blw

My Feedback: (3)

dragnbye- you are member #559

bldrums

I donno whats going on on with this .91. Ive had it for years and just reinstalled it on my GP SpaceWalker. I cant get a nice smooth idle and I have BLOWN 3 Glow plugs trying. This is the first time I have installed this engine inverted, but that should not make any difflerence. Its always run and idled nicerly so I checked a few things. I replumbed the tank., chked for leaks. R&R the carb and made sure everything is clean with no obstructions . After i set the high speed at WOt I go back to the idle mxture and its lumpy. At one point i had it close but not rightt. The weird thing is that is runs kinda , well tentative at idle and with the igniter hooked up its better . I have never had this before ( Blowing up GLOW plugs) I wonder if inverted and heated plug with not enough fuel is the problem here. But i have worked with the mixture settings as usual. I can get it to idle fairly well at or above 3000 rpm. I am using a APC 13 6 and I do set the high speed needle first backing off approx 300-500 rpm from 10k/ Im serously concidering reinstalling it like before at 90 degrees , but the carb relation to level of the tank will still be about the same........$.6.00 a pop for OS f8 plugs ouch , that smarts@ I now keep the glow plug voltage lower while working with the Idle but it seems to want to just stumble and quit when I try to bring the Idle down , and either leaning or fattening up the idle mix is very very touchy, making the engine just puck out at idle. Im not looking for a 2000k dependable Idle ( but thats what my 120 and .82 will do) I just want a stable idle.
help[]

boogermancan

<imho> a 13 x6 is to small for a 91 a LP15040W 15x4W or a LP15060 15X6 would help the idle no fly wheel with that small of a prop

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Yep, a 13x6 is a .65 to .74 sized prop.


Ed Cregger

TCrafty

Edburg,

I had the same problem with my 180. Turns out that the prop locknut (the one that had the threads for the spinner bolt)was bottoming out on the crankshaft before it would tighten fully on the prop nut. It was tight, just not tight enough and whenever there was the slightest hiccup, it would loosen. You might want to just try it by putting a washer under the prop nut/washer assembly and see if that changes anything. I hope it helps.

bldrums

Yeah, now that you mention it the prop seems small. Ill change that prop; I couldnt remember what size I had on it before I stored it away. Thanks, I ll report on the outcome.

bldrums

Re: 91 saito wont idle

Ok, sure , funny how you overlook things. I changed the 13-6 to 14-8 ( both APC) and after some readjustments, I think it will be ok. The engine now has a flywheel!. A 15 might even be better but Im short on ground clearance.
Im not sure yet why I keep shorting out the plugs but all is good right now. ( probably a short in the ignitor system or whatever..save that for another thread@!)




Any way, THANKS for joggin little brain

Beille

mono wing

Thanks for the help.
I guess that I need to look alittle further for a better fit.
the field that I fly from is real dusty this time of the year ( farmers field right down the road )
but hey it's big and it works. and not to hard to find the parts in when the fickel finger of fate points your way hehe.

TheShirt

My Feedback: (2)

I have a Saito 82a that bent the high speed needle valve and spray bar in a crash. Horizon does not show these parts for an 82. It's code AB. Any idea where I can get the parts or what other parts will fit this engine?

Thanks
Randy Foster

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI91S122B

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI10085

Piper_Driver

Try a perry VP20 or VP30 fuel pump.

Piper_Driver

Try a velocity stack if one is not already installed.

Saito's backfire and spit props when too lean. Keep it rich.

Piper_Driver

For a FA-91 try an apc 15-4w for slow power or apc 14-6 for sport speeds.
The heavier props help with idle. Speaking of idle how well is the low speed idle mixture?

Ricky Blade

thanks. i figured it was going to cost me [:@] ricky

conchohoncho

My Feedback: (120)

What size fuel tubeing should I be useing on my Saito 125?
Club member #260
Thanks,
Richard[>:]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Medium tubing works fine with a 125

XJet

Just a note to say that I'm bowing out of Club Saito.

No, I'm not selling my Saitos (I plan to buy more!) but the mods here on RCU are just too much to bear so I'm headed elsewhere for my regular forum-fix.

Of course you guys are always welcome to email me direct ([email protected])

See ya.

the pope

Here we go again , a typical Kiwi attitude when the going gets tough there outa here.[:-] No wonder we whop your ar*e at sport cheers the pope

parker

Good Morning, What is the best way to balance a prop? I have heard many opinions and would like to know how to do the best job, Parker

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Buy a balancer
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD712&P=ML

parker

Sorry it took so long to getr back but I am still at work and steeling some timt , I took the engine apart and cooked it in anti freez and it wotked great. it seems the problem was the valves needed to be adjueted.but I learned alot . when I took the 180 to the field it ran great just like new. I have a pitts style muffler and that took care of the stock muffler loosing up on an inverted installation also I started closing the trim on the carb on fueling and that took care of the hydro lock problem and helped alot with starting backwards

Parker

parker

I have a good balancer and I was told that I was balancing the prop wrong according to the guys at the field the prop should stop in any position and I was balancing it horrizonally only

Parker

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Yes, they should balance at any position. I also balance my spinner and backplate with the prop. When balanced, I scribe marks in them so that I get it all assembled the right way on the plane.

jb86

My Feedback: (8)

i changed the bearings in my 1.00, finally am getting around to putting it back together. i used the ceramics from rc-bearings.com. went in well w/o forcing the inner races. i heated the case and used a socket that fit the outer race (front bearing) and pushed it in smoothly on my drill press (using as an arbor press, easily, heated the case).
2 questions - 1) i spun the crank by hand before assembly w/the cylinder and it seems very smooth, but has a bit of resistance. to me it feels like the plastic/rubber seal on the front sealed bearing, am i right? it turns easily, but does not free turn when i take my hand off.
2) alignment of the cam gear. i know that it's been discussed a bunch of times, but one more time. i did the best i could by eye - the crank pin at the highest point, the dot on the cam gear to the lowest point, then i hold it all together and drop it on. i put a push rod in the exhaust side and it seems to be at the lowest point when the crank pin is at the highest. i roll the crank back and forth, that's where it seems to line up. am i right?
jon

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Not too bad

When you set the jug on, double check you timing again. with all the valve gear assembled and roughly adjusted, the engine should feel correctly when flipped through compression.

On one top dead center there will be compression. 360 degrees away on the next top dead center the valves should be equally open with one opening and the other closing.

It should loosen up a little after you run it.