JimO

My Feedback: (7)

With the new computer radios and the engine kill button, this is a problem for many of my fellow flyers at our field. Some are using locking forceps to hold the carb line shut while fueling.

Glad to have helped

Jim

stallwart

The manual has 2001 version printed in it. I've cleaned it up and it looks like an unused 2005 version now.

The compression is amazing 8^D

Capt Lou

I crashed my FA65 and couldn't locate it in the woods. After 8 months, I just found it. It needs a new carb, intake manifold, and valve covers. I also plan to replace the front and rearing bearings. I'm cooking the engine in a crock pot with straight anti-freeze to clean all the parts. How do you remove the front and rear bearing? Also, is Horizon Hobby the best place to get parts or is there another source? Any tips on rebuilding this engine? Thanks in advance for any replies.

onecuwldood

My Feedback: (1)

Woody,

Put up another mark for BJ's engine repair. I've gotten parts from him before for other engines and even talked to him a few times over the phone. Great, knowledgeable guy!
2 Thumbs up for BJ's!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Lou,

Horizon is the best place for you to get your bearings

I get my rings from Frank Bowman


Frank can be reached at:
Frank Bowman 
1211 N. Allen 
Farmington, NM. 87401 
505-327-0696 (6 pm to 9pm MST weekdays) 
Email: [email protected]

and my Bearings from http://www.rc-bearings.com/ There are instructions on the site for changing bearings.

The cam timing is not covered but we can talk you through it.

The Saito is easy if you remove the carb and back plate - you can unfasten and remove the cylinder/piston/rod without farther complication.

The next hurdle is that the prop drive washer must be removed with a puller before you can get the crank out to change the bearings.

Capt Lou

w8ye:

Thank you for the tips. I'll start this after the engine is done cooking in antifreeze. I won't order any parts until I break down the engine to see if anything internally needs to be replaced.

Thanks again,

Lou

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I resurrected my old High Compression Saito .80 today, I stole the Saito 1.00 from my Senior TeleMaster to put on a H9 Pulse XT 60 so the Tele gets the Saito .80, I ran it on 5% WildCat Premium with a Bolly 13.5x6 and it turned 10,350 rpm, it still has it after 16 years. Its a little skinned up here and there but runs well.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I like that pulse.

That's some good figures on the 80

What happened to the '''poke berries"

My grand son-in-law and I ran a Saito 150 and a Magnum 120 down at the barn today. They started right up with a regular Dynatron

on a 12v garden tractor battery.

Chuck381

Hey all,
I have a Saito 125, broke in well, noticing low RPM's. I put the tach on it and all I am getting is 6800 A far cry from 9 or more. I am running a 16X6 APC, 15% Cool power and OS F plug. I had the 17X4 on it before and it worked great. I banged up the Edge 540 so I fixed the plane and changed the prop for a little more spped but I can't get any high RPMs at all. I tried a smaller prop (15X6 APC) and she still flew around like a fat pig! I am going to try to turn the HS idle to 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 as I read in a seperate blog to see if it will bring the RPMS to in the 8000 range at least! I checked the valves and reset to factory settings tonight, ANy help would be appreciated! By the way I am at sea level! Thanks

Chuck

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Chuck, forget the numbers of turns on the highSpeed needle, they tell you nothing, set it by how the engine runs. Put a tach on it, and start slowly leaning the High Speed needle and watch the rpms increase. At some point the engine will sound labored and the rpm will decrease slightly, immediately go rich a little. Don't rush the leaning of the needle.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, even Geri noticed how strong it ran, I had to show off and idle it at 1,700 just for kicks. I actually had to richen it a little to get it to idle under 2,000 rpm.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Hobbsy,

Sounds real good. That's nice that the 80 runs so good after this many years.

When I ran the 150 today I first had a APC 15-8 which definitely not enough prop. We then found a 16-8 on the 182. the 16-8 sounded correct. It really had a low idle with the APC 16-8. I was running Rich's Brew 15%.

