w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Do the initial running of your engine on a work bench until you can get the needles set.

A 15-7 is a lot of prop for this engine even when using 30 heli fuel. Try a 14-8 or maybe a 15-6

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Phippsa3- you are club member #586. Nice little collection of Saitos to get started right.

xtratorque

can anyone recommend a good, strong, easy to set up mount for a 125?

phippsa3

I have my 125 on a 2 piece nylon mount (inverted instillation) and it works just fine.
Good low idle and no excessive vibration.

Lovely engine

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The Great Planes medium sized mount works well with the 1.25. I cut off the ends of the rails, and cut a few pieces out of the mount to save weight. Be sure to grind off the raised lettering on the firewall contact area of the mount so that it will fit flush. I have no idea which genius decided to put the item info back there. W8YE told me about that a long time ago.

Capt Lou

JCB:

Hog Bipe is a great plane to fly. Regarding prop size, read the saito manual to see the approriate prop size. Your prop is ok based on this manual but you may want to experiment with different sizes. I use a 14x8 on my 100. Regarding the fuel, I have use Coolpower 30% heli in my planes. It appears to give my engines a little more power but it is expensive fuel and I question the cost/benefit ratio for using it. Coolpower makes a 15% four stroke fuel that also works well and is about $10 cheaper than the 30% heli. Regarding the vibration, I have only broken in my engines on a test stand. This gives you the opportunity to see the entire engine in a static operation. It will vibrate more during this break in but after this period and the adjustment of high and low needle valve, this will work itself out.

wagen017

Once the engine is run in, their is much less vibration, but that doesn't mean there will be excessive vibration. Just make sure you start leaning that Low Speed needle once you have done the initial break-in.

On their website Morgan Fuels claims Cool Power contains 100% synthetic but with "Cleancastor". Cool Power has 22% oil content, you would only need 18% though.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Regular Cool Power is 18% synthetic. Cool Power 30 heli has 22% synthetic.

Some Cool Powers are somewhere around 75%-25% synthetic-castor but they are labeled as such

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

You can get Coolpower Heli in 30/22 30/20 and aeroblend in 30/17

Havnt seen a castor in the mix though. But I havnt been around glow for long either .

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Yes,

You have to watch what you are buying when comes to Cool Power now days. They have tried to offer a Cool Power For every need.

Most often in the past when just the Term Cool Power was used, people were referring to the 18% synthetic oil variety.

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

Well, the 15x7 prop falls right in the middle of Saito's recommended props for "Scale," although i'm not sure what their definition of scale is. They recommend a 14x10 for aerobatics, which I would classify the Hog Bipe as an aerobatic airplane. The 14x10 seems like a lot of prop for this engine, especially for aerobatics. I used a 14x10 on my YS 110, and i think the YS has more power than the saito 100. The YS was being used in a speed application too. Saito's prop chart is based on Power Master 15% sport fuel, which is the main fuel that i use. However I also use Cool Power 30% Heli in my YS engines, so i thought i could use in the saito as well...I guess i'll just have to do some testing.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Testing is your best bet.

I like the 14-8 on the engine myself. The Saito 100 is actually a 105

alpal

Hi again guys..I still have a problem with my 300 t single carb. I took the one cylinder off and cleaned the carbon off the seat on the exhaust valve mostly..thanks for the tip w8ye. That cylinder had less compression than the other and often did not fire properly, just spat fuel out the exhaust. Now it is much better. The problem is I get the engine to idle and to give top revs (7500rpm on 20x10) but it doesn't like having half throttle!! If I "coax " the throttle up and down I can keep engine running, but yuou can't do that in the air! It will not run at half throttle. I am running 5% nitro maybe should be more?
The air bleed valve for low speed mixture is backwards I discovered!! screw in for rich our for lean...I have buggered about with this screw a lot, seem to have it ok, but hae a feeling this is the main cause of no half throttle. Please help!!!!

alpal

I found the answer to my own question above when I searched this forum, page 16, by William Robinson.....HUGELY helpful. Why doesn't it say anything about the mid range adjustment by turning the whole carb barrel in the Saito Manual?? Anyway it runs okay now.
I set the HS at 7600, back off rich to 7400 then settle half throttle and pinch supply to find it speeds up a bit before stopping. Great! Just as well because I couldn't adjust this any further because the retaining strap would foul the needle valve. I couldn't line up the marks because of this, so my guess is I have the mark presumably below the body hence a bit rich...but it works!!!
Now I am left with the original problem of having the right (forward) cylinder spitting fuel and not firing. I get it to go but it's not great that this happens. It is this cylinders exhaust which feeds the tank pressure.. should I swap this with the left cylinder??. This is also the cylinder I cleaned the carbon off of and improved compression.
The left cylinder smokes more than the right generally, but with a single carb one can't help it I guess? Also the left intake pipe has a dent in it, not too bad, but could be affecting things??
I am very grateful for this forum, it has already solved many of my problems!! Thanks ,, Alex

richlloyd914

This is just a personal observation, but it seems to me that Saito's recommendations for prop sizes may be a bit optimistic. Mine are run with wooden props, usually Pro-Zingers, and 15% Omega.

This is just a personal preference, but for a sport airplane (The Hog bipe would probably be considered a draggy, sport airplane) they seem to run well with a prop of 6" pitch and a diameter that will let them turn up to the mid-9000's.

Good luck with your 1.00 and your Hog.

rlmcnii on someone else's computer.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

So do you think the 30/17 would be good? They also have a propattern 30/20 Ultra High viscosity .
What viscosities work best in the Saito?
Im using the 30/22 right now just to be safe. I tend to run the upper limits of the prop range for 3D stuff.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I like the 30/22 but I may be old fashioned.

Sometimes to oil level is critical to a Saito having the hiccups.

We need more input here.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Yes Im worried about the .82 being inverted with all that oil. Seems it doesnt spit any out as it is,at least not like it did on the test stand.

Biggles2

hi , i need a little help with a rebuild on a saito FA100. The engine was damaged after a big crash. A list of parts was ordered and the rebuild insued. QUESTION...The cam gear at the front of the engine has little dot marked on it. Should the dot be at the top or the bottom when the engine is TDC? please help ..thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The dot goes to the bottom. You can affix the dot at the bottom by removing the intake lifter and insert the little top end of the pushrod down into the oil hole in the cam which locate the dot at the bottom

mike early

Some rapid-fire questions! Thanks in advance, gentlemen!

How difficult is it to replace the bearings in a Saito 125?
Corrosion is the main reason that stock bearings fail?
Castor is far better against corrosion that synthetic?
Are the ceramic bearings immune to the effects of not using castor?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It's not difficult at all if you've done it a few times before.

You will need a gear puller arrangement to remove the prop drive washer
Corrosion is the culprit
Caster is better
Not completely

mike early

Thanks sir!
Do you use ceramic bearings?
If so, do you still use castor with them?

Can you suggest a possible tool that might be able to pull the prop drive washer off?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've always used the fuel with the Synthetic - Caster combination oil package even with the ceramic bearings

rexracer

I use a standard gear puller... the type with a slotted bar, and bolts to attach it. I attach it to a small bearing seperator, which I use to grip the groove in the prop hub.