Bipe Flyer

What number am I, Bill?

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

BF:

Go [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3306814/anchors_3632826/mpage_39/key_/anchor/tm.htm#3632826]here[/link] and check posts 972 and 973, this is on page 39 of this thread.

Post 972 is a numeric list, 973 is in alphabetic order.

You can find your name in either list.

Bill.

PS: Sorry, I really thought you were already on. Just put you in as number 151. wr.

Bipe Flyer

Gee, and I waited to post at just the right moment so that I could be #149.

Just kidding, thanks Bill.

gwulle

Jimmie;
Thanks for the reply on the props. I will give a couple of them a try. Again;Thanks

Gaines

solafein

Bill,

I have never run after run oil. I use fuels with castor in them, I fly almost every day and my selection of planes wasn't all that great. I now have more planes and motors than I really want to fly on a weekly basis and some of them need rebuilding. Any air tool oil was recommended by fuelman, on post 140. The pipe specifically recommends the Marvel brand in post #212. I have a couple of gallons of Snap-On brand IM-6 air tool oil in my roll-away. Every time I mention air tool oil to my rep., he gives me another bottle. Will this specific oil work?

Thanks

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Sol:

The Snap-On oil should work fine. Wish my S-O man was so generous, I always bought the Chicago Pneumatic branded oil, almost asll my air toolss were/are CP brand. I ended up using ATF in my air tools. Couldn't tell any difference in tool life or performance, and the ATF was a lot less expensive.

I'm sure you've seen many of my posts condemning the use of pure synthetic oil, even with the castor blend I use AR oil.

Bill.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

If you spent some money on his truck, he probably would be! Haw!!

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

I'd like to wish all Club Saito members a Merry Christmas!

And to thank you for having the most polite, courteous and helpful thread on RC-U!
[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]
John L. Konneker

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Thank you, John.

And I also want to wish all concerned the very merriest of CHRISTmases, and the Lord's blessings on all our houses.

Bill.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I wish all a Merry Christmas from Geri and I here in Virginia, I might recieve my 1.25 today, if not in a day or two.

gjeffers

Merry Christmas guys and a happy New Year to all
will order the 125 with my bonus

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

HO HO HO Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year and Holidays for all.

Enjoy,

Jim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

[b]HO HO HO indeed.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Merry Christmas to all!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just talked to my LHS in south western Va., he got four 1.25s, one GK, mine, and three silver ones, all sold in hours. I'll get mine about next Friday.

solafein

I guess I'll chime in with the happy ho-ho. I will add that we should all be extra mindful of those who are less fortunate out there. This season, no matter what the world wants to spin onto it or timetable differences, is about the celebration of the ultimate gift. Please be cautious this next week as it just gets crazier on the new year, and use a designated driver.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Hope everyone's stocking was stuffed, but good, with lots of airplane goodies today. I didn't get one single airplane related item, as far as models go. I did get a great book on bombers, tons of pics, from Sopwith 1-1/2 strutter to the B-2, all nationalities. All that's all right, though, I'm in good shape as far as plane stuff goes, and I got some great other things, and best of all, enjoyed watching my kids having a good Christmas.

Now, back to the subject here. Bill Robison, got a question for you. I have a new .91S had it about 6 months but haven't run it yet. I'm putting it on a GP DR-1 and I took the carb off to reverse it so my needle adjuster would point the way I needed. I noticed that the spray bar has a split in it , on the intake side (you can't see it by looking in the carb throat). This split runs longitudinally and is uniform, and tapers closed on the end of the bar that sticks out in the carb throat. The smaller bar (idlebar) actually fits inside the larger bar instead of having a small gap between them like all my other carbs do.

