retainers on the left, split collet type on the right. wr.

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

Bob not bad,I have been sending you emial but athey all come back.Did you change it or what?

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Bill,

Interesting info, thanks! The valves certainly did not fall through. They required a small amount of persuasion with a punch. But, not due to the ridge you described. More like, due to a very close fit of the valve stem to valve guide and some castor residue. I would probably be okay to use new c-clips, they are easy to come by. I don't know about the springs. Perhaps I should just for GP. As for the valves, will you measure one of the split collet types for me? I think I can just widen the groove if I want to run the collets. Thanks!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Thanks CG!

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Tom:

As all the late valves I've bought are already installed in engines, and I didn't want to strip one to measure the groove, I hope you will forgive me for measuring the collet (from a spare set of springs) instead. Haw. The collet is 1.5 mm thick where it goes into the groove.

I have entertained the thought of widening the groove, and rejected it. The valve would have to be mounted such that it would rotate, and then a tool post grinder used to widen the groove. Mounting the valve in a jeweler's lathe (or similar) would mean clamping on the edges of the valve head, and feeding the grinder very slowly since excess clamping force in the chuck would damage the lip of the valve. Maybe you're good enough to do it freehand, I'm not going to try it. Safer/cheaper/less frustration to buy new ones. You have a $300 engine, why fuss about the cost of a set of valves?

One owner who sent an engine with a dropped valve absolutely refused to buy new valves since neither was bent. It was a failure of the "C" clip, the engine just stopped. I had to move heaven and earth to get a replacement clip, with the upgrade on the retainers the clips are no longer supplied. At the time I hadn't replaced all of my FA-120 valves, and I had no spares.

I suspect also that at least part of the "Gumming" of your valve stems was the hammered ridge. Now that everything is cleaned up see if the valve stem can be inserted into the guide (you can do it from the top for this) and fall through freely. If they wont, you do have the ridge, and you shaved some metal out of the guide when you pushed the valves out.

Anyway, hope this has been at least as much help to you as hindrance.

Bill.