Chuck381

Hobbsy,
Thats what I did this evening, still only tached@6800. I checked the HS needle valve and it is approximately 1 3/4 turns out. I even tried a new batch of fuel. After I adjusted the valves I did notice that it is not a smooth.... by that I mean the plane tend to shake more BUT if it has more power I know when it is inthe air she will be just fine. Ok so I will check it out tomorrow at the field but if I am still only @ 68-7000 on the tach, what would be the next step to achieve the correct RPM's? Appreciat the help!

Chuck

Shack

Quote
Have run 3 tanks thru my test- stand mounted 82a; adjusted all according to instructions. Max rpm's are 8800. Transition is very good. It will idle scary-slow at 1700. I expected about 9800 rpm max. I'm running an APC 14-6 Pattern prop; am I expecting too much?[]


The Sr. Slo Motion is finished & flies great. The APC 14-6 still turned only 8800 rpm on the plane; the vertical was rather poor. Took the advice and put an APC 14-4W on. She still tached only 8900 rpm, but vertical is now unlimited. I'm happy.


Shack
# 580

evansh

I would appreciate any comments re my Saito 100
Great engine with probably 15 hours running on 10% nitro
A fellow club member noticed some vibration and noise that i had taken for airframe noise
Stripped engine and found some wear on rear bearing and big end - no damage to cranpin
Going to change both bearings and conrod ( when i can get one )
In meantime am thinking of bushing the big end with a phosphor bronze or gunmetal bush
Was planning on approx 30 thou wall thickness and boring out conrod for a 1 thou interference fit.
Then finally bore bush for approx 0.5 thou clearance on crankpin
I am a reasonably useful model engineer ( ex Steelworks Fitter / Turner - albeit 40 years ago ! )
If any one has done similar i would be interested
JHE

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I have 17 Saitos at the moment and have them with bronze bushings, (two I think) and the rest with no bushing so far none has ever even gotten a little bit looser than when they came. What lube are you running? A half thousandth would awfully loose, you might as well keep the one that is in it.

AJsToyz

Shack,

Sounds like it has some breaking in to do. My 72 will turn a 14x4w @ 9800 but thats max , I fly it between 9400 - 9500 and it runs great !!

Andy

Mikecam

Well I'm the proud new owner of a Saito 125. Just reading about the letter punched in the motor mount. Mine is the letter A and it came with tools. Am I getting a engine that has been in the box for awhile, I asked the hobby shop if it was a new engine because I was told they do not come with the tools anymore and they said it was but now I'm not sure. Bought the 125 because of this tread. Thanks for the help. Mikecam

PS Should I check the valves right out of the box.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The "A" is the first one.

It is undoubtedly a new in the box engine but it has probably been in the hobby shop for a year or more.

Mine is an "A" and and I bought it used last year this time. A friend has three "A" engines. He bought them all used more than a year ago. We like our 125s very well.

I'm thinking the new one with the larger fins is a "B".

We need some confirmation about this from someone with a big fin 125. Or better yet some comparative pictures of the early cylinder versus the present cylinder.

Mikecam

Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm just wanting to hear that I have a good engine. If I can get a B model and it has the updates for the same price then should I do that? Also should that make the A cheaper? Just wondering. I like the idea of getting the tools for free so if the engines are no different then I'll stick with the A. Thanks

RC Specialties

w8ye,

Here is a pic of the "A". I don't have a pic of the "B" for a comparison. I doubt there is any difference in performance. The bigger fins would be nice for better cooling.

Jim

evansh

Thanks
The original conrod does not have a bush. Was planning on trying to bush it.
Have always used 10% - 15% nitro ALWAYS 20% oil and have consistently run rich. ( at least 200rpm off peak )
I have also always used afer run oil
On stripping engine it was found to be lovely and clean with no sign of rust - except for some pitting corrosion on flanks of valve rocker suports
Rear bearing showed some wear and the big end was badly worn
Will try as planned and keep pin clearance tighter as you suggest
I will post 'what happened'
Thanks Again

AJsToyz

Jim,

Have run the 1.25 with and with out the velocity stack ?? Was just wondering if it changed the rpm's.

Andy

bawls

6800RPM with a 16x6 APC on a new 125? I'd suspect a problem with the tachometer.

RC Specialties

Andy,

I ran mine with the stack but did not do a comparison run without it. Earlier in this thread someone stated that the stack reduces rpm a little. I think I will pull it off and try it again.

Jim