Is this the way it's supposed to be, or do I need to see about sending the thing off to Saito? Like I said, it's never been run, and I've never noticed this on any other carb, and it is facing the side where the intake pipe attaches to the carb. Is it a new style of metering system, or is it broke? I tried to make a picture of it, but was unable to get a clear shot, so I included a sketch. Thanks for any input. Ken

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some Saitos are made this way. I have two 91's with me and they are made as you described. Some other Saitos have the low speed needle clear of the high speed tube with no slit.. Super Tigers have a eyebrow slit like this.

On, some models, the low speed needle goes over the high speed tube and some it goes inside the high speed tube?

rfan_1

My Feedback: (2)

Hello,
I am pasting a post that I have on another thread talking about Saito engines on the GP Giant U-Can-Do:
<snip>
I have a Saito 180 installed in my GUCD and I am battling the siphoning problem. I'm still in the process of breaking in the engine and getting the carb set right. If I hook the fuel feed line directly to the carb it floods, bigtime. So now I have an Iron Bay regulator installed and tried the cranckcase tap at first for the pressure feed. This was way too much pressure and caused the former that holds the tank to break when the tank really swelled up. Now I have the pressure line hooked up to the muffler tap, but the pressure is insufficient because when I run the engine up to max rpm, it will hang there for a few seconds, then drop 1000 rpm and hold there. Richening the mixture doesn't seem to help. And of course it runs really ragged at idle with the overly rich setting. The fuel line from the regulator to the carb is less than 3 inches as the regulator is mounted at the top of the channel. This is pretty frustrating because I've just about run out of ideas and I'm about ready to knock the floor out below the tank and lower it.
<snip>

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

RFan ( #100 )

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Buy a Fourmost "Tee" from you hobby source. Put the Tee in the crankcase vent line. One end goes to the tank pressure side through a Fourmost check valve. The other end goes through a needle valve that bleeds most of the crankcase pressure off.

This way you can control the amount of pressure build up in your tank.

Fourmost tees http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG846&P=7

Fourmost check valve http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG850&P=7

Fourmost needle valve http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG868&P=7

Or Tower Remote needle valve http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJB26&P=7

Enjoy,

Jim

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

KH:

Saito, in their two needle carbs use either of two spray bars, and either of two LS "Needles," one of which isn't a needle at all.

Looking at the first picture, the upper two show the sleeve metering LS, the lower two show the needle that actually goes into the spray bar for regulation of the fuel. The sleeve works just like, and is adjusted the same as the needle system. In the picture the sleeve type is an FA-72, the needle type is an FA-80. These two carbs can be used one in place of the other with no difference in the engine run.

The next picture shows the different spray bars. On the left we have the needle type again, and a spray bay that injects all the fuel from the open end. Again, the FA-80 carb. On the right you see the "Slit" type spray bar, that you have. But unlike yours, this one is sleeve metering.

In either case, whether sleeve or needle metering, the LS adjustment is done by restricting the spray port, effectively decreasing its size.

So which engine has what LS and what spray bar? I have not seen any of the big block engines, the FA-120 and larger, without the slit in the spray bar. And I've not seen an FA-80 or smaller that did have the slit. From the FA-82 up to the FA-100 seem to come with either.

The LS adjuster? There doesn't seem to be any pattern. I've seen most sizes with examples of both. Maybe it's determined by the weekday of production.

Bill.

coveredup

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone know the gap size for the valves on a saito 72?
I left the box with all the goodies up in Dallas with my parents [:@]

What is the name of the tool i need from the hardware store to adjust the valves?

thanks

Bipe Flyer

The manual says from .03mm to .10mm (.002" to .004").

It's called a feeler gauge.

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Bill, thanks for the info, I was also PM'd by someone else with some of the same info, but you expanded it a lot. It's good to know my new engine isn't broke, gonna try to break it in in a week or so..

jlkonn

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,
A Saito question for once!

I got to fly the 1.00 for the first time today since getting it back.
I must not have an ear for these 4 strokes.
OK...if it's too lean at idle it will gradually slow down and quit.
If it's too rich at idle it will gradaully slow down and quit?
Help!
JLK