vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

cool
for sure when you put it that way
so what was the XX time on holding rpm ?
it all would show that the slower the better for the first run.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The first 10 minute run a 4,000 is mostly for the rod bearings, I have never seen a Saito rod bearing get loose, even after 17 years of use. The higher rpm warmer rpm are for the piston, ring and cylinder. On most engines the rpm will slowly increase from 4,000 to about 4,250 over the first 10 minutes providing that you don't reduce the throttle opening, which I don't. Some increase to 4,500.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

vince.b: To be honest, I do not recall the exact times. It has been 25 years. But if I recall somewhat correctly, the 'normal' total time for a break-in was about an hour and a half. The slow rpm was due to the fact the full scale engines turn slow as a matter of course. Max rpm is 2200.

I think Hobbsy has a good schedule and rpm rate. Since our little Saitos turn so much more rpm (500%) than the full size engines it makes sense to me the schedule Dave has set up.

Captcrunch44

too all of you guys. i have been looking at a new saito. and i am tor between the 220 and the 180. i guss the the qusthion is dose the 180 have the power to pull a 15 lbs. plane around with desent proformce? c-crunch

John Raymond

I have several 82s and have new 100 my question is what type of spinner nut and how to properly mount on the engine?, do I use the the prop nut, lock nut and then the spinner nut or what? thanks

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

JR,

http://members.aol.com/harryhig/EngineAccessories1.htm

I have had great success with these prop locks and light locks. It works well to use one of these against the face of the prop (as shown) and follow it with the spinner adapter nut. My experience had been with Dave Brown spinners. On one .82 the end of the adapter nut into which the spinner bolt is threaded had to be filed just a bit to let the spinner fit tightly against the back-plate.

Please note: A prop washer is not used under the prop lock or light lock. There is not enough room on the shaft.

My experience with Dave Brown spinners has been good. There are, undoubtedly, many other good spinners for these engines. My experience with plastic spinners with aluminum back-plates has been less than satisfactory.

brockettman

Hello Saito Experts!
I am about ready to purchase my first Saito engine. I'm going to put it in the new TopFlite P-51 ARF 60. So let me have it... Should I go with the 91 Special ACC or the 100 FA-ACC, and is there that much difference between the 91 and the 100.
Thanks!


Fly low, fly fast....[X(]

Ken6PPC

I don't believe there is all THAT much difference between the Saito 91 and 100. The 100 is a little more powerful, and a tiny bit lighter than the 91.

Of course, for only $15 more, why NOT buy the 100?

Ken6PPC

...One more comment. You COULD step up to the 125. THAT engine will show you a real difference!

It is only a couple ounces heavier, but it does cost another $75.

Too much power is almost enough!


Edited to add:

I have a Nitro Models 60 sized Mustang with a Saito 100 in it, and it flys very well. The 100 is plenty of power for this plane, perhaps more than I need. (See third line from the top!)


Oh yeah - I'm NOT an expert! I know just enough to have an OPINION, since I have both a Saito 100 and 125!

sarashina

Hello, everyone.

I have to inform all here as a lover of Saito.
Mr. Gen Saito who was the founder and the chairman of Saito-mfg.co. passed away on November 29.
His age was 86.
He has really loved r/c models until he dies and he was a active modeller.

I pray its soul may rest in peace.

Captcrunch44

amen[]

Ken6PPC

My condolences to his family.

I'm sure his influence will be missed in the modeling world.

rexracer

RIP Mr. Saito.
I would think the 1.80 would be plenty for anything other than 3-D in a 15 lb plane. My 1.80 has less than a gallon through it and hasn't been flown yet. In fact, I will be asking some questions on tuning with a Cline regulator, but I did run it today and it easily turned an APC 16x8 at 9500 rpm. I think that works out to over 15 lbs of static thrust, but I don't have a calculator handy.

