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Old 11-09-2007, 11:42 AM
  #9101  
nitrofevr
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just got a new 82 yesterday. ran a few tanks through it so far and it is still really rich but will still hover my gee whizz bee with out ANY problem. running a 13x8 apc. what would be a better 3d prop if any?how far away do you guys think i can mount the tank away from the engine before i start having problems? without a pump that is.
Old 11-09-2007, 12:03 PM
  #9102  
w8ye
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Try a 14-6. Or better a 14-5 if you can find one? APC's are rather expensive in the 14" or greater sizes. Look to other brands?

For hovering more diameter and less pitch are better.
Old 11-10-2007, 12:57 AM
  #9103  
mike boxtall
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I have a Saito 125 and was wondering what is the best way to put these things to bed for the winter. It was in 2 GP Little Tonis, then I lost the Tonis. Both times to a radio failure, but the Saito survived. Had it looked at 2X, and it still runs great. I plan on putting it in a Super Skybolt next year, but this is the first year that I have it and not quite sure how to store it for 9 mos during a cold, dry winter.
Old 11-10-2007, 07:42 AM
  #9104  
w8ye
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Squirt a generous amount of automatic transmission fluid into it and try to get the ATF all around in the engine. That's good enough.
Old 11-10-2007, 10:33 AM
  #9105  
Ken6PPC
 
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ORIGINAL: Ken6PPC

I have a Saito 100 that won't quite spin a MAS 15 x 6 up to 9K. It has a flexible exhaust pipe on it, with sharp bends. Do you think that flexible pipe with the sharp bends might be putting too much back pressure on this engine? I get surges and drops in rpm, and adjusting the needle valves haven't helped.

Any ideas?
Here's an update:

The new ceramic bearings from RC Bearings made quite an improvement. I now get 9300 RPM peak with the same prop, using WC 15% Xtra Premium.

However, I still get some drop in RPM every once in a while at WOT. I noticed a bubble coming through the line is the cause of the drop in RPM, so I guess that is due to vibration. This occured on the test stand, not just on the plane. So I suppose I might have to live with that. I am now getting a pretty small RPM change, as compared to what I started with.
Old 11-10-2007, 05:09 PM
  #9106  
nitrofevr
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hey thanks w8ye im trying a 14x6 right now. has alot more hover control thanks to the larger diamiter and it slows down alot faster. the 82 does wonders in a 4 pound airplane
Old 11-10-2007, 11:26 PM
  #9107  
Ricky Blade
 
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SAITO PLEASE HELP! broken exhaust threads on my 125. shouldnt this be covered under the warranty? to add insult to injury while removing it for the exhaust trouble I dropped it and damaged the carb needle valve and needle valve tube (what ever you call the brass tube the needle valve theads into). now what ? help! Ricky.
Old 11-10-2007, 11:42 PM
  #9108  
w8ye
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None of this is covered by warranty

You will have to send the engine to

Lee, Clarence F.
10112 Woodward Ave
Sunland, CA 91040-3342
(818) 352-3766
(818) 353-7356
[email protected]

to have the cylinder repaired.

You will need this part to fix your carb

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI125A831

Old 11-11-2007, 09:35 PM
  #9109  
Schweizer K
 
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I have a 125 that lost its muffler and manifold pipe in flight due to the threads on cylinder head breaking out. Pulled out of plane (H-9 p-51) sent to saito service and they replaced cylinder head, and other misc. parts. Engine came back like new. I was still under warranty. I would at least call saito service, cant hurt to ask. I have had several of my saito's back for service, under warranty and not. I have always been treated more than fair.

Good luck
Old 11-12-2007, 10:28 AM
  #9110  
RC Specialties
 
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

W8YE,

What is the most popular small Saito single? Will the .56 and the .62 be around for awhile?

Jim
Old 11-12-2007, 10:56 AM
  #9111  
blw
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Jim,

The .62 is new, so expect it to be around a long time. There is no word on the .56 being discontinued from what I know so far. It could be a candidate for either Saito or Horizon to drop it, but that is speculation on my part. There would be a big gap in the product line in the U.S. if they did. The .30 seems to be a very popular engine by all accounts of owners, but Horizon stopped importing it for some reason.

Maybe the Saito 100 or 91 would be most popular. Hard to say past what you see on RCU. The 82 seems to be popular now.
Old 11-12-2007, 11:20 AM
  #9112  
w8ye
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The 62 has many parts common with the 56 and 50 including the muffler size.

The 62 is the same physical size externally as the 56 and 50.

The 62 has power superior to even the old big 65.
Old 11-12-2007, 12:34 PM
  #9113  
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blw and w8ye,

Thank you both for your input. I am trying to get a feel for the small single market by doing some research. I am considering adding a TurboHeader for the smaller engines.

