Ken6PPC

Ah HA! I can now tell my wife that those engines laying around were FREE!

rexracer

If you're turning a 15x6 at 9400 with 20% I'd say you should be able to turn the 16x4 on the same 20% at well over 9000 rpm. Switch props and save your money.

kaastrup

Hi there

Does anyone have the Saito Multi-cylinder Manual for the radials 325 and the 450 engines ?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Christian,

I'm contacting you by PM to send the manual.

rexracer

Bearing replacement question. I just got the new bearings for my Saito .45 and the new bearing for the rear has a metal sheild, where the old one was open. Do I need to remove the sheild for oiling purposes? how should I go about removing it, if so? Thanks guys.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Remove the shield

rexracer

I don't want to damage the bearing. Do I just pry it off with a pick? does it work better prying from the inside or outside edge?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've done it both ways. I try to ***** it with something very sharp. I have pried them out with a scribe. I've also used an Exacto knife.

Once you get under it and get started, it will just lift off.

It's OK if you want to just leave the shields on the bearing. It doesn't make a whole lot of difference. I've taken a lot of Saitos apart that had the shields on the rear bearing.

AKFireMedic

My Feedback: (2)

I just received a used, but seemingly in excellent shape, 125. Overall the engine is pretty clean but looking through the exhaust port there seems to be a lot of carbon type buildup on the exhaust valve. Is there something I should do to clean this off? I suspect that the previous owner used quite a bit of castor in the mix. I am currently running mostly synthetic with just a touch of castor and my exhaust valves on my other Saitos look pretty clean in comparison. Will just running the engine with the different oil mixture clean things up some?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It shouldn't get much worse.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Ok Question, Its probably posted somehwere and Ive overlooked it.
But me being the total newb I am with glow I am very concerned with this bit of info and feal I need to know.



What temperature should the Saito's be running at? Im currently running the 1.80 at 170-180* if it gets up to 190 I start freaking out like its over heating or something
Most of what Ive read about glow engines states anywhere from 250-300*!! That seems way to high to me! I couldnt even imagine the Exhaust valve surving these temps for very long.

Mike,

Will be getting an .82 in about a month for a 58" extra

blw

My Feedback: (3)

You can't get much useful information out of temps on glow engines. There are just too many variables and inconsistent numbers. Engines mostly get hot if the bearings are starting to seize or go, and in tight cowl situations. Running them too lean can run the temps up.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Ok I know it probably sounded like I was tuning the engine from the temp. Thats not really the case. I tune it like its suposed to be but most of the time it seems its running rich.

Basically . How hot is too hot?

Really I have no clue ,all I have to go by is info that says if it starts to sizzle and crackle its overheating . [&:]

blw

My Feedback: (3)

That's about it unless you get used to touching the engine to feel. I never worry about it with any engine. All of mine are cowled at the moment that are flyable.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The engine will be different temperatures all over. For you to use temperatures, You most take them at the same position and angle on the engine every time. The hottest and most realistic place on a four stroke is where the exhaust comes out of the head. You most always be on the aluminum or the steel. The emisitivity of the two metals are different. Also as they get coated with the brown gunk, the emisitivity will change again. This makes your temperature readings very inaccurate.

The temperatures are relative and you will personally have to develop what is too hot by using other indicators.

Bottom line is to leave the IR temperature indicator at home in the drawer and just use your other senses.

rlmcnii

My Feedback: (3)

Please post your tuning protocol.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

This is how I tune it in. http://saito-engines.info/throttle_setup.html Its been a little tricky due to the tank location being so far back. Ive had a regulator on which you have to mount so close the exhaust burns the fuel up (pitts) and Im on a Perry VP20 right now.Was on the engine now moved to the engine box due to over powering the needle. Will give it a try in a bit. Also have some ball linkages coming to rid the linkage of play so I can get the low end more precise .

Thanks for the heating info guys! Ive been checking at the exhaust side everytime but the browning is becoming more noticable and makes perfect sense about the IR temp sensors. I just worry a lot about burning my baby up [:@]

Thanks again
Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You've already said it all about the I-R temperature detector.

The Saito Info site is a very good one.

rexracer

there is nothing in one of these Saitos that will be bothered at 300 degrees. I have a car motor that usuallt runs between 300 and 310 and it's still going strong. Not trying to say that a Saito should be anywhere near 300- just that the TEMP won't hurt it.

s_moorman

Anyone here ever make an exhaust pipe extension for a saito? I've got a 180 that I want to use the stock muffler on but the pipe is about 2" too short to get it to where I want to exit the cowling. I don't want to use the flex pipe because I tap my pipes for smoke tank pressure. Any ideas?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The pipe is mighty close to 1/4" water pipe

rexracer

maybe one of the right angle adaptors will get you where you need to be? It worked for me on my 1.80.

slong

Hello, I have two Saito engines a Saito 62 in a Great planes Easy Sport 40, and a Saito 100 in my Hangar 9 Spitfire. I am installing a Saito 180 in my Seagull Super Star. The prior listed are awsome, run great and are powerful and very reliable I have had no problems at all except for easy fluding on my Spitfire.

lauterbacher

can one of you saito guys please help me out, I've picked up a saito 91 of of e-bay and was wanting to know if one of you guys can tell me how many turns the high speed needle needs to be turned out from full in and what the low speed needle should be set at. thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If it has a steel throttle arm the LS screw is flush with the throttle arm

If it has a plastic throttle arm the needle is about 1mm below the surface of the throttle arm

The HS screw starting place is 3 1/2 turns