rexracer

Now for my question. I ran my 1.80 today in hope of getting it tuned with the Cline regulator. I got it started. let it warm up (it was about 50 f here) and started to lean the high speed needle. It didn't seem to be very sensitive and the engine was turning 9500 rpm +/-
even though I was changing the needle by about a full turn. It would slow to about 9000 when very rich, speed up to 9450-9550 after 1/2 turn and stay there for almost a full turn going leaner, then would start to slow about a full turn after it first hit 9400+. Should I use the richest setting that I get the 9500 at, or go maybe 1/2 turn leaner where it still runs at 9500?
When I tried to adjust the low end I really started to have problems. As soon as I tried to lean it to get a lower idle, it would die on transition. I'm not sure, but I think it's getting too much fuel. I say this because it was spitting tons of liquid out of the exhaust at low (4000) rpm, it was smoking a lot and still spiting fuel at mid (5000-8000) rpm, but running ok at WOT (not as much smoke or fluid, but still sounded rich) I've never tuned with a Cline before, and I admit I'm a little lost. The last tank I ran, after stalling a couple of times, it would take instant full throttle from about 4500-5000 rpm, lots of smoke and fuel out the exhaust, but would die if I tried to go lower. When I tried to lean the low end from the same 4500 rpm just to keep it running while I did it, it died anyway. Any help would be appreciated.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Rex, its best to set the needles without the Cline in the system and using normal muffler pressure. Then install the Cline and your settings will change very little if any. The reason for the vague needle is that the Cline is a demand regulator and is not going to flow much more fuel than the engine demands. Also you don't need to richen the rpm down more than about 200 rpm because you don't need to be concerned about lean running as the tank empties.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The main thing about the .91 and 1.00 is that you can use different sized props. A smaller one on the .91 if you need that, and a larger with the 1.00.




Sarashina- thank you for letting us know. Condolences from me.

brockettman

Ken6PPC,

Thanks for the response. I guess the real question I should ask is would the 91 have enough power for the plane. I suspect it would, since the engines are very close in displacement, but..... for a couple of extra bucks why not the 100? I guess the cheapskate in me was looking at the possibility of picking up a used 91 a lot cheaper than the 100. But, hey it's my first 4 stroke and a brand new plane so I think I'll buy new, maybe even the GK! The 125 is an interesting option, let me know how it goes if you try it with your 60 size warbird!!!

Ben

Mr. Saito's legacy lives on.



Fly low, fly fast....[X(]

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The 1.25 is a great engine.

brockettman

blw,

Thanks. I fly at 6800 feet and I'm going to try a 14x8 2 blade, a 13x8 3 blade and a 14x8 3 blade on a 8-9 lb. warbird. I think the 1.00 will suit me better.

Ben

Fly low, [X(]fly fast....

rexracer

Thanks Hobbsy, I'll remove the cline and see if I can get it dialed in. Hopefully the weather will hold!

originalspacerob

Hello Everyone,

I just got my first Saito today. It was actually given to me by my uncle. It's a old FA-45 Hemi Head. I have not mounted it on a plane yet. He cleaned it up before he gave it to me. it was froze from the castor and the last time it was used his friend used it in competition. Right now I'm going to fire it up on a test stand and get it tuned up and probably put it on my trainer to see how well it works. Any ideas of good places to get parts for the older engines? I went to horizon but they do not have parts for the 45. Also, this engine has no muffler, it just has the factory pipe with a pressure fitting. Will adding a exhaust make a huge difference in the sound dampening? Or should I leave it alone. Horizon sells a pipe for the engine that is why i was wondering. Hope everyone had a nice holiday.

Rob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The engine will not be noticeably quieter with a muffler.

It is more of a 11-6 prop engine.

kaastrup

Hi

I've tried my Saito 150 with the Webra regulator today. The wetter was cold so I only had 3 tanks (475 ml) though it. At first I let it warm up, and then set the HS at 8500 rpm on a Mezjlik 16x10, then thottle back to idle but it ran way too fat, and quick thottle would stop the engine with spitting and a lot of smoke.

The I leaned the LS at 1/4 at a time, and after nearly 1½ turns in, the idle is at 2500 and the thottle respone is OK, but still spitting a little. I'am a little afraid of leaning the LS so much.

The next time I will try (the Hobbsy think) to dial in the engine with out the regulator connected. One good thing though is that I have the tank sitting nearly 40 cm back in the CG, which was the hole purpose of trying this regulator.

This Webra regulator looks nearly the same as the Cline or Iron Bay products, it only uses muffler pressure to regulate the fuel flow to the carb - but I would like to know if it should work the same way as the Cline, or any better/worse ??

Also is the Mezjlik 16x10 to big for that engine ? I am going to fly a 5Kg pattern (Giles 202) with it ?? Or is the APC 17x8N a better choise ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

16 X 8 is the standard propeller for a Saito 150

The tank being 50 cm away from the engine would not make any difference if the engine and tank were always at the same height.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The regulator

http://www.webra-austria.at/motor.ph...ESSORIES&lang=