Test005

Ernie Misner:
Me:
Hello, any help on the lsn ?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They come from the factory, on the engines with a plastic throttle arm, with the head of the screw flush with the arm.

Typically the screw is 1mm below flush when properly tuned.

Geardaddys

Couple more Saito 125 break in questions..

Fellas.. couple of break in questions.. I started breaking in my new 125 last week, and I'm going to get it finished up tomorrow. Last week I did the runs 10-15 minutes of 4K RPM.. I think at the suggestion of a few folks here I'm going to do the following: 10 mins at 5, 6, and 7K followed by the low end adjustments.. My question is this regarding the low end.. I have a few guys at my field who have never leaned out the low end.. Also seen a few folks on here who have left the low end at the factory setting.. Is there any danger of getting the engine "too lean" and doing any damage by adjusting the low end? I have a pretty good understanding of how to get the top end set right, just don't want to get to carried away with the low end.. As a side note, this engine resides in a Seagull Edge 540 with a fairly small tank, so I do want the engine's economy to be the best that it can me..

Thanks again guys..

John..

Ken6PPC

John, my Saito 1.25 pulls around the same plane you are putting yours into. I use the original tank, and can get 10 minute flights with some fuel to spare, unless I run WOT. That cuts it down to about 8 minutes, unless I want to risk a deadstick.

Anyway, as to your questions. There are always some people who don't touch the LSN on their Saito. They tend to be the same people who complain about how thirsty Saitos are, and how much they vibrate. The real cause of their problems is the LSN is too rich. It is easy to tell when your LSN is too lean. So, don't hesitate to lean your LSN out.

Just peak the HSN (use a tach!) and leave it there for now. Then turn your LSN in about 1/4 turn. Idle the engine for at least 30 seconds, then rapidly go to full throttle. If it doesn't quit, lean your LSN some more. Keep at it, until the engine quits when you go from idle to full throttle, and then richen the LSN about 1/8 turn. Then go back and richen the HSN up from peak about 300 to 500 RPM's - whatever makes you feel safer. If your 1.25 is the same as mine, you will probably end up turning the LSN in about 2 full turns.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

It should just quite on you before you go too lean.

Follow the procedure and everything will work out. Heck even I was able to do it

Tbone4life

Ditto on the LSN. It was hard for me to lean it out, but it ran a whole lot better after I did.

Geardaddys

Ken,

Thanks much... I'll lean it as you described.. Supposed to be mid 40's tomorrow in Maryland so I should be able to hack it outside for a while!! Looking forward to getting the Seagull into the air..

John..

Ken6PPC

I really like my Seagull Edge 540! I bought mine used with an OS 91 FS on it, but I thought it needed more power. The 1.25 turned it into a much better plane, IMO.

BTW, it won't do it easily, but this bird WILL tip stall if you get it too slow on your approach! The landing gear is a bit weak too, but overall, it is a fine plane. I've considered buying another one, just in case I put this one in.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

I would suggest the following parts added to Ken's LSN adjustment advice:

first, advance the throttle slowly and listen for the engine to wheeze or start to die (too lean). Then, advance the throttle more rapidly if it first sounded good. This way, if it is too lean, you won't get the engine dying rapidly or backfiring suddenly......most of the time. My 1.25 backfires gently and you can barely hear it when it does.

1/4 turns may be too much for incremental adjustments. I run the throttle about 1/3 and start screwing in the adjustment screw until I hear the engine start to speed up like the HSN does. At that point, I use 1/8 turns to try and get it set right.

Everyone has their method for adjusting it for what works for them.

vmgo22

My Feedback: (31)

Does anybody Know where could I end to repair my Saito 80? the crankshaft is broken.

That happen when I was tightening the propeller. I know sending it to saito dealer would be, however I dont know if that is expensive or even better if anybody (with experience)could fix it at a low cost.

Ken6PPC

It is pretty unusual to break a crankshaft just by tightening the prop. Where exactly did the crankshaft break? Can you post a picture?