Jim
Old 11-12-2007, 06:11 PM
  #9114  
Hobbsy
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Jim, please do, I'll buy at least 3.
Old 11-12-2007, 06:18 PM
  #9115  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hobbsy,

I will get a prototype going and test it on the .62. Thanks for all the input.

Jim
Old 11-12-2007, 08:39 PM
  #9116  
wiztom
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Hello All

My son and I have a 1/4 scale Cermark S2B. We are running a Saito 180 with 20/20 synthetic fuel. The engine develops lots of power but we have had intermitent engine quitting problems. The plane has an inherent design flaw as that the fuel tank is located very low in relation to the carb. I have modified it the best I can, shortening lines, going to a three line system, using clamps on everything to tighten up the system and using a perry pump. No change. The exhaust is a modified single line tube with a tap for tank pressure. This has always been a bear to start and has never idled well. I am wondering if a header tank or Cline porportional controller would help. I do not have any info on how to isnatll either so any info would be appreciated. We alo have a twister which tries to die on torgue rolls, (high G). Maybe one of these may help as well.

Tom
Old 11-12-2007, 08:52 PM
  #9117  
w8ye
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Here's a link to the Cline web site. There is a .gif picture in link on there about how to plumb the regulator.

http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/produc...uelsysdesc.htm

The real secret becomes - How To Pressurize The Tank.

Some people have used a check valve in the muffler pressure line.

Others have installed a tee in the crankcase vent. With one side going through the check valve and on to the tank
Old 11-12-2007, 09:12 PM
  #9118  
w8ye
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For a header tank, you get the smallest Dubro tank you can find and mount it as close to the fuel tank as you can and be certain that it is center on the height og the needle valve.

The Header tank is hooked in series with the feed line from the existing tank. You have a check valve in the line from the main tank so fuel cannot drain back to the main.

Series means that the outlet to the engine of your main tank now goes to the vent of your header and the outlet of the header goes to the engine.
Old 11-12-2007, 09:15 PM
  #9119  
w8ye
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You could try plumbing your existing Perry with the by pass system where there is a tee at your needle valve with a return line going back to the tank. The Perry does not pressurize the fuel, it just makes fuel available to the needle valve inlet
Old 11-13-2007, 01:35 AM
  #9120  
boogermancan
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today i was flying my laser 200 with a satio 150 ever thing was going good till the motor layed over all bog down and weak good thing i was up high enough to get back into pos to land then it shut down oh boy i was thinking she want fly like the twist at slow speed so its going to be a hot fast landing as i riped a 180 and nose down for some speed and landed it was a long walk down the runway to it. i thought it was a lean and hot problem . it was lean all right the carb had came unscrew from the head its funny the the flex pipe mufler came loose to good time to look at the moutning bolts so much for working on the tango tonight
Old 11-13-2007, 03:37 PM
  #9121  
edberg
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Well I finally got my engine to run smooth, but on occasion it will backfire and it ruined my nice aluminum spinner! [:@] The prop came loose and hit the spinner and dented it horribly, I am using the jam nut. Am I just not tightening it enough? I do it as hard as I can without cutting my hand on the prop.

Another thing is the vibration and the fuel spray coming out of the carb. But I'm guessing it will tone down once I lean it out.
Old 11-13-2007, 06:58 PM
  #9122  
mono wing
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I have got a quick question about my new (used) saito 150 I wanted to put an air cleaner on it and read in this thread about bru-line. Which bru-line cleaner will fit the 150's stack. here are the spec's from tower.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX9158&P=0

tech info
Set includes rubber boot and filter element. This course filter is used
mainly when flying above grassy fields. It fits Schnuerle engines that are
.45 size and larger


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX9160&P=0

tech info
This is a Fine Filter Air Cleaner for .45-.60 size Engines.

FEATURES: For use in Sandy or Dusty Conditions
Fits Onto the Carb of .45 - .60 Sized Engines

INCLUDES: One Rubber Boot
One Fine Filter Element
Old 11-13-2007, 10:40 PM
  #9123  
boogermancan
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

there both the same size 1.1 CM id unstreched 1.9 CM tall its a tight fit over the stack and getting the filter back in the rubber boot is um tuff and un willing to go back in but it will go back in
Old 11-13-2007, 10:43 PM
  #9124  
dragnbye
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

well i figured i join this to i have a 125 on a funtana 100 so far great plane a nd motor
Old 11-13-2007, 10:45 PM
  #9125  
boogermancan
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ps 2 or 3 zip tie on the stack to keep the boot from sliding down to the small part of the stack will help getting the filter back in the boot any thing to keep it from sliding down if you thinking about putting the boot on stack with the filter in it not going to happen well um any thing could happen good luck trying that but your better off boot first and then putting the filter in


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