boogermancan

im thinking the silver one to i put it next to my 150 gk and it is um clashing the gold and orange. the black is looking good but the gold dose not fit in .i been looking at this plane ever sence i seen it come in at the hobby shop . do they sell black valve covers ? im thinking a black out motor would look good in it might have to <paint / coat it black> some thing about black and orange maby its just holloween !

philfun

My Feedback: (58)

Hey JON,

Thanks a lot for your help. I'll try rc bearings .The price looks good too!

Thanks again.

Phil

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Those gold valve covers cost like their namesake. Save them for the future.

Get some old silver ones to rough up and spray black.

mred33

Well, the props didn't come in before the weekend so I didn't get a chance to fly the different props. Try again next weekend. I still have one question though. Ed Cregger said to add some Castor oil to my fuel, but I am using a 15% nitro Castor/Syn blend now. Do you mean to add more to it, or just have Castor in the oil???? I don't mind cleaning up the extra mess, just want to clear this up. Thanks.
Ed

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Put another couple oz castor oil in a full jug

mboland

HAving just purchased my first 2 Saito's I am curious about the use of Castor.
My standard blend is to have 5% castor, but the Saito manual says NOT to use castor.
I notice here that you are recommending Castor in hte fuel???

So why would Saito say NO CAstor?

Any input appreciated.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Saito manual in the USA does recommend some castor. The general consensus is a 75-25 ratio of synthetic to castor with a 18-20% total oil content

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I generally put about 1/3 cup of Bakers AA Caster into a fresh gallon of fuel with synthetic oil. Gives about a 2% caster.

Bob

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I put 2 oz in Omega 15%.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

Where do you buy caster oil, grocery store? Or hardware?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You can get castor oil at the drug store or discount store or grocery store.


You can buy Sig castor oil from the hobby shop.
http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...20_2d_20Oil_01

Sometimes you see Omega and Cool power oils.

Sometimes you see Klotz oils but make sure the Klotz is for glow engines. This is the one you want

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...+oil&search=Go

Ken6PPC

I have a Saito 100 that won't quite spin a MAS 15 x 6 up to 9K. It has a flexible exhaust pipe on it, with sharp bends. Do you think that flexible pipe with the sharp bends might be putting too much back pressure on this engine? I get surges and drops in rpm, and adjusting the needle valves haven't helped.

Any ideas?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The best course is the process of elimination. Get rid of the bad exhaust pipe and see how she runs?

Upnet

My Feedback: (8)

I got my first Saito 125...gonna put it on a U Can Do .60. Prop will be either a 16x4 or a 16x6. What size metal spinner? I'm told with a four stroke you must use a metal spinner. Any particular brand of spinner? Dave Brown...Tru Turn? I always used plastic one's on my 2 strokes...with the occasional spinner nut. Looks like maybe a 2 1/2" spinner...maybe have to modify it to fit the prop by grinding?

Thanks....

Ken6PPC

The model usually determines what size spinner you want. Fit it to the cowl, so that it looks best. I don't have a UCD, but I bet you will need a larger spinner than 2-1/2".

I like Dave Brown spinners myself, but that is just personal preference. I have a Dave Brown 2-3/4" spinner on my Saito 1.25, and I didn't have to modify it for a 16 x 6 APC. I also use a 16 x 4W APC sometimes, and I ordered a spinner from Dave Brown cut specifically for that prop. That prop wouldn't fit a standard spinner without modifying it, and they did a better job than I could have. If I remember correctly, the custom cut was only $5 extra.

Ken6PPC

Oh yeah... If you don't already know this, make certain you get a lock nut for the spinner adapter you get for your spinner. Four strokes really need locknuts! Here are some links:

http://dbproducts.com/

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DAV8227

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DAV9812

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DAV7812

You would use a long adapter for 2-3/4" to 3" spinners, and a short adapter for 2-1/2" and smaller. The links show you what I used on my 125.

Ken6PPC

You advice is spot on, of course. I took the engine off of the plane, and was planning to run it on my test stand, so I could eliminate several variables. I got it off, and while holding it in my hand, I put a little side pressure on the crankshaft. Whoops! I felt a little play. Not much at all, but it is there. I'm fairly certain I shouldn't feel ANY play, right?

I took the back plate off, and whaddaknow.... rust!

I have only flown this plane about six flights. I bought it with a used plane I got from a friend at the local club, and I thought I checked it out pretty well. However, I should have known it would need bearings - he uses Cruel Power! (OK, I shouldn't have said that - don't want to start any trouble, but I believe in using a little CASTOR!)

In any case, it just gives me an excuse to change bearings in a Saito. I have kinda wanted to do this anyway, and now I have a reason. I just hope nothing else is damaged.

Stay tuned - I might need some advice!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most used engines need bearings from my experience

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Upnet-

Great Planes makes a line of spinners that have a plastic spinner and a metal backplate. I have used those a lot. It makes cutting the prop holes easy and you have metal screws going into the aluminum backplate.

By the way, you are member #557.

lilcap232

My Feedback: (14)

Yes, the Great Planes (aluminum backed/Plastic coned) Spinner IS a great choice.
I have a 2 1/4" red One on my 100 and After many back flips and poor running, it is holding up just fine.

Yes you are correct the Fully Plastic ones are a NO NO!!!!!!!!!

I Once had one on a YS91AC and after the first BACKFIRE it Exploded In my face!!!! Some where I read it has to do with the prop slipping on the plastic backplate and causing the explosion. Apparently the plastics compressive qualities prevent you from ever getting the prop truly tight, coupled with an ill tuned engine allows the prop to slide on the slick plastic.

Either way goto www.greatplanes.com and check the specs for the UCD 60 to get the proper spinner. Also My 100 will spin a 16x4W @9600 plus, so you may want to ask around before spending the $$ on the wrong prop for the 125.

Just My $.02 JIMMY

Ken6PPC

Yeah, I suppose so. I just ordered a set of ceramics from RC Bearings.

The cylinder looks good and smooth. I didn't pull the piston out of the cylinder, and probably won't, unless I decide to change the ring. I am having some trouble getting the thrust washer off. I don't have a bearing separator. Does anyone know of something else that will work?

The crank and cam has a lite coating of rust, which I plan to remove with 0000 steel wool. Anything else I should look for?

Thanks in advance!

edberg

I just got my engine back with a new brass insert in the exhaust port and I reassembled it. But now the thing won't run, if I try with an electric starter it will just kick back until the prop comes off. I haven't broken in the engine yet.

Heres a video. I realize there are no valve covers and the muffler is loose, I have replaced the covers and tightened the muffler but it still wont run. The carb is about 1 inch higher then the center of the fuel tank, might this be the cause? After priming fuel runs back into the tank, is there a way to fix this without having to raise the tank? I'd rather not take the plane apart. The high speed is 5 turns out, the low speed is factory set, 1mm below flush.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=nTpWcvx0Kf4

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I watched your video and it sounds like there is a lengthly air bubble in the fuel line?

You need to at least have the top of the fuel slightly above your needle valve.

If the fuel is running back into the tank, you will continue to experience this problem of it quitting.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

On pulling the hub off - maybe you could borrow one from someone?

You might try a little heat?

I would just rub the rusty parts with an oily rag until the rust stops coming off onto the rag. Sand paper or steel wool will leave too many little metal particles. Loose rust is bad enough itself.

The ends of the valve lifters are often buggered up on used Saitos, you might have a look see at the ends of the lifters?

Leave the piston up in the cylinder.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Hobbsy uses Kavan spinners and they look really good. I'm going to try one myself.