I doubt that the crank could be drilled and tapped for another threaded section to be added, because that crank is made of some pretty tough metal. However, I guess it is possible that someone might be able to drill and tap it? It would probably require some carbide tooling, and perhaps a specialized jig to hold it in a lathe. It might just be easier and cheaper to replace the crankshaft.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI8023B

You would also need a gasket set, and probably some bearings. There may be other parts that need to be replaced as well, depending upon it's condition.

If you don't want to repair it yourself, you could send it to Horizon. I haven't had any non-warranty work done by them, but I have heard that they are as reasonable as anyone else. You will have to pay for parts and labor, but who knows? Perhaps they will feel sorry for you and cut you a break. They might think that a crankshaft shouldn't break just from tightening the prop either!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Contact this guy. He will do it all

Bill Jensen
51 Hillside Dr.
Beacon Falls, CT 06403
203 888 4819
[email protected]
www.bj-model-engines.com

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Contact this guy. He will do it all

Bill Jensen
51 Hillside Dr.
Beacon Falls, CT 06403
203 888 4819
[email protected]
www.bj-model-engines.com

Ken6PPC

w8ye, do you think he could drill and tap the broken craftshaft? If so, that is DEFINITELY the way to go!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I doubt it. He would want to install a new crankshaft.

There is the matter for him being able to mount the crank in the lathe so it will be on center when it is drilled. I doubt he will have the proper lather accessories

Ken6PPC

Yeah, that would be a really tough job. It's a shame though, since (I ASSUME) the rest of the crankshaft is fine.

RPMcK

My Feedback: (1)

Why is drilling and taping definately the way to go as apposed to just installing a new crank? That's a process I've not heard of before. Ron

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It would be touchy because the front of the crank would have to be supported on a rest and the back has a hole the may or not be on center. Then the crank will have to be driven. He may could do it in a four jaw clamped on the counter weight if he dialed it in and had a real good chuck? It would need to be faced off and center drilled where it is broken before it is drilled

Ken6PPC

If it could be drilled and tapped, and I say IF, the crankshaft could be saved by installing a threaded stud. However, the cost of paying someone to perform such a difficult job would almost certainly exceed the price of a new crankshaft.

Actually, I suppose I was thinking that if it were mine, and I could manage to drill and tap it myself...... Nah!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some of the K&B 61 engines have a drilled crank and they have been that way for years. If you crash and bend the crank, you just replace the stud. On the K&B they are 1/4-28 available at the hardware store.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Same t hought here. I could drill and tap if I had to but I'd rather have the new crank and be done with it.

Bob

Ken6PPC

Yeah, it was a bad idea. I probably came up with it because of the thread about the K&B engines having the front drilled and tapped for a stud.

I think that is a better method of attaching the prop anyway. That way, when (rather than IF) it gets bent - you just replace the stud! What's not to love?

johnS555

My Feedback: (27)

W8ye,
In reading the posts on tapping a crank, I had a 150 Saito that sort of hit a little hard, you might say, and bent the crank, I took it over to a friends place, Larry Jenno, ( the J on the Zinger props), he lives here in Vegas, he has a milling machine that it takes 30 seconds to walk around, as he is still building engines, anyway he was going to try and straighten it, but it snapped being so hard, so he drilled and tapped it to a 1/4X28 thread, saying that props start out at 1/4 in. anyway so it won`t have to be reamed, anyway, now if it bends I just cut off a piece of allthread and make a new shaft, neato, I have ran the engine but have not put it on a plane yet..... just a line to say that it can be done.....thanks ...John
Beings he is a friend on the charges I do not know if it would be any cheaper than a new crank or not if one had to get it done at a machine shop at full price........

swixtt

i'm going to give a 14x9 3 blade a try. they are easier to get than the 15's. are MA blades OK to use? or something better out there in this size range?


thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Though MAS props are not as popular in North America as APC, they perform rather well for most applications

The MAS three blade props are very well made and they seem to have a better selection than APC